DirtDemon

Wouldn't be easier to fab a new mount rather than altering the shock.

I guess I could have made that a little clearer. That is what I meant, cut off the old mount from the frame and make new ones. I wouldn't even think of welding on the shock itself, the heat could very easily ruin the shock.

Thanks for responding, the guy i bought it from said that the float valve on the carb could be bad, but would be cheap to replace. Is this what you are talking about? Also, if i have to replace the valve, will i have to take off the entire carb?

You may be able to loosen the clamps on either side of the carb and twist it in place to remove the float bowl. If you can get the float bowl off without removing the carb, then you can get to the float valve. It is a tiny cylindrical object with a pointed rubber tip attatched to the floats near the pivot pin. Look at the diagram that atv mechanic posted for you it should help you identify the parts you are looking for. Have you tried tapping the side of the float bowl, the floats could just be stuck. If you do have to remove the bowl, look around in side a bit an make sure every thing looks clean and in good order.

A stuck float could also explain the steady flow of gas out of the carb.

I missed the part about fuel flowing out. Guess I should go to bed now. Most likely a stuck float causing that, get your screwdriver.

The angry look.....lol, that's why I don't want like wife to watch me ride. The last time I ate it, she had to drive me to the doctor, she was none too happy, I wan't even alowed to whine.

Got my KFX 450 shocks today. They are only about 3/8" longer than the stockers, but the top of the shock is too wide for the upper mount. No big deal though, I anticipated that, I will just have to cut the old ones off and weld on new ones.

The fuel line should connect to a fitting that comes out of the side of the carb just above the float bowl, probably toward the rear of carb. If you have it hooked up correctly, and it still isn't getting fuel, try tapping on the side of the float bowl with a screwdriver handle, as the floats could be stuck. If it still doesn't work, you may need to disassemble the carb and clean it. If there was any fuel residue left in the carb, it may have gummed up the carb. There is also the possibility that the carb was never the issue. Do a compression test, just to see what it reads.

I came up to fast on a jump the wrong way and I couldn't stop in time. You no what happens if you're not on the gas while going over a jump.

I think they call that as* over tea kettle or something. How did you manage to get your legs between, the front tires and the nerfs, that must have hurt a little.

Nice pics, love those broad open turns, no brakes just more gas!!!

God I love Honda's 500cc motor

Me too, I just wish it came with a counterballancer.

Do the brakes work any better with the double lines? It definately looks cooler.

Meet me here DirtDevil!!!!

We can open it up!!!!

That is quite possible, Oregon is not too far. Hopefully I will have the Lazytrike finnished by then.

Posted a short video of the 500 R in the ATV video section.

Exactly, the clutch on my R doesn't like to disengage completely because the cable shaft and push rod are a little worn, and if I don't give it a little gas when I put it in gear it dies. I should have fixed it last time I had it apart, but I was impatient and didn't want to wait for new parts to be shipped. Besides it is getting better as the clutch plates wear a bit.

Thanks Bot.

That is solid advise Bot, especially for someone who does not ride regularly. I think the guys are right, you need to disassemble and inspect and clean the carb. Make sure you COMPLETELY disassemble the carb. There are some carbs that are more complex than others and have several small passages that can become clogged and cause problems. Also make sure the fuel petcock is clear.

Pull off the clutch cover and inspect the clutch, I think the springs that keep the clutch from engaging may be worn or broken or something. It sounds like when you put it in gear, the clutch is engaging too soon and killing the motor.

I will say this just incase someone gets confused, I know it is an automatic, it has a centrifugal clutch, not a manual clutch.

To start, I would visually inspect the starter gear and flywheel. If you can't see anything obvious just by looking at it, then turn it over while it is exposed and see if you notice anything. Pull the spark plug boot off so it doesn't start while you have the side cover off. The problem could also be timing related, check the flywheel key, if it sheared off then the plug will spark at the wrong time and could cause combustion too early and stop the motor from turning.

Looks good man, I just got some Burgard +2 arms for my R the other day, just waiting on the shocks now. Let us know how they work out for you.

Look through this site, you may find some helpful info, it says they are supposed to have a shop manual soon.

Tecate Connection

I believe service honda can get hondaline parts. If they can't find it, or our resident trike expert MWKE can't help you then I have another idea as a last resort. I don't want to send you to another forum if I don't have to, but I know a guy who can probably find what you need.

I have had the LTR wide open in top gear, I suppose that is somewhere in the mid 70's. According to my math, the 500R is good for about 95mph, I don't know if she will ever see that though, at least not with me on it. Well, maybe in the dunes.

If there was gas in it all winter while it was sitting, then the fuel could have gelled up and clogged up the carb, take it off, take it apart completely, and clean it. However, you say that if you start it in gear, you can ride it. If it runs good when you do that, it probably isn't your carb. Maybe something electrical, is there a switch that is supposed to keep it from starting in gear? Have you always been able to start it while it was in gear, or did that start when you started having this problem?

I assume that thing has a CVT transmission, if so, the problem could be in the clutch. It would really help if you could be a little more specific describing the problem.

Compression could be an issue for sure, do a test. Also check the timing. If you have a service manual, it should tell you how to check the ignition components with a digital multimeter. If every thing looks ok with those, check valve clearances and the timing chain.

Thanks bro, I hope to have it done by the time summer gets here.