davefrombc

There isn't one for your 500 in the downloads section here but there are for many arctic cats and most likely one for one of the older carburetted ones would serve for it too. Do you know the year of it?

Neither picture is right. Here is an exploded view of the carb on Partszilla https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/arctic-cat/atv/2005/500-manual-transmission-4x4-fis-red-a2005ibm4ausr/carburetor Any pictures I see of that carb on searches show 2 connected exterior hoses that's why I suggested it might be for the float bowl vent/ overflow drain. I cannot find a picture of the bottom of the carb in any search to see just what goes to the threaded hole. That carb is not exactly the same but it uses the same needle valve setup. Look for parts 5 & 6

The "brass pipe" on that carb might be a "hose barb" that screws into the carb (1/8" pipe tap or metric equivalent) to attach the hose to and the hose barb may be somewhere else in the box.

I suspect it is for a threaded fitting to connect a breather line to the float bowl

To test a thermostat you put it in a pot of water and heat it up. Use a cooking thermometer to measure the water temperature that the thermostat opens up at. It should open at the temperature it is marked for .. In a pressure system, that would most likely be near or at sea level boiling point of 212 Degrees F or 100 C

Have you checked it is sparking top dead center on compression stroke rather on exhaust ( timing 180 degrees out). It is an easy mistake to miss even among the most experienced techs .

Sounds to me it is leaning out on full throttle. Possibly a carb passage plugged or possibly carb floats set too low

There is a service manual for your quad in the downloads section. The wiring diagram illustrates a different solenoid than the pictured one but I gather from it that on that solenoid the red goes to the starter, the black is to battery, and the small yellow wire would go into the connector with a yellow wire /red stripe. The small black/ white stripe would connect to the white/ red stripe wire on the machine.. There is no connection from the machine to the post with the green top. Those are only guesses on my part since the solenoid looks different from the wiring diagram illustration and the color coding on the small wires. Your best bet to be sure is to go to a Bombardier/ Can-Am dealer and ask their service people.

COVID, record heat wave, fires, floods, deep freeze and more fires. Good riddance 2021. Have a Safe and very HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone. May 2022 make up for the trials of the last 2

MERRY CHRISTMAS ! Have a warm and safe one everybody.

Doable for both hf and vhf/ uhf. I haven't mounted any of mine on the quad but I plan on it down the road. You'd need a good tuner , especially on hf since you would be seriously lacking in ground plane.. Some hams have taken a long wire to stretch out for a bit of ground plane when stopped for lunch or in a camp for the night. I have used my gear mobile in my truck and with my mobile antenna mounted on the railing on a 22 ft. boat. I used an Icom IC 730 ,MFJ 949 tuner and Swan model 45 80 - 10 mobile antenna. the combo worked well on all of the hf bands. I miss that antenna with its monster loading coil and manual sliding tap for band switching. With the compact hf/ vhf rigs , automatic tuners and a wide choice of mobile antennas available now, the complete setup would take up very little room on your front or rear rack.

Except for Lithium batteries they're all lead / acid. Flooded batteries are the worst and cheapest. A very poor choice for an atv that sees lots of off camber travel, bounces and shaking. The leak acid because of it and wreak hell on everything that acid touches .. SLA ( Sealed Lead Acid ) batteries are just that . They are sealed and vented; built better to withstand all the shaking better than the cheaper batteries that can leak so easily. They still must be mounted upright though. AGM ( Absorbent glass mat ) batteries have the electrolyte absorbed in a glass mat. There is no free acid in it to spill so they can be mounted in any position and are the most resistant to damage from the rough environment found in ATV use. They all must be kept charged by a maintainer when not in use as they all have some level of self discharge and too deep a discharge can reduce their capacity or destroy them. For price and performance, in an ATV the SLA is the best choice of the three.

When your quad sits a lot , especially the new electronic ignition, computer controlled ones they should be kept on a battery maintainer. The small trickle used by the electronics even when the ignition is off will drain the battery. SLA and AGM batteries also always have a bit of self discharge so the combination of the electronics and self discharge means they must be kept up topped up. They do not like to be deep discharged and quickly lose capacity if they are .. Totally flatten either type and you are pretty much guaranteed the battery is toast.. A small maintainer is a lot cheaper than a battery and will eliminate the buying of a new battery every year. I have one on my truck, another on my quad and a third on my riding lawnmower.

For ATVs and snowmobiles the AGM has the advantage in cold weather. They are also a lot less expensive. Lithium shines in solar applications and where very deep cycling is wanted without service life suffering as badly , and of they have a weight advantage when used in a battery bank in a motorhome. For motorcycles, ATVs and Snowmobiles where you want cold weather starting and charging far more than need of reserve capacity, go with AGM or SLA. They're rugged, better in the cold and are far less expensive than Lithium

It would be stable enough but single wheel drive wouldn't have the traction to push the machine in slippery conditions of mud and snow. It might work if the front/ steering wheels were driven rather than the single rear wheel, but I can't see any advantage over a 4 wheeler and can envision a few disadvantages in less than ideal conditions .

There is a service manual in the downloads section of the forum.

Check service manuals or online for recommended oil for the engine, differentials and transmission. They don't have to be Polaris branded. Synthetic oils in the weights and types recommended are best since they remain much more fluid in very cold weather than mineral oils do.

It may have spark in free air but fail under compression. Get an in line spark tester and see f that may be the case. you can likely get one at a local auto supply or order online . They're not expensive and handy to have when chasing down an ignition problem.

That is the way it is supposed to be . Starting in gear is a safety issue and all quads are not supposed to start in gear. If yours was , there was a safety switch that wasn't functioning , possibly because it was very slightly out of alignment and is now operating properly. Cars or motorcycles, and other motorized equipment like riding lawnmowers all have the start in neutral only feature, unless the safety lockout has failed or someone has foolishly defeated it .

Spraying carb cleaner into the intake only cleans the throat of the carb and the manifold some .. To clean the carb you need to disassemble it and clean out all the jets and passages .. Especially look for some tiny drilled holes in the jet tubes that likely need to be cleaned out with very thin wire or a welder's tip cleaners .

Check the light bulb itself.

That sounds like a problem in the starter itself. Most likely the brushes are worn and the commutator is dirty. Brushes don't make good contact so several tries may be needed to get it to spin over at times and other times it spins over right away. You can eliminate the solenoid by running a wire directly from the battery and touch the positive post on the starter. If it spins up every time , it can be in the solenoid but if it doesn't spin up every time you do it, it is definitely in the starter. Brushes aren't hard to change. No special tools needed.

You should be able to power the light bar without any problem. You should be able to find the connector you want to tap the light bar relay into the high beam circuit in many hardware stores or electronic outlets. Look for a "T tap" to connect the relay circuit. The wire is likely 16 gauge.

Here is the wiring diagram for that machine. It'll help you trace out the fault. You say there is continuity on the start button , but is there power to it when in neutral and ignition on ? If not , trace back from there, if there is then check switch to relay and beyond until you find the break. Honda TRX 200 service manual 1984 - B. 1984 TRX200(1).pdf

You can tap into the high beam power by using it to trigger a relay to actually power the light bar from a line to the battery. That would turn the light bar on and off with the high beams and no overload the high beam lights wire and fuse. The only way to tell how powerful a light bar you can use is to know the output of the charging circuit, the demand put on the system by the ignition and light circuits when they are on and a little extra to charge the battery. The ignition would likely only use a couple of amps at most. If the owners manual only lists the demand of the lights and any accessories in watts, you can get the amperage draw by dividing the watts by 12. When you know the amount of draw on the alternator the system itself draws and the output of the alternator then it only requires you to choose a light bar whose draw is a little less than the power available after all normal running demand is satisfied. I hope I didn't overly complicate the explanation of what is really fairly straight forward in doing.