Frank Angerano

That background looks great, I could only imagine riding let alone hunting out there! 

I think I may dedicate a little time this year to a few road trips !!!!

Well you can wire the lights to both come on, high beams and low together.  Thats really not a big deal.  But have you ever thought about putting an extra pair of lights maybe LED type ? With a switch or wire them in series with the low beams so you can have the low beams on with the new led’s as well? Bolt on type? 

Welcome to Quadcrazy @IDaman great pics!! Nice machine! 

You are very welcome! 

So let me get this straight. You want the high beams and low beams on at the same time ? 

Def get on that. I have a feeling that’s what your problem is.  👍

That’s like the Polaris I had same thing. I always kept up on grease and proper lubricant in the gear case. Have you double checked that ? 

It sounds like there is pressure on the drive train when you put the bike in park and it rolls back a hair before the park/drivetrain stops the bike. And when you go to put it in gear there is a lot of pressure on the axles.  

Try next time to come to a complete stop and lock the parking brake before you take it out of gear. And put it in gear before you take the brake off as well.  Maybe ? 

I know everyone comes here looking 👀for manuals and gets frustrated with the  10 post minimum  😢 to bad but it’s worth it trust me!!! So after you get your manual and use it here’s a topic  

To all the people that have worked on many types/models of ATVs  and used the repair manuals for the various types of manufacturers etc.  

Let me know if you have a problem finding it when you hit 10 posts.  I looked up the manual and your carb detail but can’t post the pic. I’m having some difficulty posting pics.  

Yes they can.  And your bike should be on the last page I think in that sub category.   

I will take a look and get back to you. Also keep in mind if the bike is sitting even for a short period of time the top of that pin gets a shellack type build up from the fuel sitting up there and could just be that.  So don’t necessarily look for a piece of dirt etc. could be just gook! 

Yes you are correct. 10 post and you can download.   It’s not that hard. Some people post garbage to get that capability but that’s a sucky thing to do. The site has a lot more to offer then just manuals.  That recons a good bike! I juts finished up one for my daughter.  I like that bike a lot.  

Hey nel welcome to Quadcrazy. 

That leak is an overflow condition caused by the either the float getting stuck, float pin has a piece of dirt stuck up at the top of the pin which is likely or the float has a hole in it ano good full of fuel (not likely)  

Make sure that the screw on the bottom of the bowl is not loose and leaking and appears to be the over flow hose draining.

Take the carb off and pull the bowl off of the carb and remove the pin and clean it out. Inspect the top of the pin for damage. 

Put the float back in and put a clean hose on the  fuel connection of the carb hold it up and blow into the fuel line and lift the float and see if it closes the air flow off. If so you should be good.  Also double check the air fuel mixture screw unless the bike is running good and it’s just the fuel leak that’s the problem.   

Welcome to Quadcrazy graham! 

So my guess would be that you kept loosing battery power after a certain time and wound up changing the battery thinking it’s a bad battery.   The new battery was working great up until it died as well.  It was prob not charging in the first place.  So you continually jumped the bike to start it ? If so there is a good chance you killed the stator coil inside the engine.  Most stator coils fail from only a few things

1. Someone welded on the bike without disconnecting the stator coil. Not your case I’m sure.

2. Continually  jump starting with a larger battery like a car battery or a jumper pack.  

I’m thinking your rectifier is prob bad causing your battery not to properly charge.

The rectorfier is releitivley easy and cheap enough to replace.   The stator is a little more involved. 

You can test both of these items before you buy anything new but I would say my guess is you burnt the stator out with all the jump starting and that has killed the spark.    Bad stator equals no spark.  

Yep that as well. The etc believe it or not was corroded and had moisture in the control.  The rev limiter was a hot mess.  Took the controls off and added a rip cord kill switch by passing both and the bike ran great.  

@wanrep so that little son of a bi*** etc had me going nuts on one of my older Polaris bike projects.  I could not figure it out for the life of me. It was brought to my attention by a member @davefrombc on this site that the etc could be giving me trouble.  Backfiring spitting etc. anyway I removed the part all together and that bike ran like a champ.  I would have been looking for quite some time before I figured that out.  @davefrombc 👍

Great topic.  

I grew up on two stroke engines. Learned on them as well.  I think they are great for the racing world and high revolutions.  As well as the simplicity of the engine design. 

The drawbacks are the noise which is obvious and the gas oil mixture the smoke from the exhaust and the maintenance I think is more frequent then the four stroke. 

I still get the urge to hop on one and start slamming gears every once in a while and hear the scream of the engine! 

I recently picked up a two stroke quad I can’t wait to tare into and ride. But if I had to choose I like the four stroke and would rather a four stroke. Especially with the new four stroke engines that Honda has been running on there dirt bikes. No gas/oil mixtures or injection process etc.

No just top dead center.  In that video I sent you it shows that you take the cam sprocket cover off. Bring the engine to TDC and make sure your timing marks are all aligned and use the feeler gauge and set them as per spec tighten good and you are done.  

And FYI the compression stroke is the cumbustion stroke. It easy to figure out. You take the valve caps off and slowly spin the engine.  You will see the intake valve (carburetor side) of the engine open up and then start to close as you continue rotating the engine. As soon as it closes all the way that’s the cumbustion point. The next revolution will be the exhaust stroke.  The exhaust valve (closest to the exhaust) will start to open.  

Have you checked the choke operation ? The cable going from the bars to the carburetor? Make sure that the choke cable is in good working condition and that the choke is working.  Move the choke lever while looking at the carb and you should be able to see that it’s moving.   

Lol 

No worries @Yamaha Grizzly Im sure you are all over getting that thing going again!!!!!!!!! So what went on the bike ? Tranny? Axle ? 

So you see how important the timing is because if that valve is open (down) into the cylinder and that piston comes up and slams into the valve ..... we’ll need I say more ? 

Thats what happens most of the time when a timing chain or belt breaks on an engine there is a catastrophic failure by either a bent valve or a piston with a hole or both  when the two moving components slam into eachoter 😢. 

Lol I’ve messaged admin, hoping they can help me out.  

Lol It’s not ignorance. One stroke the piston goes down and the intake valve the one on the carb side opens up and takes air fuel into the cylinder in and closes as the piston travels back up. At that tim and explosion happens bc the spark plug fires igniting the fuel/air. Boom 💥 sends the piston back down driving the engine and Coleman back up and the exhaust valve opens closest to the exhaust letting out the exhaust! 

This is the same premis but fuel injected.  Nothing changes just look at this as if a carburetor is where the injector is.