Frank Angerano

I’m sure but I’m hoping that the bearing is not bad leaving play.  It may look ok but that means nothing.  Anyway check the valves like I said see how that goes.  

Got ya I know it slides out but I was wondering if you inspected it before you put it back together. 

Check that valve clearance like I said after that I’m stumped as to what the knock can be unless somethings not put back right ?

When you get the engine to top dead center and the T is in the small window on the flywheel and the marks are lined up on the cam sprocket with the head yiu are at top dead center.  Is there play in the valves ?

Just rotate the motor and watch the valve move up and down. When it gets to the highest and tightest spot then that’s the top of the lobe on the cam  feel how tight the valve is.  

The only knock I can think of was on my bayou 400 and it was where the cam sits. It’s called a journal where the cam sits.   The cam was actually hopping up and down. I should hope that’s not the problem.  

Here are a few pics of my old head where the cam sits. Did you take any pics or notice this condition ? 

I can’t imagine you would bend a valve. So try this, take the caps off the head and rotate the engine and watch the valves move slowly and see if they get too tight as you hit the top of the lobe on the cam or if they still feel loose at the top. Also check that the head is wet from oil pumping up. 

Yes sir music 🎶 is key beer too! 

Ok so what’s the tap sound like is it a low oil sound ? Tap tap ? Or a knock 

You can also take them valve cover caps off the head and start the bike for a minute. Just be prepared for a little smoke. Maybe you can see or hear better as to what’s going on.  

No it should be dry since that clutch works on friction. You def have to change that oil ASAP. Maybe run it a bit after you get it dialed in after the carb and other new parts are in, warm it up a bit and drop the oil and change before thinking about touching the clutch.   Because honestly even after that maybe one more time you should  change it again, that’s a good flush.  

That carb screw air fuel set it at 2-1/4 turns out from a snug position and start it up and see how it goes. If it’s not good go 1-1/2. Try that. If the engine starts up and is some what smooth right away then that’s the set point to start at.  Then a few slight adjustments from that point will dial it in good. Make sure you have the air filter and air box on before you make the adjustment. 

Once you get that engine tuned see how she runs and go from there. 

What’s the clicking like ? Is there a compression relief on the head ? And if so does it feel right ? 

Haha off a cliff??? Nah it’s not that bad. Lots of us get frustrated with this sort of thing so take a deep breath and regroup. 

Based on what you changed and then the carburetor rebuild kit going in if that does not fix then the drag sounds to be in the drive train. You will figure it out.  My guess is it’s the centrifugal clutch.  The springs that allow the clutch to expand aren’t doing so or are opening unevenly and grabbing improperly.  

Its pretty easy to open up the side cover and see what’s going on.  

That sucks @Airborne. The one box that was missing sh** and you wind up getting it!!!  

Story of my life lol. Well at least the company was receptive and accommodating. 

That’s what I think. And reason I said that is my buddy that did the same thing burnt up immediately! Same bike. So maybe it’s not that bad. 

You are welcome!!! Now let’s hope all that hard work turns out to be worth it.  This long distance troubleshooting thing is not easy 🤣 

Yea I see, wow it’s beat up.  Does it come out? I haven’t looked at the manual so I’m guessing right now. Have you looked or tried to remove it? Years ago I would drill though it and bolt it but it’s risky if your rough on the shifter because it takes away from the strength of the shifter rod. 

Hopefully you didn’t.   That’s why I sent the video. When in doubt go to the manual and YouTube.  That video is your engine so it really explains how it’s done. I could try to write and explain but video is the best. 

It may be oil injected also so if thats the case I’m curious if there’s too much oil going into the mix. Is there a lot of smoke ? 

Hey  @Jhyman1984 

Nice bike! So that’s a great little engine. 

90 psi is perfect.  I like the way you tore it down. I do the same thing whenever I get my hands on a new bike to fix up. 

So as far as the clutch what made you order a new one. Just to have it fresh ? I don’t think it’s the clutch but if the previous owner beat the crap out of it maybe. 

Does the drag feel like a power loss on the engine side or does the engine rev but no power like a drive train problem? 

The oem rebuild kit for the carb is the best way to go.  Make sure you take your time and refer to the manual for the fuel air mixture screw.  

Quick question. What’s your fuel/oil mixture? How are you mixing and what’s your ratio.  

Its not a complicated engin at all. So it won’t be that difficult to get back up to par. 

Ok let me know how it goes.   I’ve been curious to see how this whole thing turns out.

Ohhhh tight sorry. 

Post a pic of that. 

Adjust the valves as described and fire it up. See how it sounds.  It should be fine. 

Not sure about making it work via “redneck” style lol  if you are sure it’s bad and the bike is worth it then go for the replacement. 

What’s stripped the splines on the shaft itself? I would not weld it since the heat will prob kill the seal on the shifter. If you do weld make sure you disconnect the stator coil. It will fry! 

If you set the timing where it needs to be as described and all marks are lined up then your at top dead center. The valves can now be adjusted as per the manual recommended setting.  

What are you not sure of ?