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DirtDemon

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Posts posted by DirtDemon

  1. Look at the oil, check for metal shavings, do a compression test, make sure it is not already warmed up before you get there, you want to see how it acts when it is cold and after it warms up. Wobble the wheels back and forth to check for bad bearings or ball joints. Check the brakes.

  2. Agreed, the 400EX is not the same caliber as the new 450's. These new fourstrokes are quite a bit more performance oriented than previous ones. It would take some more serious work and probably some added displacement before you can start running with the 450's. On the other hand, the newer motors are more tempermental and less reliable.

  3. Check all the simple things First....Spark Plug...Compression..AIR FILTER...CDI Maybe....

    Is there a Fuel Pump on that????

    No, but I do believe they have an accelerator pump, there should be a black plastic cover on the side of the carb, if you take that off, you can see a little off white, plastic mechanism that pushes down on a metal plunger shaft which has a rubber boot at the bottom of it. Make sure every thing looks to be moving ok and check to make sure the metal plunger isn't sticking. I would still check the simple stuff first like MWKE mentioned, then move to the carb.

  4. Is it smarter to buy a used 400ex or 250. From what I have read they feel similar and the 250r would handle better because of its lighter weight . I also have read that It is a lot more maintnence to upkeep a 2 stroke.

    The EX is going to be more versitile in that you can ride it fast or you can ride it slow. Like Stoopidbot said, you have to keep them on the pipe, or you will load up and foul plugs. As far as maintenance goes, the EX may go longer before it needs any thing, but the 250R will cost less in parts as it has no timing chain, no cams and no valves. Both are great bikes IMO.

  5. I still don't know. Did you read the specs on the tranny? It's not a 5 speed, it has L-H-N-R-P

    I think that is a mistake, it has a clutch, and if you read the reviews below, one of the owners said it has a manual transmission. All in all, looks like a decent machine, long travel suspension, long multi-rate shocks with big rezzies, decent tires, alluminum heel guards, oversize bumper, what appears to be braided steel brake lines, and thin wall polished steel wheels. This thing looks to be better equiped than most other 450's. It even has a better warranty. The only thing that seems bad about it is that it is made in China.

  6. Check the spark plug boot, it should actually screw on the the wire, and sometimes the wire wears away and loses contact with the screw in the wire end of the boot. Take the boot off, then strip away a little of the insulation on the coil wire until you see fresh wire, then screw the boot back on. This is one of the cheapest and easiest scenarios.

  7. Wanna donate those shocks to me:)? 450r ones

    Sorry, I don't have any 450R shocks, I only brought them up because alot of people put them on their 250R, I guess most people assume they are the best choice for a cheap upgrade because they are the same brand. I have the stock 250R shocks now and I need something a little newer and more durable to be able to withstand the stress from the longer a-arms.

  8. I just ordered a set of Burgard +2 a-arms for the 500R. I also got a brand new set of front shocks from an '08 KFX 450. I think they will work a bit better than Honda 450R shocks because they are only about about 1/4" longer than stock 250R shocks and the Kawi is supposed to have softer suspension than the Honda 450.

    I also picked up a new chopsaw, air/hydraulic pipe bender, and drill-press. These will make finnishing the Blazer and the chair-trike alot easier.

  9. Very cool projects!

    The Blazer is freakin' awesome. Definitely want to hear more about it!

    Thanks, I am hope fully going to get the tools and parts needed to get that thing in the mud this weekend. Still alot of work to be done, I have to find a tranny to that will bolt up to the 350. I also need to make a few modifications to the crossmembers to allow for the driveline to drop so I can hook the front end up. I also need to replace the rotor, bearings and outer u-joint on the front passenger side. I also need to weld in a roll cage, that is why I cut the top off, I figured it would be easier to put a cage in without the top in the way.

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