davefrombc

The thermoelectric ones will only cool to about 40 degrees below ambient .. If using one on an 80F degree day you can expect 40F in the cooler at best. . I still have an old ( about 40 years old) Koolatron kicking around somewhere here. I got my 58 qt. compressor type through Vevor, Canada.. They had the best prices when I went looking for one 5 years ago. Yes, they're a Chinese company . Check them out along with your favourite US brand names (which are most likely made by the same companies that make the Vevor branded ones)

My dual zone 58 qt. portable came in handy when a good sale on meat came up and my fridge freezer was already full.. The compressor type portables draw less power than the thermoelectric ones and will cool down to about -4F.

That sounds like there is a bare spot t5hat shorts momentarily. That would explain the stall and voltage drop.. There should be a service manual for that quad in the forum's download section. The black wire may be from a safety switch to prevent the starter from running when the quad is in gear.

Check the wiring for a loose , badly corroded connection or a broken wire in the ignition circuit.

There is a posting of a service manual in the downloads section of QuadCrazy

I see there is a service manual listed in the downloads section. I downloaded the manual.. It is for a 1986 model but likely the same for the '88... There is NO brake light. That switch on the brake handle is a safety cut out switch so you cannot start the motor without the brake being on rather than a brake light switch.

As far as I know there is no specific snatch block for poly rope. Every one I've seen and used have been steel. You just need to be sure the block is sized for the rope you're using whether steel or poly.

Winches come in very handy at times.. mine has rescued others a couple of times and myself once. I would have just wired in the winch relay box properly.

Get help from a friend to heat the frame evenly over the area the steel tube is in while you try to work the steel post back and forth. Heating the aluminum should make it expand slightly before the heat transfers to the steel ,giving you a little wiggle room to get it to break loose.

A very big NOPE ! for me.. LOL. Loved flying but never could understand jumping out of a perfectly good plane or off of high places.

Have a very safe and Happy Thanksgiving to all the Canadian members on here

Had a little basis in fact years ago when battery cases were not made of the plastics used today. But even then leakage through the old battery cases was very small compared to the internal leakage inherent in lead acid batteries.

Lead acid ATV / UTV batteries, whether AGM, SLA or flooded are like car batteries.. They will last years longer if kept on a maintainer when not in use. Letting them sit at less than full charge is the biggest killer of them due to sulfation build up.

Yes you can do that .It's just the longer the arm is from the receiver the more torque has to be overcome.Unless there is a need to have the rack up level with the rear rack I think the shorter height is better, but that is just personal preference.

Tool rack level can be at top of tire height up to level of the original Foreman rack. The higher the tool rack, the more torque is exerted on the assembly from sideways rocking movement as you're traveling.

Sounds like a good plan. With the rack extending so far behind the rear wheels even with the 6" lift it'll likely only be good on relatively flat ground. though

I would use 2" square tubing to come out from the receiver and for the upright to the receiver at top for the rack. An angle brace from the horizontal to the upright and on to to the receiver would be good too.. You could use soft attachment at top to help stabilize the rack side movement.

I would suggest a little welding project. Build a hitch extension similar to a bike rack.. Come out from the receiver, up to a desired height ( I would say just above rear tire height) and attach a receiver there.. You could mount your tool rack there.. It would keep it high so it doesn't hit the ground when negotiating the dips and humps in a trail . Mounted at receiver height extends the rack so far behind the rear wheels it would drag on going through or over any but the smallest dips and bumps.

You can install mirrors on the handle bars a la bicycles., but if you want a camera you should be able to fabricate mounts front and rear. I don't know of any that would be stabilized enough to make a camera nearly as effective for rear view on the move as mirrors would be.

Use 12 gauge , even 14 would do.. 10 gauge is way overkill. Your choice whether to run ground wire back to the battery or ground to frame.. Either would work, but my preference is to run both wires from battery to socket. There is a wire chart in the download section showing capacity of the different gauges and wire lengths.. I generally use heavier gauges than those shown for my wiring to be sure to minimize voltage drop over distance.

The accessory socket ( cigarette plug) connector is available in vehicles and power stations so the fridge/ freezer can easily be used between vehicles and power stations. They work very well for low current accessories. You'll find them on all the portables. They are by far the most practical for low draw accessories like portable fridge freezers. For custom connections for high draw uses I use the various sizes of Anderson connectors because, unlike SAE connectors they cannot be cross connected

I'll likely see lots of argument , but I'd choose the least expensive offering of a 12v fridge / freezer in the size you want.. Nearly all of them are made in China or elsewhere in Asia and the same box can have all sorts of names tacked on it ,along with prices from low to ridiculous "No Name" to " Luxury Name". All the fridge / freezers are compressor types, and heavier than a similar sized electronic cooler only. I like my Vevor, Mike likes his similar machine . I suggest searching on " 12v fridge / freezer" to see the online offerings from the various vendors. Choose the size you want and price you're willing to pay, after checking on the units specs. Vevor offers ones from 10 quart mini' up. The myriad of offerings are made by various companies and have the Vevor name badge on them. Find one you like, compare it to other hits you see with different names on them and make your choice. Just a side note .. My unit listed at $298 CAD is the same capacity as a friends unit with a "name brand" that cost over $1,000 CAD bought at a brick and mortar store. Here is a link to the myriad offerings at Vevor.com ( USA site) Check their offerings and others and compare https://www.vevor.com/s/car-refrigerator-cooler

There may be other US sites with as good or better deals, but I got my 12v fridge / freezer from Vevor on their Canadian site . Mine came with a 12v power cord to run the fridge and a 120V ac to 12v dc power supply to run the fridge off house current. Here is the link to the Canadian site. https://www.vevor.ca/s/58-qt.-cooler-,-freezer

I have a 12v cooler / freezer I run on my power box.. It is compressor type, not thermo-electric and can be set from about 40F to -4 . Things like larger 120v ac motor driven tools, appliances` ,and microwave ovens can draw up to 3 and 4x their rated power so most can only be run by the most powerful power stations of at least 2000w. Lights and resistive loads like lights,a coffee pot or electric kettle will work on 1000w power stations as long as their rated power is 1,000w or less.. Technically resistive loads draw their rated power on start while inductive and capacitive loads can draw 3 times or more thah their rated power on start up.