Frank Angerano

Yes that is the starter circuit  relay. So that should have a green, brown and two black wires on it? 

It should be a little quicker then 45.  I have a feeling when you get it all back together it will run better and quicker then that.  

As for the blue smoke 💨 I would think the seals and rings will take care of that.  You CANT fix low compression with an adjustment on the carburetor!!!!  

So hopefully you make some progress and get it back together and ready to roll before some snow comes down! 

Ok so maybe it’s the actual start button?   The manual can be down loaded in the download sections after you have 10 or more posts in the forum.  Some people post garbage and don’t contribute to the site in order to get to 10 posts.  Please don’t be one of them.  I will look at my manual as I have the same bike and currently going throug the harness to better understand my bike. So before we start are you familiar with trouble shooting ? Test light ? Tester ?  

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232485952821

Are there lights on the dash when you turn the key on ?

On the solenoid there is a small rubber cap and there is a fuse. Have you checked that as well ?

I can see by the color it looks as if there’s coolant in the oil.  So now it’s on to find out where it’s coming from! 

I could sit here and explain it to you but your better off going to you tube and seeing how it’s done. It’s not hard at all and you won’t damage the valves.   Just make sure that you pot the valve back in the same hole it came from.   I mentioned in my earlier posts about getting a tool that helps you compress the valve.  You can buy one for about $15 on amazon or go to your local auto store and rent one etc.   

Clean  the valve good before you put it back in. 

Was the impeller spinning or just the shaft?  I’ve seen the same thing and when the bike was being cranked the owner was able to hold the impeller and the shaft spun not the impeller  so make sure that the shaft and impeller are not slipping   

That back end of that shaft looks chewed up. What goong on in there ?

Heve yiu checked the oil ? Any coolant in there ? 

That seal on the back of that impeller looks shot and could be leaking fluid into the crank case.   

I’m not sure about the build up holding the valves open. I don’t think that would be the case.   You can check the clearance but you won’t be able to check the valve seals visually so I would think having the head off would be the most ideal time to change the seals.  It would really suck to find out your seals are bad after all this work. So I would change them.  But that’s up to you.   

Yea brother I think it’s a pump issue. Never know but that’s where my guess is. The good thing about these problems are the limited things it can be when it comes to a water cooled system so get after it and narrow it down so we can get this figured out and get back to riding!!!  Let us know how you make out.  

It’s not supposed to really go over 160 I would think on a good day. Have you checked the oil for color ? And also is there a leak you are not seeing ? And the water pump... you should see that coolant flowing with the cap off the radiator after it’s good and hot. If not I’m thinking the water pump. And the seal on the water pump as well and that’s why your loosing coolant. 

Ok great.  What about the water pump it could be possible that there is no circulation? You can buy an infrared thermometer and shoot the head to see temperature under the same circumstances. 

There can only be a few things going on here 

1. Thermostat 

2. Water pump

3. Cooling fan/temperature sensor that brings fan on.

If you have a bad head gasket the oil will be discolored (greyish) in the crank case and a lot of white smoke.  

Have you checked to see that the cooling fan is coming on ? And if so is the radiator clean ? Also look up and see if the engine shuts down on the hot side. When it’s at that point is it killing he engine. And btw dam that’s fast ! Slow down a bit brother! 

As far as the nasty build up goes I like to use carb cleaner or starting fluid.  Put it in a rubber bin or bucket and spray the sh** out of it.  The gunk falls right off, I use a small brush as well. 

Wipe It down good with wd-40 when you are done.  

Ok I would reset the tab in the area it was originally and go with my method of the float settings.  

I looked at where my screw is on the bike and 1-3/4 is where I have mine set but all bikes are different but you are 100% in the right range for that bike.   When that float goes at about 95% to the top the pin closes.  

Blow into it to verify that its properly closing just to be safe anyway.  

You have to realize that the bike has to be adjusted as if it were rideable and completely put back together for instance you would not ride the bike without the air box so it has to be in place when making adjustments. 

Your doing great.  Taking a minute and stepping away really helps out. As it can get frustrating.   

Once you get it figured out and dialed in it’s going to run like a champ! 

Nice work on the bike!

So the air box should be on the bike when making the adjustment to the air fuel mixture screw.  Did you turn the screw all the way in until snug and then 2-1/4 turns out ? I had the same issue in my 220 last week and finally got it dialed in.  It took me about a half hour to get it perfect. But the air box has to be installed and the lid on the air box. 

The float on the bowl, What do you mean you adjusted to spec? That tab on that float that sends the needle up to close fuel off to the carb may be adjusted to far up. The carb will be starved for gas so make sure you didn’t do that.  

I always take the carb out attach a clean hose on the fuel line and hold the carb up with out the bowl on it. I blow into it and lift the bowl with my finger and when it gets just about all the way up it shuts and I can’t blow through the hose any longer. That’s something I’ve learned over time as to finding a sweet spot and to not overflow. I know they say there’s a spec on where it should be but sometime you have to have a feel for this sort of thing. 

New spark plug ? Have you checked the rubber boot that the carburetor attaches to for any cracks that might be sucking air in?  And check your spark quality while you have the plug out.  

Let me know how you make out please. 

Lol well let’s hope that’s your biggest mistake !  Take some pics of possible. 

Whats yiur plan with the valve seals ?

It’s not really necessary to use the gasket adhesive. And I was going to remind you to NOT forget the gasket! Sorry. 

How’s it going ? 

You should not need it. Just line the rings up and squeeze them as you slide the cylinder head down into the sleeve.  

Take pics for reference, label things, fresh razor blades and stay calm !!

Oil the sh** out of the piston and rings. Unless you just want to change it bc it’s torn down already. Buy a honer from the auto parts store and pop it in the drill and go to town on the cylinder. New gaskets, slap it back together with a fresh plug and fire it up!  Change the oil as well.

i just ordered a complete gasket set for that same bike $38 on amazon.

the only thing I would recommend is to change the valve seals since it’s all apart and they come with the gaskets anyway. 

great pics

It’s always a risk when buying from another person.  I always bring a few tools along to open up a few things on the bikes I buy if they allow it and why shouldn’t they if there’s nothing to hide? A wire brush to clean a vin# so you can do a quick run on it to verify year model etc. But karma is a bi***! What goes around comes around! 

Better off anyway bc if he can’t jet a carb then you sure as sh** don’t want him banging out cams!!!! 

Your topics will probably be merged but should that head not be freed up as per my last post then spray the exhaust bolts now with penetrating oil in hopes that they will come off when you have to pull them off for the head removal.  

Welcome to Quadcrazy. I would pull the plug @viper0906 and spray some wd-40  or some penetration oil inside the cylinder head and let it sit for a day or so then warm the head up with a heat gun and try to spin the engine with the plug out.  

Hopefully the head frees up and it’s not seized.  

Also @Squirrel keep in mind that the cylinder head on the top right side has a compression relief lever that should be used when pull starting. Press the lever down and it should stay until you pull the engine cord.  

It will automatically reset it self so be sure to push it again before pulling the cord or your shoulder will be sorry!