davefrombc

as long as he is pulling the 7500 pound trailer on level paved ground an ATV would do it easily. The problem is the tongue weight.. One thing thnat might work is trig up a mount for a swiveling wheel mounted on the tongue low enough to allow the hitch to settle on the hitch ball while the swiveling tire bears most of the tongue weight. After all, a man can push a vehicle on a level hard surface. fosco is asking about moving that trailer around in the small space of his paved driveway, not pulling it down a road or on a trail.. The only thing that would stop him from doing that is the tongue weight which no ATV would support

Pulling that weight on level concrete would be no problem but no ATV could support that tongue weight. You could build a dolly to support the trailer tongue but then you would need a rigid connection from the ATV to that dolly to move the trailer. It could be done but a motorized trailer dolly is the best way to go.

There is a copy of the service manual in the downloads section.

What is the name of those tire valve replacements? I'd like to search on them to see if there is a source of them here.. I'm not really impressed with those Frozwees from the looks of them but they would likel work ok after a lot of fussing around.

That looks like the seal for the output shaft is bad; and your Amsoil.... Does it happen to be much lighter ( thinner) than the recommended oil for that case?. That could be the problem with the speed of the leak.leak

The brushes in your starter might be badly worn. They are replaceable

From the video I saw of another model, the neutral switch is located low on the left side of the transmission. Disconnect it and use a test meter to see if it shows open and ground when you shift in and out of neutral. If it tests ok, then test the wire to it for power with the ignition on and shifting in and out of neutral. To test to see if the starter itself is ok you can run a wire directly from battery positive and touch it to the positive terminal on the starter. If it is ok, also check the starter relay.

The tiller tines need t rotate at a much faster pace than the wheels so there would have to be considerable modifications`v and expense to try that idea.. My tiller tines rotate at approximately 13 times as fast as the wheels of the tiller. It would be an interesting concept if one of the ATV makers would add a PTO to their machine and offer PTO driven accessories lie a tiller for it . Mate a PTO to a hydraulic pump to drive the accessories.. Who wouldn't like an ATV yo can have fun with on the trails and use the same machine for snow blowing ( or blade pushing as the have now) but also for rotortilling and other garden chore .. A truly 4 season toy /tool.

I keep 1 or 2 amp maintainers on all my batteries that aren't used regularly . One is on my quad, one on my riding mower, one on a jump stater / air compressor pack and one on my 3/4 tom 4x4. They're far cheaper than replacing batteries that have lost capacity or completely failed because they sulphated up from self discharge while the machines sat idle for extended periods. A battery kept charged up on a maintainer can last several years while one allowed to sit at less than full charge may fail within a year or two.

The dimensions of that battery are shown in the amazon ad.Measure your battery box to see if it will fit .. If you search for a battery for the specific year and model it should take you to ads for compatible batteries .

Put the battery on a charger to charge it right up.. If it was left for a couple of months without a battery maintainer on it the charge on it could have been very low and a 20 minute charge from the quad's system would not likely bring it to anywhere near a full charge. I just did a search on your battery and the recommended battery for your quad. Your battery is woefully inadequate for that machine. It is rated for 120 cold cranking amps and likely only 9 amp hours reserve. Specs for your quad calls for a battery with 210 CCA and 14 Ah reserve. The little battery in your scrambler might start ok when the battery is full charged and in warm weather , but in the cold it is not likely going to do well even if fully charged.

HAPPY NEW YEAR !

Have a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS ! Happy and Safe HOLIDAYS everyone. !

The float could be stuck partly open or misadjusted. about the only thing I can think of otherwise is if there is a drain valve on the floatbowl bottom it could be stuck open by a bit of debris if you pushed the button to let a little fuel/ water out.

I've mentioned this in other threads, but a handy tool is an inline spark tester. Sometimes a spark test in free air ( spark plug out of the cylinder) will show a spark, but it will fail under compression.

Cheetah, Did you have the entire starter assembly out or just the starter? On some bikes the sprag ( the part in #4 that looks like a roller bearing) can be put in wrong way round. Those "rollers" are actually an oval shape. Turned in one direction the cam out and jam against the bore they run in and turn the assembly to start the motor. When the motor runs it is faster than the starter turns allowing those "rollers" to drop down and free the assembly. If you had the whole assembly part and put that sprag in wrong way round it would let the starter spin the assembly without locking up and turning the motor over. If that is the case, testing it like Mech suggested , you'd find turning the starter shaft forward it would turn freely but if you turned it back it would lock up, trying to turn the motor in reversed rotation.

The large size combination wrenches are handy to have.. Most bolts and nuts from about 1" / 25.4 mm up to 2" / 50.8 mm can be handled by those wrenches without having to also have a set of metric wrenches of the same sizes. My inner nuts on my Honda rear axle were either handled by my 1 !/2 wrench also, I believe.. Like GW, It was a while ago and I'm not sure which one it was .. Torque specs are fine if you have a specialized torque wrench that you could use, but not necessary. Snugged up solid , and checked to be sure nothing has loosened up after a few hours of running will do.

Increased resistance at the starter would not cause the voltage drop.. No need to pull the starter to test it .. Take a good battery and use jumper cables to connect to ground ad directly to the positive terminal on the starter to see if it spins up properly . The battery reading dropping to 2 v.... is that the reading at the battery positive post? A bad connection internally could cause the voltage to drop like that as soon as the battery is put under load.. Double check all your connections are clean and tight, and test once more , but my money is on either a shorted cell or an break internally at the positive battery post that causes it to only have a minimal connection that will not pass a high current. Either way , the battery would be toast.

Flooded batteries are fine in stationary and automotive use where they are less subjected to the pounding and occasional dumping over as they get in quads and bikes . SLA are better in ATVs, but the most reliable in them,, in my opinion,, are the AGMs. They have no liquid that can be spilled when our ATVs are ridden a little too hard. (We'd never do that , would we?) They are far less prone to any leakage that could cause corrosion at the terminals or elsewhere near the battery. They are far less prone to damage from vibration and shock from hard riding. Kept charged up with a maintainer or from frequent use and parked fully charged between uses they should last as long or longer than any of the others. They are a bit more expensive, but I believe their advantages outweigh the cost.

I assumed Ejwill would recharge the battery before trying to start the quad again.. Even a brand new battery run down and left discharged for too long can be destroyed or at least have its capacity greatly reduced by sulfation. That's why I recommend battery maintainers / tenders. A battery kept up by a maintainer should last a lot longer than 3 years. One left in a partially discharged or completely flat can be destroyed in a year or a lot less.

The biggest killer of all forms of lead/acid batteries is letting them sit, especially if they are not fully charged to start with. Sulfate builds up on the plates as they discharge and it hardens as it sits. Recharging a badly sulfated battery ,especially using a "desulfating" cycle can make some of that hardened sulfate flake off instead of going back into solution and shorting a cell. That reading of 11.4 volts ,could be because of a shorted cell, and be the cause of the "chatter" when trying to start the quad. A decent maintainer used on the battery when the quad is laid up will keep the battery charged up and extend its life many fold. If it is a shorted cell the battery is toast. Don't bother trying any of the "miracle" battery "rejunenators" you occasionally see advertised for sulfated or shorted cell batteries. They don't work. Buy a good maintainer when you buy a new battery and use it when the quad is laid up . The same goes for riding lawnmowers , boats or any other RV or yard equipment that may sit for more than a week or so at a time.

Are you sure the motor is seized and not something else jamming it ?

Most starters run the same direction whether they are wired straight or reversed. There are motors built to be easily reversible by shifting the position of the brushes on the commutator. Accidental shifting of brushes on a motor not designed for it could still cause it to reverse.

It may be the brushes have been reversed, changing the polarity. Have you had them out and accidentally switched them ( and their wiring) when putting them back? If the starter was like that when you got the machine , you could try switching them to see if that fixes it.. I don't know of any other way it would reverse.

Just a small problem. Those bridge rectifiers would not work to rectify and regulate the output of a quad's stator. You would need 3 of them just to rectify the output of the stator. Then you need circuity to smooth those voltage pulses from the 3 phases, and a regulator chip to limit that voltage to between 13.2 to 14.6 to actually charge the battery. There's a lot more circuitry inside that little rectifier/regulator box than you realize.