davefrombc

Likely his was leaking through the vacuum line to the carb.. The "This Fits" is the most common valve for gravity fed systems.. As it is labeled the middle is off . Top is on main and bottom is the reserve. The faulty valve only opens the main under vacuum.. The reserve opens whether there is vacuum or not.. Yes the no vacuum valve will work and give you both the main and reserve as dsigned.. TRhe vacuum operated valve depends on the fuel in the carb bowl to start and open the line.. If there is no vacuum the motor would die as soon as the carb bowl emptied.

Check the downloads section on the forum. There are several ones for Suzi's 400 series but the only specific Eiger one I see is for the 2003

Good Friday and have a great and safe long weekend everyone!

Most magneto ignition systems use grounding to shut down. . Try disconnecting the kill switch to see if you have spark then.. Also it could be another safety switch problem if the starter doesn't turn the motor over. I know I'm mentioning things that are obvious , but it's far too often the obvious is overlooked.. Is the quad in neutral? If in gear most will not allow the starter to run, and start ignition is off.. Try running power directly to the starter to see if it runs. If it does run with direct power, look for a relay / safety switch causing the no start problem. Hope my generic search advice helps.

Colby valve stems come in very handy if the valve stem gets damaged and leaking. Plug kits are great for punctures but they're useless if the valve stem is damaged.. Your air pump is useless without a serviceable valve stem to fill the tire. Yes, you can limp in with a leaky valve if you make multiple stops to fill the tire, but damage the valve stem to the point it leaks too fast or you are unable to attach your pump and you are SOL.

Have you tried an AI search?.. I did and came up with this.. Hope it helps . Rear Location: A second accessory connection is found on the right side of the machine, below the seat area behind the plastics or near the top of the rear strut.

Good morning from snowless Sorrento, BC.

When the pump stops try tapping on the relay and see if it starts again. Usually if it is a bit of corrosion causing the stop once started they usually continue though.. I have a well pump I have to clean the points on its relay occasionally because of the no start at times problem.. Different equipment but similar problem possible

It may be the fuel pump is getting worn and binding when first turning on, I'm not sure because I don't have any experience with FI quad motors but I would think the fuel pump should run steady to pressurize the fuel system when the key is on. Do you have easy access to the fuel pump relay? If you can hear it click on and the pump doesn't start right away, it is possible the contacts in the relay have a bit of corrosion and don't close properly.If that's the case, turning off and back on right away can make the close .. If key is on and no pump sound, try tapping the relay and see it that makes it start..

I don't know of any brushless starter motors.. The brushless tools use an electronic circuit to turn the 12v DC into 3 phase AC for the motors in them .. That's why the higher price over brushed versions. Starter motors have very high current draw so would take quite a robust DC to 3 phase circuit and it would be very expensive to make the motor and power converter circuit.

Try the end bell swap before ordering a new rotor

Do you have another identical starter? if so. Try swapping the end bells with the brushes and see if the bad one works and the good one goes bad. Just from the photos I suspect the problem is in the spring pressure (actually lack of it) on the one set of brushes.

If that one brush holder set does not have adequate spring pressure on the brushes, that is where your starter problem is.

It looks like the brushes at the top in the photo don't have much spring load when you compare them to the lower pair.. lower pair closed up top pair hanging wide open. Both sets of brushes should be fairly tight together if the spring loading is good.

Did you clean the commutator? The second picture shows it in bad need of cleaning off the ends of the segments of the built up carbon that could be shorting some of them out. Thoroughly clean the commutator, both on the brush contact surface, segment ends and between the segments.. There are separators between the segments that soft so be careful to just clean the carbon out and not scrape away any of those insulating strips. Do the springs hold the brushes solidly in contact with the Comm. or is one or two weak? Have you checked the bearings/ bushings in the end bells to make sure they aren't worn allowing the armature to slop a bit? When I rebuilt my starter the brushes looked good but in fact they were worn considerably shorter than new and that caused then to not have solid contact with the commutator. Before replacing the brushes my starter had " flat spots".. Spots where the starter would not spin when the button was pressed.. a tap on the starter housing was usually all it took to make it spin again. That was due to the worn brushes. Your starter is considerably different from mine in the way the brushes are mounted. Mine were spring mounted in the holders while yours look to be solidly connected in them and relying on the holders themselves being spring loaded. Maybe all the starter needs is a thorough cleaning of the commutator. Try that , then if no improvement go from there to either buy a rebuilt unit or try a rebuild kit before biting the bullet for the far more expensive replacement starter.

No fuel bowl on fuel injected systems. Normally gas engines use a high pressure fuel pump (40 psi or more) to feed the injectors directly. Carburator fuel pumps run around 7 psi. to fill the fuel bowl. Carbs work on a vacuum system rather than a pressure one. I strongly suspect when it is sitting for a few days the fuel bleeds out of the line,possibly from an unnoticed small leak. If some air can enter the line it could cause an air lock and take a bit to clear. It takes a moment for the fuel to compress the air in the line and build pressure.The injectors only open for the time the control program says it normally needs so it can take several cycles to bleed the air out and actually deliver fuel to the cylinder(s)

I haven't found any free copies of the owners manual but have you tried searching on reviews of your Vinson.. I see several Youtube reviews listed that likely answer any questions you might have on its operation.

OK.. Fuel injection systems don't have a choke. They have a fuel enrichment setting in their control program. The log start after sitting may be from fuel bleeding out when sittinfor an extended period and it takes a bit for the fuel pump to bleed out air in the system and build injection pressure. All I can offer is guesswork on where to start troubleshooting but if it is otherwise reliable I wouldn't worry bout it. Honda does have a great reputation for reliable machinery. My own ATV is a 1991 Honda Fourtrax 300FW.

Does your quad have an automatic choke or a manual one? If automatic the choke may not be coming on resulting in slow starting when cold.

An actuator is a rigid set up. . You want some give on the plow blade when it hits something solid embedded or a curb.. Without that give you could seriously damage your machine or yourself. That's why blades on plow trucks and graders are allowed to " float".

Looks like that connection was rather "tired" to start with

To get an honest answer to your question on the CF Motos do a search on the internet and you'll find replies from owners and industry analysts without the " enemy / friend" spin. The company builds components for some "name brands" as well as their own machines.. I think you'll find the CF Motos fall right into the middle of the average ratings for all makes out there. Properly maintained they should be as reliable as most of the others, and they tend to offer a lot more for a lot less. Look at it this way.. If they offer you the same or more than name brand X but only last half as long , you can buy two of them with the same dollar outlay over the lifespan of the two and have them for at least as long as the one high priced one. Don't let politics interfere with fact and your choices.

My New Year's resolution years ago was to not make any more New Year's resolutions, and I've stuck by it ever since. Not much of a wine drinker here but it can be "concentrated" to make some nice liqueurs. 16 years retired here. I've developed quite the allergy to work and I'm definitely not looking for a remedy for it.

There is a service manual in the downloads section that covers that quad and related ones and also farther down the Polaris section is a wiring diagram for a 1999 Magnum that may be the same as the 1998. Download the manual or wiring diagram and print out the wiring diagram and use it to trace out the wires. Tedious job for sure. You'll need to look for a wire disconnect or a possible safety switch gone bad. I don't think the starter itself is any part of the problem.

Both Amazon and Temu have LED flashlight batteries in both the "drop in" and screw in bases. They are likely also available in hardware and sporting goods stores. If you get them for your flashlights and they don't seem to work, turn the batteries around and try again.. LED bulbs are directional and some flashlights are wired center contact negative instead of positive like most are .