davefrombc

If you plan on doing a lot of winching, or even just to be "well equipped" for winching, get a couple of "tree saver" straps and a choker cable.- The straps protect trees from damage by the winch cable and are handy for connecting to all sorts of things in a pull. You can use the choker as a short extension when a longer reach is needed or use it to tie the rear of the quad to something when the quad is being dragged by the pull rather than the object you want to move. The "snatch block" on the winch line can be used as you did to change direction the winch pulls, or to double the pulling power of the winch.. By the way, winches are usually rated pulling with a single wrap on the drum, not by whether the snatch block is used.. As each wrap loads on the drum the pulling power reduces.. A winch rated 3500 # at one wrap may only pull 500# on the last wrap of a full drum. One last thin I can think of is for those that may need to winch when there is nothing to pull against. 2 or preferably 3, 3ft. iron stakes either solid or pipe can be driven into the ground at an angle and tied together in series top to bottom. The winch line is connected to the bottom of the first stake to pull against. The other 2 stakes are used to keep the first from being pulled forward and out while the in ground part of the first stake provides the anchor for the pull. RT%he firmer the ground , the heavier load the stake will handle.

It shouldn't be very difficult to move the axle back to center about where the trailer light / license plate is now. You could tap into the brake light wiring easily to add brake lights to it ; and as far as accessory sockets go, it is also quite easy to add one to your quad. I added one to both the front and rear of my '91 Honda Fourtax 300 4x4

Here is a link to various connectors and plug wiring for trailers.. Also posted under another title in the Other ATV Files section of Downloads.

Back in 2019 I posted up a pdf of various connectors, sockets and and trailer plug wiring in the "other files "section.. Here a a link to that file

To measure the ring gap,use the piston to push the ring down in the cylinder to easily align the ring to the bore.. Measure the gap at the top, middle and bottom of the travel area to find any taper worn into barrel.

There is a service manual for your quad in the downloads section of the forum.

There is a service manual for your quad in the downloads section that will help sort your wiring problem and any rebuilding you might need to do.

as long as he is pulling the 7500 pound trailer on level paved ground an ATV would do it easily. The problem is the tongue weight.. One thing thnat might work is trig up a mount for a swiveling wheel mounted on the tongue low enough to allow the hitch to settle on the hitch ball while the swiveling tire bears most of the tongue weight. After all, a man can push a vehicle on a level hard surface. fosco is asking about moving that trailer around in the small space of his paved driveway, not pulling it down a road or on a trail.. The only thing that would stop him from doing that is the tongue weight which no ATV would support

Pulling that weight on level concrete would be no problem but no ATV could support that tongue weight. You could build a dolly to support the trailer tongue but then you would need a rigid connection from the ATV to that dolly to move the trailer. It could be done but a motorized trailer dolly is the best way to go.

There is a copy of the service manual in the downloads section.

What is the name of those tire valve replacements? I'd like to search on them to see if there is a source of them here.. I'm not really impressed with those Frozwees from the looks of them but they would likel work ok after a lot of fussing around.

That looks like the seal for the output shaft is bad; and your Amsoil.... Does it happen to be much lighter ( thinner) than the recommended oil for that case?. That could be the problem with the speed of the leak.leak

The brushes in your starter might be badly worn. They are replaceable

From the video I saw of another model, the neutral switch is located low on the left side of the transmission. Disconnect it and use a test meter to see if it shows open and ground when you shift in and out of neutral. If it tests ok, then test the wire to it for power with the ignition on and shifting in and out of neutral. To test to see if the starter itself is ok you can run a wire directly from battery positive and touch it to the positive terminal on the starter. If it is ok, also check the starter relay.

The tiller tines need t rotate at a much faster pace than the wheels so there would have to be considerable modifications`v and expense to try that idea.. My tiller tines rotate at approximately 13 times as fast as the wheels of the tiller. It would be an interesting concept if one of the ATV makers would add a PTO to their machine and offer PTO driven accessories lie a tiller for it . Mate a PTO to a hydraulic pump to drive the accessories.. Who wouldn't like an ATV yo can have fun with on the trails and use the same machine for snow blowing ( or blade pushing as the have now) but also for rotortilling and other garden chore .. A truly 4 season toy /tool.

I keep 1 or 2 amp maintainers on all my batteries that aren't used regularly . One is on my quad, one on my riding mower, one on a jump stater / air compressor pack and one on my 3/4 tom 4x4. They're far cheaper than replacing batteries that have lost capacity or completely failed because they sulphated up from self discharge while the machines sat idle for extended periods. A battery kept charged up on a maintainer can last several years while one allowed to sit at less than full charge may fail within a year or two.

The dimensions of that battery are shown in the amazon ad.Measure your battery box to see if it will fit .. If you search for a battery for the specific year and model it should take you to ads for compatible batteries .

Put the battery on a charger to charge it right up.. If it was left for a couple of months without a battery maintainer on it the charge on it could have been very low and a 20 minute charge from the quad's system would not likely bring it to anywhere near a full charge. I just did a search on your battery and the recommended battery for your quad. Your battery is woefully inadequate for that machine. It is rated for 120 cold cranking amps and likely only 9 amp hours reserve. Specs for your quad calls for a battery with 210 CCA and 14 Ah reserve. The little battery in your scrambler might start ok when the battery is full charged and in warm weather , but in the cold it is not likely going to do well even if fully charged.

HAPPY NEW YEAR !

Have a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS ! Happy and Safe HOLIDAYS everyone. !

The float could be stuck partly open or misadjusted. about the only thing I can think of otherwise is if there is a drain valve on the floatbowl bottom it could be stuck open by a bit of debris if you pushed the button to let a little fuel/ water out.

I've mentioned this in other threads, but a handy tool is an inline spark tester. Sometimes a spark test in free air ( spark plug out of the cylinder) will show a spark, but it will fail under compression.

Cheetah, Did you have the entire starter assembly out or just the starter? On some bikes the sprag ( the part in #4 that looks like a roller bearing) can be put in wrong way round. Those "rollers" are actually an oval shape. Turned in one direction the cam out and jam against the bore they run in and turn the assembly to start the motor. When the motor runs it is faster than the starter turns allowing those "rollers" to drop down and free the assembly. If you had the whole assembly part and put that sprag in wrong way round it would let the starter spin the assembly without locking up and turning the motor over. If that is the case, testing it like Mech suggested , you'd find turning the starter shaft forward it would turn freely but if you turned it back it would lock up, trying to turn the motor in reversed rotation.

The large size combination wrenches are handy to have.. Most bolts and nuts from about 1" / 25.4 mm up to 2" / 50.8 mm can be handled by those wrenches without having to also have a set of metric wrenches of the same sizes. My inner nuts on my Honda rear axle were either handled by my 1 !/2 wrench also, I believe.. Like GW, It was a while ago and I'm not sure which one it was .. Torque specs are fine if you have a specialized torque wrench that you could use, but not necessary. Snugged up solid , and checked to be sure nothing has loosened up after a few hours of running will do.

Increased resistance at the starter would not cause the voltage drop.. No need to pull the starter to test it .. Take a good battery and use jumper cables to connect to ground ad directly to the positive terminal on the starter to see if it spins up properly . The battery reading dropping to 2 v.... is that the reading at the battery positive post? A bad connection internally could cause the voltage to drop like that as soon as the battery is put under load.. Double check all your connections are clean and tight, and test once more , but my money is on either a shorted cell or an break internally at the positive battery post that causes it to only have a minimal connection that will not pass a high current. Either way , the battery would be toast.