DirtDemon

Well, I realized I should have done a bit more research before purchasing those KFX 450 shocks, it just occured to me to check the setup on an actual KFX 450. Just as I thought, I had to move the lower shock mounts out about 2" in order to get the leverage ratio on the shock about the same as it would be on the Kawi. The last thing I wanted to do was hack up my brand new a-arms, but it turned out ok. Definately not as pretty as they were, but I had some black appliance epoxy sitting around, so at least I could touch up the new mounts so they match the rest of the arms.

Is the choke a butterfly flap that opens and closes? If so, does it rest in the open position? Try disconnecting the electric choke after it warms up, and make sure it stays open. See if that helps.

If you don't have one, get a manual. You will need torque specs when you go to put that thing back together. I'm not sure what you mean by "using a wheel puller on drive drive side"

DO NOT stick a screwdriver between the fingers on the clutch center to hold it still while you loosen or tighten the clutch center nut. I made that mistake once, it sucked. That would only matter if you need to replace the center or the basket. I just thought I would mention that just in case you need to replace more than just the springs,plates and discs.

Tell me more about the high revving, what exactly is it doing?

By the way, I moved this thread into the appropriate forum.

All true, octane is resistivity to combustion. Meaning higher octane fuels don't pre-ignite under higher compression. While you don't need to run race fuel you will find advantages. The biggest one being that your motor will run cooler. High octane fuels burn slower and cooler than lower octane fuels. As opposed to lower octane fuels which burn quicker and hotter. However, for optimal performance, I have heard the lowest octane fuel that does not pre-detonate is best.

First check the idle screw and make sure the cable adjustments(top of the carb and at the other end of the cable) are not holding the throttle open. If that doesn't work, take the carb off, leave the cable connected and look inside while you work the throttle in and out. Make sure that the slide closes all the way. If it has sat for a long while, then I would suggest cleaning the carb, some of the fuel could have gummed up partially blocking the jets, this would cause a lean condition and cause the machine to idle high. If that is the case, you need to fix it, lean is very bad.

Good deal, we are here to help whenever you need something.

I have been getting "the page you are looking for could not be found" it just started today. It is not the connection, the search engine give me alternatives. I can usually click the back button on the browser and I get it on the second or third try, but some pages I just can't get too.

I am glad to hear you like it, I'm sure you will able to get comfy with it easy enough. You don't have to feel too bad about it either, it's not like you got rid of the trikes. Just let them know that you still love them and don't let them see how much you like the electric start.

That is very tempting. I will definately consider it.

wooooooot all about the chair yo bahah.

Yes, I still get a kick out of it myself every time I look at it. Now, if I could only find the time to finnish it.

They guy said it worked. He said that the Banshee fronts are only 5/8" I think he said longer than the 400ex rear. Not something I would personally try but hey...to each his own, right?

Indeed, everyone has thier own preferences, who knows, maybe he only weighs 85lbs, then he would need a softer ride.

It would probably be best to just replace the gaskets, they are cheap. Did you find any residue in the carb?

Welcome Tink, I too am from western WA. Bonney Lake to be exact. Hope you enjoy the site, we are here to help anytime you need something. Being so close, I have to wonder, do you ever ride at Stradeline?, formerly Thurston County ORV.

WOODS, I live in western Washington, thats all there is around here. However, on occasion, I will wander to the dunes or an ORV park with more trails and an MX track.

With the extra power that you should gain with a big-bore stroker, you shouldn't need to gear down unless you are running larger rear tires. Infact with that kind of power increase, you should be able to pull higher gearing. However, like jigobeep said, some times gearing down is optimal for ceartain situations like dragging and hill shooting. He also mentioned porting, did you have any porting done? Also, pipes made for a stock bore 250 weren't really designed for a big-bore. Curtis Sparks, FTZ, and ESR as well as others all make good pipes for that. I have always heard of people having great resulsts from the ESR TRX-5Centermount on thier big bores.

That tent trailer is sweeeet.

Wow, so you are driving a golf cart now. Have you ridden a Raptor before? That will probably be the easiest transition. With all that torque, the front wheels don't like to stay on the ground, just like when you are riding a trike.

I just sold my 450 stockers to Mellow Yellow.

Has anyone else heard of using a Banshee front shock on the rear of a 400ex? A guy on another site pulled it off. He says he loves it.

A single front shock would be way too soft in back. The rear shock is designed to support about half of the wieght of the quad by itself, the front shocks split the other half among two shocks. Also consider the fact that the distance from the rear tires to where the rear shock mounts to the swingarm is probably three times the distance from one front tire to the mounting point for the front shock on the a-arm. This means the rear wheels have alot more leverage on the shock than the fronts ones do. I wouldn't be suprised if the rear end bottomed out just from sitting on it.

Very nice I may need to look at getting new shocks soon.

Keep your eyes on e-bay. You can find good deals on stock take-offs from 450's for pretty cheap. They aren't as good as the better aftermarket shocks that are available for your bike, but the new gen. stockers are still way better. I also saw alot of killer deals on aftermarket units too.

Lookin good, if you decide you don't like those elkas, I could provide them with a nice home for you.

Your words are too kind sir.

If you don't already have one, get a multi-meter or even a test light. Start at the battery and check all the curcuits to find where you lose current. Check for power at the key switch, the kill switch, the coil, the starter and any possible point between those things and the battery. The problem is most likely in your primary electrical system somewhere(battery, cables,switches) not in the secondary ignition,(cdi, coil, stator). Now that is not to say that you didn't fry them too, but you need to get power to the bike before you can diagnose any further problems. Like you were already advised, fuses and fusable links are the first thing to check. Outlander suggested you check the primary battery cables, also a good thought, if the cables are fried, they will act like a resistor and drain the battery. Google "voltage drop test" this will tell you how to check some of your electrical circuits. Also check for wires with melted insulation, you could have over heated a wire and created a dead short somewhere.

I merged this thread with your original thread you posted last month.

That's exactly what I always hear too.