davefrombc

If the machine will roll in gear with the motor off, I would suspect a worn out belt. If the machine won't move in neutral or if you put it into either forward or reverse gear then either the brake is seized, or something is jamming the differential or transmission.

I found a download for the 2003 Polaris Predator 500 service manual that other sites say is applicable up to 2007. File size is just over 100MB so too large to add to the library or post here. You can download it from this site : http://quads.ddns.net/service-manuals/polaris/2003 Polaris Predator 500 Service Manual.PDF

This service manual might help. Wiring ca be sooo much "fun" 2007 Polaris Sportsman 700 800 800 EFI Service Manual.pdf

Try leaning out the idle mixture a bit .. Turn the air screw in 1/4 turn at a time and try accelerating. If it stumbles on acceleration , back the screw out again 1 /8 turn at a time until both idle and acceleration are good. That should also help the start. For regular use above 4,000 ft. you may need to rejet the carb to a smaller jet size.

I believe that was a similar problem another member in the forum had with his quad. Idled well and ran ok under low load but as soon as he tried to rev up it would cut out. You can get inline spark checkers that will tell you if you are losing ignition under load. Here's a link to one Home Depot carries. You can likely find one in a local auto supply or on Amazon. If the carb ran fine when replaced then the settings were likely fine. Plugged passages from sitting usually means a lean run problem. Hunter may very well have set the right course for you. . Not all apparent fuel problems are carb related, but like most that's the first thing I blame too.

Did it run OK after you had the carb replaced? The air screw usually is out about 1 1/2 turns +/- from lightly seated . If this has been happening since you got the new carb it may be the main fuel metering rod is set wrong .. There are notches in the top of it and a clip to change the amount it rises as you open the throttle. If the clip is in the lowest setting the carb will run the richest and in the top notch , the leanest. If this has been a problem right from the start with the new carb , try setting the metering rod one notch down from the top. That's where the rod is et on a friends Suzuki that uses the same carb..

It sounds to me that it is starving for fuel under load. That could be from plugged jets, too low a float setting or a restriction in the fuel line.

Your video and audio plays instantly on my PC but with my bad hearing I cannot separate any tapping or ticking noise over the regular exhaust note. An exhaust leak is the only thing I could guess at with all you've done. With the motor cold and at idle or low rpm there is minimum pressure in the exhaust system , and when the system is hot , components expand slightly which would make the connection tighter and seal off a leak if it was at that gasket. It's always "fun" chasing down intermittent problems and strange sounds .

I see quite a difference in the contact pattern between the bottom left and top right in that bottom photo. Is there an exhaust gasket between that flange and the head possibly missing? I'm not familiar with the motor so guessing , but I would think there should be a thin copper ring or high temperature gasket of some sort there .

Have you checked to be sure it isn't an exhaust leak right at the head? Maybe a crack in the header pipe or warp / nick in the flange that makes it sound as though coming from the valve cover.

If the starter motor spins but doesn't turn the engine over it is likely something wrong with the sprag clutch. The sprag is like a one way bearing .. When the starter spins the special rollers in the sprag lock the starter to the starter gear on the flywheel. When the motor starts and spins the flywheel faster than the starter does the rollers release and let the starter spin freely. For some reason the sprag is not locking up when the starter spins. There is a service manual in the downloads section that covers your machine

I should clarify my suggestion to try disconnecting the voltage regulator too. I imagine you know , but just in case I'll mention this, The stator for the charging circuit puts out 3 phase AC current, just as a car alternator does. That 3 phase is rectified to DC by 3 diodes and then regulated to the nominal 13.2 v to charge the battery. If any one of those diodes blows , there will be an AC ripple on the charging current,and when the motor is off the diode will drain current from the battery back to ground through the stator, easily killing a battery overnight. In cars you often notice the problem by a dash light coming on showing battery discharge. Few quads have that indicator light so you have a mystery drain. A side note , Have you tried those glasses they claim gives some color blind individuals color vision again? One friend of mine is red / green color blind and installs security systems for a living. He can install the connectors on the cat. 5 cable without a problem since he's done it since working with his father as a child . He says he can tell which wire is which by the slight difference in grey shade of the wires. He refuses to try the glasses. I'm curious whether they work as advertised or not . My color vision is fine, it's just the print is an increasing problem for me . It seems the quality of it has gone way down and they are making the instructions on bottles and pamphlets much smaller and fuzzier than they did years ago. Strange how it clears up some with dollar store reading glasses on these 77 year old eyes LOL.

LOL. Mech , I'm glad I'm not the only one to post in the wrong thread in a group and cause a lot of "Huh"s?. My guess would be a bad diode too. I couldn't find a schematic on that quads electronics ,on a quick search , but if a VOM is not handy he could try disconnecting the voltage regulator and then see if it still has the drain down problem after a few days sitting.

It sounds to me as though the throttle really isn't opening. Check the carb to see if the slide is actually moving with the throttle . and the needle is moving with the slide.

Very glad to see the end of 2020. Have a very Happy, safe and prosperous 2021 everyone.

A little NZ to USA translation.. DTI gauge - Dial indicator and stand Gas Axed - cutting torched Gudgeon pin Wrist pin or piston pin 16mm - 5/8 " 160mm - 6"

Can't suggest any dress up mods but you might consider adding an accessory socket to it if it doesn't already have one. Comes in handy to run a small 12v air compressor or other small 12v accessories . All you need is an aftermarket accessory socket , 15 amp inline fuse , some 14 gauge wire and connectors and a hole saw or cutter to bore the hole for the socket in the plastics. Get a socket that has the rubber cover to keep the crud out when it is not in use.

Do you know if a previous owner had any problems with either differential? I'm wondering if one of them has been replaced with one with a slightly different ratio. Another thing that could cause a binding and unloading is replacing the stock wheel sizes with another . Gear ratios and wheel diameters are inter-related . If there is a mismatch between the front and rear you can get binding that might be the cause of the clanking sound as it binds and releases

Sent you a pm Mech. I can help you get manuals into the forum.

On a 4 stroke engine the timing marks can line up on the top of the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. As Mech says , it's possible you have them lined up on the exhaust stroke. Everything will line up but 180 degrees out of time .

Check the fuses for continuity. I've had ones that looked good but actually were open.

Double check the fuses and the terminal in the socket the red wire connects to You may need to replace that assembly if there is corrosion in the socket preventing proper contact

I confused you with the fellow with the Bear Tracker. . LOL. . He had a similar problem.. He was able to start his quad by turning the ignition on and jumpering the starter solenoid terminals or by pull starting it . . No power to the ignition switch. Running a wire from the battery to the ignition switch worked for him . Now all he has to do is trace the red wire back from his ignition switch to the battery to see where the trouble lies.

Trace the red wire back from the ignition switch to the battery to see if there is a break there or a bad connection. There is likely not a solenoid/ relay on that wire but just a break or bad connection at one end of the wire or the other.

OK. I hope that new to you harness does the trick . I'm surprised it ran when you turned the ignition switch on and pull started it with so much of the wiring damaged Take care , have fun .