davefrombc

Their specs claim 18w..... 6 x 3w LEDs per light and only one needed for a head lamp; and only draw~1.5A. They're 4" lamps, not a light bar. Only one would be needed for a headlamp, not both. He could use the second on another project. . A 180w light bar would be insanely bright and too wide for a big single seat quad. On the Canadian Amazon site I found one lamp that only drew 9w, but didn't see the same one in the US site

You should be able to add both using LED lights. Here's a link to a pair of 18w 12v flood lights for example .https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-ZH009-Lights-Harness-Warranty/dp/B06XRZW1LD/ref=psdc_15730331_t2_B09174JSRK Just one of them should make more than enough light for the little Suzuki.. There are others available that would be suitable and run from 9w up you should be able to find with a search on 12v LED flood lights. There are all sorts of LED tail/ stop lights you could adapt for the back and most , if not all, would only use a couple of watts.

Ok.. That was the only thing I could think of when you said you'd worked on the carb and had gas in the crankcase. I know of it being done before so as I said , I could only suggest the possibility with the info I had .. When you find the problem please let us know.. Take care and happy riding . I'm wondering since the carb has been fine since you worked on it If the drain line was connected to the crankcase , the float may have stuck and flooded allowing the drain line to run the overflow to the crankcase. Just curious musing on my part .

From what you describe, I would guess it's your routing of "vacuum" lines. You have likely connected the crankcase vent line to a fuel drain or possibly a "PRImer" line on the carb.. Only guesses because I am not familiar with your Quadrunner. There should be a relevant service manual in the downloads section.. You need either a paid membership OR 10 posts in the forum to download the manuals. Here is the link to download it. I hope you get it running well, Let us know when you get it sorted out . Every solved problem is a help to those following who may have the same or similar trouble. The snow is retreating and trails are opening up in the north.. Sometimes we envy Florida's endless summer, but when we follow the news, that's about all we envy about "The Flower" state at this time .

There is no flux core wire for MIG welding aluminum. MIG welding aluminum is with shielding gas only. TIG welding or brazing with flux coated rods could build up the parts, but an expensive waste of time and effort. If you've never welded aluminum before I can pretty much guarantee instead of having built up parts you can try to sand smooth and balanced, you will end up with melted mess instead of clutch parts . Aluminum doesn't grind well. It plugs up grind stones and disks. Aluminum melts before it changes colour. Apply too much heat to an area too long and it goes from solid to melted with no warning. Welding aluminum is a special skill not like steel welding which is forgiving of mistakes .. There is no forgiveness in aluminum welding . Work on getting the motor to run first . If it is ok then look for a replacement clutch assembly.. Trying to fix that one will be an expensive lesson in frustration.

View File 1988 Yamaha Blaster Service Manual Found on a Blaster specific forum https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/yamaha-blaster-parts-service-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/ Submitter davefrombc Submitted 04/17/2022 Category Yamaha ATV  

There is a copy of the '88 Blaster service manual and a link to a Blaster specific forum in the downloads section now.

Here is a write-up on the 1988 Blaster. According to it they are a 200CC 2 stroke. I don't know why the VIN keeps coming up invalid. https://offroadingpro.com/yamaha-blaster/

As far as I can tell from searching your quad is a 1988 model, but try as I might I can't get a decode on that vin number. Are you sure that vin is correct? Some searches bring up nothing , others say the vin is invalid. One forum that had a link supposed to decode it was hijacked sending searcher off to a scam. Try contacting Yamaha directly and see if they'll help you.

Some of the manuals will have it stated in the .pdf's what years and models they cover. I can't help beyond that. The best I can suggest is look for one that covers the one you want whether it states for that year or not . If for a newer model than you have look to see if it states the older ones are covered also in the manual when you open it.. Most models with the same engine size will have very similar electrical components although their wiring colour code may be different and component location may be different .. The only cases where there would be huge differences would be is where the older model was carburetted and the newer one fuel injected with it's associated electronics the older model wouldn't have.

This manual was for the 2002 YFM450far but the electrical on your quad should be nearly the same , if not identical. There are also manuals in the Quadcrazy downloads section. Do you have a local ATV club or association? Very possibly if you do you may find a member there that would be willing to help you trace out the problem with your rig. You may find a tutorial on Youtube that would help you learn how you use your multimeter to check out the electrical system on your quad. 2002 Yamaha yfm450far_2.pdf

https://support.countrycat.com/search?query=Service+manual+for+2006+400

There's a few on here glad to help out others and new comers to the forum as much as we can. I have minimal knowledge on ATV's as such. My experience is mainly on older cars , before all the electronics and fuel injection came into the picture. I have a basic knowledge of electronics , but it's very basic , and I can often help in the search for service manuals. At 78, I have a little more "free time" to search than others whose week doesn't consist of 7 Saturdays, but I sure miss those Payday Fridays. Pension hours are great , but the pay needs improvement.

Pull the spark plug and squirt a bit of oil into the cylinder before you try to spin it over.. If there is any water in it it could jam on it and do some damage and if dry the oil will help the rings break loose from the cylinder walls. That clutch assembly is toast as far as I'm concerned and with that much corrosion there it make me wonder about the rest of the motor .

Here is the complete wiring schematic. Once you have reached the minimum posts level you will be able to download the complete service manual from the downloads section here. 94Honda 300FW wiring.pdf

I copied this page from the service manual here in the forum's download section.. It appears from that illustration it is likely the CDI box. Honda 300FW.pdf

You can get stripped nut and bolt remover sets. They have a reverse twist so when you drive the one that has the best bite onto the bolt head or nut they bite into it. When you turn them with your ratchet wrench the bite in deeper with the torque to remove the nut / bolt.

Sounds like no power to the ignition switch . All I can suggest is get a VOM or voltage probe and check for power at the input side of the switch. If no power there you have to trace back from there to battery to see where battery power stops.. If you have power at the ignition switch but not beyond , you found the culprit. As long as the neutral light is working and quad is in neutral that light should show when you turn ignition on .If the neutral safety switch is bad the light may or may not show but the quad starter won't engage on the button. When your quad is running do the lights shine brighter when you rev up and does your battery show charging voltage ( 13.2 to14v) and does the ignition switch turn off the quad? If yes, there is likely a broken wire or corroded connection preventing power to the ignition switch. There is a repair manual that should have an electrical schematic in the downloads section of the forum. Tracing faults can sometimes be a bi*** .. Hopefully you find the fault quickly.

I couldn't find the plug for that in any search. Why not replace it with a regular accessory socket? On my old Honda Fourtrax 300 FW I wired in accessory sockets on both the front and on the rear for running accessories .. My Honda has Honda's version of an accessory socket wired in on the front , but like your Yamaha , it is not a normal accessory outlet and although the plug is available the price of it is ridiculous. It uses the same plug as Honda generators use for their 12v DC outlet for battery charging. Most likely the plug you want is no longer used by Yamaha and they've gone to normal accessory sockets when fitted to newer machines. I'd clip those wires at the socket and replace the socket with a regular one that is readily available from any RV outlet. You could leave that unit as is if you wish and plumb in new wires and sockets like I did for power both front and back

The 36 tooth sprocket would make it slightly faster with slightly less pulling power. Not really enough to make any great difference in feel. About the only place you would notice the difference would be when you compare the top speed. The 36 tooth sprocket would go a couple of Mph faster.

The higher tensile strength chain would be best and definitely O ring chain will last longer unlubed. I saw a quote of the 8700 tensile strength for the OEM chain. In my search I came across a listing of 520 O-ring chain with a tensile strength of 8200 in an online listing by the US Walmart (.com) that as long as it is the right width for the sprockets should fit. As long as you're not beating that quad to the max the slightly lower strength chains should do the job. You'd have to count the links ( pitches) to order the chain and confirm price. I hope that helps.

My best guess is it is the piece that rides in the grooves on the long part second from top on the right---part of the shifting mechanism. It may have come off the part two images down from it . It also may have come off the part second from left on the bottom.

There should be some identifying numbers on the carb itself you should be able to use determine which one it is and get the specs for it