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I figured you had probably cleaned them while apart ,just thought i would mention it. I usually start with the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated and adjust it until its running the best usually end up between 2 and 3 turns out. There is a tool that makes this easier Amazon sells several versions this is the one they recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Adjustment-Screwdriver-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B0BMTG92J7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UOBFMYX0H15D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TkpaU_CuOz3g4qBIsE0V3kMWh2LbJ8B--hRZEtRfDG6FSmQaIMAT_bCclJwC3rMnlvUzYzqd3kfdzlVuSTgdmgMuzklKuPmVjr-telZpWZ7oufONGBcix2tI-Rwb2C_ziP_sMT2DT7g3C8s0XdkPuIEQC912TUXCxnpQSyz9Bia0ezgQQFdmCzIAmYA24MGkC7qF6doGOWJFnrzv44euu_ifx_hXcVP3zMKQndygysd3y0i9_T3lYxf6MyfyiRp5xSS5B4n_kc2vi5fQWTjEfBK5ahg-fwd4528zGtdYGuw.dK0eY_t2Q-uOOZ41B5km52z_Z3V1Rmb8ydWD4HfRYh0&dib_tag=se&keywords=atv+adjusting+screwdriver&qid=1712854997&sprefix=atv+adjusting+screwdriver%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-2

Nothing beats a cigarette, Wish I still smoked The 02 sensor was bad (threads were stripped and it fit loosely in the housing but wasn't the real problem. Can disconnect both 02 sensors and no change. Throttle cable not really adjustable and IAC is integral to the throttle body and not serviceable.

It's likely that the O2 sensor wasn't defective. It quite likely was just struggling to control the mixture within acceptable limits and so reported it as not working. That's quite common with O2 sensors. They are one of the most miss-diagnosed components. I'd be checking the throttle cable adjustment, the fuel flow and pressure, the IAC operation(might operate on 5volts so be careful), and the spark plug gap and condition.

You have power to the relay, so now you need to check the relay is getting power to activated it, and that it has an earth on it's activation windings. If that side of the relay is operating, you need to check whether the power is getting from the relay to the pump, and that the pump has an earth. If you tell us what year and model this is I'll try to check in a manual how the pump and relay are actually wired. It's possible that the pump, or the relay, are powered and then get switched by connecting an earth to one or both of them.

Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??

Not sure about the dial thingy but it should have a knurled thumbscrew on the side somewhere to adjust the ilde speed, and the idle mixture screw is at the front underneath and hidden up a tube. Did you check the rubber inlet manifold wasn't split, or that it doesn't have an air leak somewhere ? Tight valves can make them hard to start and not idle well too.

Welcome everyone! Sorry for the community being down these last few days. We ran into server issues with some database corruption. It took a few days to restore everything.

The fan gets switched on when the oil temperature gets high. The fuel pump gets turned on when you first turn the key but then switches off unless it's getting a pulse from the cdi. The pulse from the cdi is the same pulse that fires the ignition coil, so if you have spark, you have the required pulse to operate the fuel pump relay, you just need to ensure it's getting to the pump control relay. When wires have no continuity, or have high resistance, it's almost right at the end of the wire where it crimps into the metal terminal, it either corrodes or breaks the wires inside the insulation. Wires do sometimes break if they have been chafing for a long time on something and worn right through the electrical tape, insulation, and then the copper wire, but that's easy to spot by the frayed insulation.

Not much to the throttle body that you can access. There are only 2 little holes where are the good stuff is located that cannot be serviced. Just pulled out the entire throttle body and cleaned it (wasn't really dirty) but don't expect it to do much.

I will definitely consider voting for him….although I haven’t spent much time reading up on him. I won’t vote for a radical, even if they are saying things just to cater to a particular group to secure their vote. It’s either him or my vote will be not to vote. Kind of wish they would go ahead and throw Trump in jail and get it over with so we can move on because I would definitely vote for Haley. And yes, I realize that most of the stuff being thrown at Trump is political….but his behavior after the last election and the classified docs thing is a non starter for me. The classified docs thing is criminal. And yes, Biden is a criminal in that regard too, that just means they should be sharing a cell. Doesn’t mean they cancel each other out.

OK, now that we are through all the BS and I simply purchased the service manual, let me tell you the problem with the machine while I dig into the manual... The engine starts fine but does not idle. You have to keep pumping the throttle to keep it alive. You can go fast down the road and she goes, but idle no. It did have a bad 02 sensor but fixing that had no effect. In fact, unplugging the 02 sensor does not make a difference. Have not unplugged both - will do that tomorrow. The problem with the 850i is that all your sensors are in the throttle body and are not serviceable (and it is not a cheapo piece). Will probably have to start ripping the engine apart?

I have yet to find a free manual. The TM109919 is for all years so the 2014 would be fine. So again, what are my choices (cant find a freebie): 1. Post a bunch of worthless posts just be be cheap and get the manual for free 2. Buy a manual on eBay for about $30.00 (a CD) 3. Buy a download from some other stranger for $25 4. Donate $29 to you folks. I think I will choose #4 as I need it now, Maybe you folks will have the parts manual too and make it double worth while.

Good for you. Perseverance always wins. Giving up never does. You normally just check and top up the reservoir bottle. If you suspect it's using water you take the radiator cap off when the engine's cold, you top the radiator right to the very top, then you put the cap back on. As the engine heats the level in the overflow bottle will go up, and when it cools the level will drop. It's a good idea to familiarise yourself where the two levels are and always check they are moving from cold to hot. If the radiator gets a small hole or blown gasket the level in the overflow bottle will probably change with use, but sometimes the radiator sucks air in instead of drawing water from the bottle, then the level stops changing from cold to hot. Glancing at the level before starting, then again after it's warmed up, is a good way to spot any problems at an early stage.

Hi again everyone! It has been a while since we have been on and complete change of direction for us. Instead of going out and finding nudist campgrounds we opened one and have already filled 40 seasonal sites for this year. we will see how the season goes.

Yup, the setting in the book is just to get it running, then it needs adjusting while it's running, and warmed up.. A tool is a huge help.

I always like reading these motocross articles, thanks for sharing.

👍 You are welcome, glad i could help.

I think this one also covers the Kodiak: yfm400fwa{M}-2000 copy.pdf

I know what you mean i was just getting used to the bells and whistles on the 11 year old one and now i have one that beeps when i take my eyes off the road and turns off the car at a red light along with helping me steer and stop, all these safety features are going to cause me to wreck just trying to figure out what the car is trying to do.

Update. After taking the carb back off and closer inspection I noticed that the throttle plate was opening to much before the main needle jet even moved any. I have attached a picture. The linkage arm that connects the two had so much play in it that one was opening and the other wasn't doing anything. You can see that I have the idle adjustment screw all the way in and it still wouldn't idle and the choke plunger didn't have any affect when trying to start it. Anyway, By putting a carb kit on it does nothing for this linkage problem so I went ahead and bought a new cheap carb. Put it on, works great. The air/fuel screw now works and the choke and idle screw actually does something. This type of thing can be a gremlin to find. Thanks Mech and Gwbarm.

Good work Admin. I'd give it a "like" except... "like"s not working.. haha.

Ha.. And the price we like too ! Good score..

good morning from finland

If it’s blowing black that usually a sign of running rich , if the smoke has a bluish tinge to it it’s oil burning

What ever it is, it's always best to try adjusting the mixture first because that is (even the hard to get at adjusters), the easiest thing to try. It checks the mixture screw is changing the mixture enough too, which is a good thing to check. If winding the screw a full turn each way didn't have a dramatic effect, then it would be a guide/helpful in the diagnosis.

Start the bike and operate the choke.. You should be able to hear if it's working, or doing nothing. The choke only sucks fuel up when the throttle's closed. Soon as you open the throttle the vacuum drops in the choke circuit and it doesn't lift the fuel right to the top of the venturi where the discharge for the choke is. So it could be on and only go rich when you throttle off hard. It does seem unusual to have fluffy dry soot that fast. That's definitely rich though.. Oil looks wet black. You have got fresh fuel haven't you ? And a good grade ? The compression is probably meant to be nearer 175 Lb but that's warm and with a full open throttle and cranking at the right speed. If it comes up to it's 125 in the first couple of compression strokes it's a good sign. If it has to be cranked a lot and slowly creeps up with each compression stroke it's a bad sign. You could put a teaspoon of oil down the plug hole, give it a quick spin with the starter or pull start to distribute the oil, then do a compression check. If the oil raises the compression a lot it points to rings, not valves. Having a tight or leaking valve doesn't normally cause dry fluffy sooty spark plug. Leaking rings doesn't normally cause that sort of soot either.. Only fuel does that. Some bikes say what size the jets are in the parts manuals. You can look that up online, or in a service manual.

Dry black soot sure sounds like too much fuel. The mixture adjustment doing nothing is always a sign of something wrong in a carb. Since it's running good, no mention of missing or hard start etc I'd doubt the ignition is at fault. Check it's got a reasonably fat blue spark. Ignition systems with resistor caps or leads can have a skinny spark, but it should be blue. If it looks yellow it's a bad sign. If the soot is only on the porcelain tip it might pay to try a hotter plug. If it lost it's spark suddenly it might have a wet plug, but it wouldn't have black soot. I'd make sure the fuel tap was good and not filling the sump with fuel. And if it's got a vacuum controlled tap check that isn't letting fuel into the vacuum line. Then I'd start looking at the mixture. Choke's going right off, check that first because the choke only works when the throttle's shut so they run ok with a stuck on choke, till you throttle off, then air-filter, intake piping isn't crushed or blocked(mouse nest), carb breather tubes, fuel tank breather. It might be that the richness is intermittent, or caused by heat or the time run. So check the carb breathers, and tank's not presurising. Then It'd be off with the carb for another look. Check the float height(can be done before pulling the carb off) and that it isn't sinking, check the idle mixture screw tip and the seat the screw goes into for damage, check the float needle seat is sealed to the body, the breather drillings are clear, all the drillings are clear, the jets are the right size, the slide needle is the right one and attached to the slide, the slide isn't sticking. Reassemble and check the idle mixture is responsive. If it isn't then there's still something wrong in the carb.

You are aware that America is not a democracy we are a constuitional republic.

I haven't been following the small SUV market, and don't even know who has what models for sale. I buy used and abused, fixing what's broke and driving like I have no cares and all the time in the world. It's cheaper that way.

My newest vehicle is a 2004 F150 with 300K miles. My daily driver is a 1987 F150. I'd head to the hinterlands with either one, but I trust the 87 more. The CVT transmissions seem too much like wizardry to me, but I prefer the older technology that does not depend on computers. I've worked on vehicles and then a computer manufacturer doing repairs. They're just too delicate AND there's the sensors, wiring, and programming that can fail. Check the prices/availability on a replacement transmission before ya think about buying a car that has one. The people that bought electric cars are choking at the price of a replacement battery. As I've told owners of some cars, insure the hell out of it, leave the keys in the ignition and a dollar bill on the seat. Ya better hope ya don't come back and find two dollars on the seat.

I just had a Suzuki lt 230 quad runner do pretty much the same thing. Riding and bouncing around stirred up junk in the gas tank. I flushed it and it was fine for a couple weeks. Started doing it again , so I flushed the tank again and got more junk out of it. This time I put a inline filter in it. No more issues.

I have actually, but I only buy ones with a high level of good reviews. I have found that on more than one occasion where I’ve had a part failure from something purchased on Amazon, I should have read the reviews!

I know this post is a couple months old, but have you had good luck with these carbs? I had bought a cheap one on Amazon awhile back for a mower, and it seemed ok for the short time I had it...🤷🏼‍♂️

What's up everyone?!

Welcome, and good luck with your Bayou, let us know if we can help.

Howdy y'all. New here and excited to get a dead Bayou 220 back on the trails.

Welcome to quadcrazy, there is a lot of info here.

Welcome, sounds like your in the right place, we love to help get projects back on the trails.

Being new in the quad family it is nice to know there are places like this I can learn and get help

Hi all, I am new to this site and joined because I am always looking for help and ideas for my restoration projects I do. Also just enjoy riding around in my free time

I think you will enjoy, the site, a lot of good information here, sportmans are nice , good luck with it.

Hello, Just came across this forum, always nice to find one that is still active. I'm a farmer with more projects than time to do them, always seem to have some form of three wheeler or quad in the shop. I have a (probably bad) habit of buying old ATVs and ATCs that need work for cheap so I'm always looking for some kind of information or advice on how to keep these old beauties running.

@kp3004x4 - We'll need a lot of help, I'm sure! I've worked on bikes and small engines, but not on something that I haven't taken apart and was this complicated!

Yeah - it will be fun! Every tube and wire on it seems to be disconnected. But, it is a project for my son and myself so no matter what happens, it is worth it. Once I get the manual, we'll see if we can figure it all out.

Its always a challenge putting something back together that you didn't take apart, but with the repair manual and the helpful people on this site its very doable, im doing the same with a Yamaha.

Hi! New owner of a Suzuki King Quad 300 that needs a lot of work to get going. Former owner ripped it apart to try to fix something and never got it together again. Now, I'm going to see if I can get it going and have some fun with it. Steve

Hello everyone. New here and trying to learn everything I can. Bought my first atv this weekend. 94 Polaris sportsman 400. It needs a little work but only has 540 miles! Excited to learn from you all. Adam

Welcome Larry, great place to learn, really good people , always willing to help and share experiences.

My wife said the same but about 2!!!!!

Thanks for the warm welcome, Gwbarm. Happy to be here! My fleet at present is as follows: 2000 Kodiak 400 - runs, good condition 2005 Predator 90 - runs, great condition 1985 LT230GE - project 1987 Trail Boss 250 - project 1998 Sportsman 6x6 - project 1999 ranger 6x6 - project