davefrombc

He likely meant the pick up coil . it's what mounted inside the stator and picks up the pulse from the flywheel magnets

You can get reverse twist drill bits to drill the broken bolt and extractors to remove it. one as small as a valve cover bolt would be a challenge to drill on center but often with the reverse twist drill bits the broken screw/ bolt will spin out without needing to use the extractor. Congrats on getting it running .. It was likely a combination of all you did that got it to start rather than any one thing. most motors will run with valves widely out of spec as long as there is sufficient compression. They don't run well but usually at least try to run.

The set you show there is a 2 step set. Each blade has 2 sizes on it . The outer end will be the thinner one .. You'd use the . 010-012 to set the valve at .010. Then to check if it is too tight at what you felt is .010 you'd drop to the .009 -.010 to see if it was moderately snug on .010 but slid easily at .009. Then to check the other way to see if you had it too loose you'd go to the .010 - .012 to see if it slid through the gap on the .012 portion of the blade ... Precision Go ( setting ok) or No Go (setting too tight or too loose) Gauges like those are used when settings are required to be precise and allow a quick check of the setting when the critical dimension is to the plus or minus side of center. Most feeler gauges are single size for the whole blade. To check go or no go with them you'd try the sizes above and below your desired one to check accuracy . Use the gauge with the gap you want on the outer part of the blade .. if critical is closer use the .010 -.008 gauge if tolerance is .001, or the .010 - .012 if critical is looser for example . those blades allow checking with .oo1 or. 002 tolerance levels .

I would like to see some of the new battery technology they're working on pan out with more capacity and less chance of fire if they get wet. If worried about running out of juice leaving you stranded, a small generator could be carried. It would take some time to get any amount of juice but it could limp you back Some SXS's have enough room for a couple of roof top solar panels. LOL Wouldn't get you very far , very fast , but.......

Couldn't edit my post when I saw the error. Check to see if there is power from the battery to the starter solenoid, not the starter as I said in the beginning of the post.

Check to see if there is power from the battery to the starter. If there is power there then jump the terminals that trigger the solenoid. If the starter does not spin over then leave those terminals connected and check to see if there is power to the starter side of the solenoid. No power from battery to solenoid , the break is there . No power across the solenoid with the trigger wires jumped , then fault is in the solenoid, If there is power across the solenoid when the trigger wires are jumped then fault is in the wire from the solenoid to the starter.. The starter is internally grounded and since it spins over when a wire is run directly from the positive battery terminal the battery ground is good. If everything checks out by jumping those terminals , the fault is in the start switch, a safety switch or the wires to the solenoid and the click you hear when pressing the start button is from somewhere else

It's great to have members here who can give specific help information Curtis. Ones like myself can only give general information and hints of where to look, mostly from pre-computerized, carburetted / points and condenser automotive days, with a smattering of electrical wiring. Beyond offering guesses of where to look and help finding manual downloads and general mechanical info. Beyond that, I have to dig into the manuals myself .

I suspect it is a fuel mixture problem.. Have you played with the mixture screws? What notch is the main jet needle in on the slide?. Is the idle air screw turned all the way in?. It usually is anywhere from 11/2 to 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Have you downloaded the service manual from the downloads section Here? you might get some idea where to start on carb settings in it. If you're getting spark the rectifier and rest of the ignition system is likely ok.. getting any kick from the motor when you choke it with your hand over the inlet is usually because there is something plugged or badly miss set on the carb. or an air leak on the inlet making it far too lean

Take the spark plug out and turn the motor over to see if you have spark a thumb over the spark plug hole will give you an indication if you have at least half way decent compression. There is a service manual that covers your quad in the downloads section of the forum.

I haven't used one. That one was one f many that popped up on a search and looked like it should mount quite solidly compared to some of the others that came up.

Here's one https://www.theatvsuperstore.com/Suzuki-King-Quad-2-Receiver-Hitch-p/1191cmp.htm

With an ammeter in the circuit look to see if there is a draw with the key off. If there is , disconnect the voltage rectifier / regulator. If the draw stops you found the culprit . If I diode blows you very well could be showing charging voltage but with a large ac ripple . Alternators put out 3 phase ac. The rectifier turns that into dc which the regulator limits to charging voltage , typically 13.2 to 14.5 v. If a diode goes open there will be a large ripple in the charging voltage but if it blows shorted you will not only have the ripple charging and all the unstable electronics that goes with it , but key off the battery would drain back through the shorted diode. Doing a bit of search brings up several sites where people are seeking help with Polaris rectifiers / regulators. I didn't think to mention this when I posted. Yammy may very well have hit on it .

Have you put an ammeter in line with the battery to see if it is taking any charge? you may be seeing charging voltage but that doesn't necessarily mean the battery is being charged.. Are the battery terminals clean of corrosion?. If there is too much corrosion there can be 14v at the terminal but the resistance from the corrosion will not let the current get to the battery. Most vehicles can run on the alternator alone once started , but many now require a battery be in the system to . The battery may be be just connected enough the system sees it and will run but as the battery draws down the system fails.. Newer electronic systems are a lot different than the old mechanical ones. . Clean terminals and connections and check with an ammeter to see if the battery is rally getting a charge. From there you will have some idea where to go next. What voltage does the battery show after being charged and let sit for a few hours with no draw on it ? the battery could be faulty. A fully charged battery should show about 12.6 volts a few hours after charging. Another thing might be it isn't a battery problem at all, but something in the ignition or fuel system electronics heating up and failing after an hour or so of running. How do you restart the quad after it has shut down from low battery?

In BC, road permits are issued free from the local detachment office for the area you want to drive in . There are 2 insurances required to ride here .. The ICBC insurance is for crossing main roads at intersections and driving on secondary road shoulders. The other is liability insurance for riding on forest service roads and other Crown land .. That insurance is normally cheaper through private companies. I have no idea on the requirements in Alberta.

It depends on where you are. In BC, Canada, you have to be licensed and have a minimum $200,000 Liability insurance to cross main roads and also may drive on the shoulder of secondary roads with a permit from the local police department. You must also have separate liability insurance to ride on public land. There is no requirement for running or signal lights here. You need to check with your state/ provincial laws for the requirements for you and your quad there . The rules can be very different depending on the location.

Their specs claim 18w..... 6 x 3w LEDs per light and only one needed for a head lamp; and only draw~1.5A. They're 4" lamps, not a light bar. Only one would be needed for a headlamp, not both. He could use the second on another project. . A 180w light bar would be insanely bright and too wide for a big single seat quad. On the Canadian Amazon site I found one lamp that only drew 9w, but didn't see the same one in the US site

You should be able to add both using LED lights. Here's a link to a pair of 18w 12v flood lights for example .https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-ZH009-Lights-Harness-Warranty/dp/B06XRZW1LD/ref=psdc_15730331_t2_B09174JSRK Just one of them should make more than enough light for the little Suzuki.. There are others available that would be suitable and run from 9w up you should be able to find with a search on 12v LED flood lights. There are all sorts of LED tail/ stop lights you could adapt for the back and most , if not all, would only use a couple of watts.

Ok.. That was the only thing I could think of when you said you'd worked on the carb and had gas in the crankcase. I know of it being done before so as I said , I could only suggest the possibility with the info I had .. When you find the problem please let us know.. Take care and happy riding . I'm wondering since the carb has been fine since you worked on it If the drain line was connected to the crankcase , the float may have stuck and flooded allowing the drain line to run the overflow to the crankcase. Just curious musing on my part .

From what you describe, I would guess it's your routing of "vacuum" lines. You have likely connected the crankcase vent line to a fuel drain or possibly a "PRImer" line on the carb.. Only guesses because I am not familiar with your Quadrunner. There should be a relevant service manual in the downloads section.. You need either a paid membership OR 10 posts in the forum to download the manuals. Here is the link to download it. I hope you get it running well, Let us know when you get it sorted out . Every solved problem is a help to those following who may have the same or similar trouble. The snow is retreating and trails are opening up in the north.. Sometimes we envy Florida's endless summer, but when we follow the news, that's about all we envy about "The Flower" state at this time .

There is no flux core wire for MIG welding aluminum. MIG welding aluminum is with shielding gas only. TIG welding or brazing with flux coated rods could build up the parts, but an expensive waste of time and effort. If you've never welded aluminum before I can pretty much guarantee instead of having built up parts you can try to sand smooth and balanced, you will end up with melted mess instead of clutch parts . Aluminum doesn't grind well. It plugs up grind stones and disks. Aluminum melts before it changes colour. Apply too much heat to an area too long and it goes from solid to melted with no warning. Welding aluminum is a special skill not like steel welding which is forgiving of mistakes .. There is no forgiveness in aluminum welding . Work on getting the motor to run first . If it is ok then look for a replacement clutch assembly.. Trying to fix that one will be an expensive lesson in frustration.

View File 1988 Yamaha Blaster Service Manual Found on a Blaster specific forum https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/yamaha-blaster-parts-service-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/ Submitter davefrombc Submitted 04/17/2022 Category Yamaha ATV  

There is a copy of the '88 Blaster service manual and a link to a Blaster specific forum in the downloads section now.

Here is a write-up on the 1988 Blaster. According to it they are a 200CC 2 stroke. I don't know why the VIN keeps coming up invalid. https://offroadingpro.com/yamaha-blaster/

As far as I can tell from searching your quad is a 1988 model, but try as I might I can't get a decode on that vin number. Are you sure that vin is correct? Some searches bring up nothing , others say the vin is invalid. One forum that had a link supposed to decode it was hijacked sending searcher off to a scam. Try contacting Yamaha directly and see if they'll help you.