davefrombc

Most single axles are rated for 3500 lbs. gross at best. That leaves only 1400lbs. for trailer tare wt. I suspect you'll have a hard time finding one that light and large enough to carry the SxS and quad together. Their combined weight is taking you into tandem axle territory. A quick check shows me Highlanders with the v6 can tow up to 5,000lb. The others are rated 3500lb.. Right at your axle's rating.

What do you expect to tow ? The Tundra can easily tow far more than a single axle trailer will gross out at.

You can get a replacement instrument cluster with tach, or an aftermarket stand alone accessory. However they're expensive unless you can find a good used one.. I would suggest a portable accessory tach that uses a clamp on spark plug wire one that you can use to see the revs of your motor at all speeds in all gears so you know where the performance is plus you have a tool to check other motors as need be. Just another handy diagnostic tool. As WeeBee says , you quickly learn where your quad performs best in each gear and where it peaks out without needing a tach to tell you.

Doesn't have to be someone familiar with the bike or that particular motor if you have a copy of the instructions for setting the cam and ignition timing. I know on some motors with a chain driven cam and ignition the timing marks are not not directly lined up but so many links apart. Double check that it is actually drawing fuel. after spinning the motor over several times with your hand blocking the carb intake does the spark plug look wet when you check it , or does it actually fire when the intake is severely restricted? I don't know about you, but I'm stubborn enough I'd keep at it until I got the damn thing running rather than part it out. I like my mother's saying ... " I'm not stubborn, I'm determined". I'm a bit like she was; and she could be very determined.

I can't help on the timing of the engine since I have never worked on one of those.. you'd have to go by the manual. .The piston would be TDC twice in each cycle. once on compression ( all valves closed) and TDC exhaust (exhaust valves open). But The timing marks shouldn't be lined up then.. The only thing might be if you are mistaking something for a timing mark rather than using the actual one.. . The firing in that video didn't sound at all like a firing under compression to me.. That is what I was going by.. To me it sounded just like some residual gas left in the cylinder after the exhaust stroke being ignited which would give the piston a bit of a push, but not enough to really spin it over.. Hopefully one of the other s has experience with that motor and can help.. At 82, I'm not that great at making diagnoses and interpreting what I see in a picture of the timing marks to what I would see if I was actually there with a motor open. With compression and ignition , I can only see fuel and timing being the missing element to it actually running and producing power. . Giving a shot of fuel directly into the carb should make it fire at least a couple of times with force To me , that only leaves timing as the culprit. Do you have a riding buddy that might be able to look at the motor with you and maybe spot something missed? That was how my error was solved on a car motor way back when.

The 425 is not an interference engine so the piston cannot hit the valves even if the timing chain broke. The worst it could be is a burnt valve. and since you have enough compression the slight exhaust leak isn't the reason for it not running. I'll repeat my suggestion one more time. Check timing and be sure it is not 180 degrees out.. Beyond that I cannot offer any more suggestions.

Good riddance 2025. HAPPY NEW YEAR !

The way it was turning over in the video seemed to me like it was firing on the exhaust stroke rather than on the compression If it has spark, it is not an electrical issue. I have seen motors run with only 65 pounds compression , but not develop any amount of power. As I've said, to me the problem is most likely timing of either valves if they had been worked on, or the ignition timing being 180 degrees out, or a very serious vacuum leak not allowing the motor to draw fuel from the carb. Yes, try a little squirt of oil in the cylinder to see if it raises the compression and check the decompression to see if it isn't stuck open. I just did a quick search on the old Fords Model T motors of the early automotive days.. Some ran with as little as 35 pounds compre3ssion. Typical compression was 40 to 55 pounds. It doesn't take a lot of compression for a motor to run, but one with that litle would have very little power.

Do you have spark when you turn it over on the pull cord or starter?

Back on the 22nd. Bill said he had spark when he pulled it over manually but it still did not start. Try connecting the spark tester again and try to start it.. If it has spark, it's not switches or wiring. That only leaves timing and fuel ( or a really serious vacuum leak)

All I can suggest at this point is to cdheck the timing again and make sure it is firing on TDC compre3ssion stroke and not TDC exhaust stroke. If the motor hyqas been disassembled and reassembled, you need to be sure both valve timigt and ignition timing aree right.. if it has compression , fuel and ignition it should run. It's amazing how easy to haqve a motor 180 degrees out of time and miss it even when checking again. Believe me , you wouldn't be the first to "check it twice" and be wrong both times. Don't ask How I know

Copied this from an article from the Cathedral of St. Joseph in Vermont website by Kathy Fisher The Octave of Christmas is the eight days beginning with Christmas Day and ending on New Year’s Day, January 1. Feast days and solemnities mark the period: the Nativity, December 25; St. Stephen, the first Christian martyr on December 26; St. John the Evangelist, apostle, author of the fourth Gospel, three letters, and the Book of Revelation, December 27; the Holy Innocents, December 28, the male child victims slaughtered by King Herod; the Holy Family, Sunday, December 29; St. Sylvester, December 31, and Mary, Mother of God, January 1. We recite the Gloria each day of the Octave. We then continue the Christmas season through Epiphany, January 5, and officially end with the Baptism of the Lord, January 12.

Have a very Happy and safe MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone.

I keep thinking of things to mention and the last is have you checked that the fuel bowls of the carbs have been filling? No plug between the fuel valve and the fuel bowl. It definitely has to be something rather simple that we're missing. You could try to use a spray bottle to mist the carb and see if the motor catches on those spritzes. If it does it would definitely be a fuel / vacuum problem.

Has the timing chain been off , or very loose by any chance ? It may have jumped way out of valve time. If it has spark it has to be fuel or valve / ignition timing way out of whack .One more trick to try before tearing into it.. Have you left the intake hose to the filter off and tried holding you hand over the intake ? That will tell you if it has intake draw? With that, I'm spent. I don't think there is a problem with the stator and can't think of anything else to try.

Have you tried connecting the spark tester and turning the motor over using the pull start to see if has spark that way.? It could be it gets power for ignition through the start circuit but doesn't when the starter is disengaged.

That sounds like a fuel issue.. Check the float level is right, the line from fuel tank to carb is unrestricted and there are no vacuum leaks. Does it rev up at first then dies on idle? if s idle mixture may be too lean. Does it run with the choke on ,or partially on? Vacuum leak. I can't offer more than those things to check.. I doubt it is an ignition problem but you could check it with an inline spark tester5 to be sure.. They are inexpensive and handy to have when chasing ignition and running issues. One issue I have heard of others having is the alternator/ /charging circuit when a diode went bad in the regulator.. It is a bit out of left field but when all else fails it's worth checking out .

This site offers service manual downloads for Arctic Cats. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/index.php?d=./Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals

The thermoelectric ones will only cool to about 40 degrees below ambient .. If using one on an 80F degree day you can expect 40F in the cooler at best. . I still have an old ( about 40 years old) Koolatron kicking around somewhere here. I got my 58 qt. compressor type through Vevor, Canada.. They had the best prices when I went looking for one 5 years ago. Yes, they're a Chinese company . Check them out along with your favourite US brand names (which are most likely made by the same companies that make the Vevor branded ones)

My dual zone 58 qt. portable came in handy when a good sale on meat came up and my fridge freezer was already full.. The compressor type portables draw less power than the thermoelectric ones and will cool down to about -4F.

That sounds like there is a bare spot t5hat shorts momentarily. That would explain the stall and voltage drop.. There should be a service manual for that quad in the forum's download section. The black wire may be from a safety switch to prevent the starter from running when the quad is in gear.

Check the wiring for a loose , badly corroded connection or a broken wire in the ignition circuit.

There is a posting of a service manual in the downloads section of QuadCrazy

I see there is a service manual listed in the downloads section. I downloaded the manual.. It is for a 1986 model but likely the same for the '88... There is NO brake light. That switch on the brake handle is a safety cut out switch so you cannot start the motor without the brake being on rather than a brake light switch.

As far as I know there is no specific snatch block for poly rope. Every one I've seen and used have been steel. You just need to be sure the block is sized for the rope you're using whether steel or poly.