Frank Angerano

@wanrep ugh I hope that’s not the case here. I’m hoping Its only in the switch.  

I looked at the manual and correct me if I’m wrong. The green wire is the neutral safety interlock.  It is shown on the drawing that when the bike is in neutral the green wire is grounded.  That brings in the relay wich has a brown +12 positive wire on one side of the relay and the green when in neutral sends the -12 negative allowing relay to engage and the two black wires in the same relay to make contact completing the ignition circuit/control panel.  

I grounded the green wire and the relay comes right in allowing the bike to crank/fire up. I ground the red wire and the reverse light indicator comes on so the red does the same thing except it’s for the reverse/light indicator. 

Make sense ? 

This is a manual to a bigger bike but the harness is the same.  

It sounds like it’s the starter is bad.  Replacing the brushes is a cheap repair so hopefully that’s it. 👍  If the problem still exists then it may be the actual starter itself and that’s cheap enough to change as well.   In the mean time if you’ve loosened and tightened all connections to make sure any corrosion is off ? as well as the main fuse just pull it out, clean and reinstall,  then the last item it could be is the start button not making a solid contact when pressed.  This is possible if the bike has been sitting outside  moisture gets inside the controls oxidizing the copper contacts. 

Can’t hurt to try. But def check for spark first so you are not pissing into the wind. Most bikes that have been sitting loose spark due to the cdi having moisture in it that happens over time.  

The stator coil sometime  could go bad if you try to jump start it with a car or to big a power pack. 

Or it could be all fine with the exception of a dirty carb, old gas and a dirty gas tank! 

Check the fuse by the starter relay.  

Bottom line is go over it all.  We will help you out so get after it and pick some tools and a starting point.  

👊🏻

I hear ya @06kfx440 but this bike is for my youngest. I need it to be right for him and I have it all apart (plastics off) just to clean it up so might as well get into it before they all go back together.  It’s also the reverse light as well  the switch does both.  The bike is also in excellent condition so I feel it’s worth the effort. 

Btw @06kfx440 wait till you see my next few posts   I picked up a mint Mojave in a barn that was just sitting there. Dirt cheap  put it in my other garage until I wrap this one up. Going to put it up on the forum in the next two weeks or so.  I have no need for it as it’s not my type of bike but it was so clean I couldn’t say no! Those two stroke days are over. But my oldest boy is in love 😍 and begging me to keep it. I’m starting  to think I have a real problem! It’s every day I’m looking for a new old bike! 

This is the bayou that I picked up below. 

The previous owner an older gentleman who loved to hunt owned a body shop and had the plastics sprayed in a booth jet black. 

I took the big seat off the back and stripped it down to the wheels and frame right now as a usual thing I do whenever I pick a bike up. 

Should be pretty sweet when it’s wraped up!

Outstanding @wanrep thank you and holy sh** that sucks. I had a feeling I i was going to have to tear into it.   I would say the hell with it and leave it be but that’s not me. Ok then first order of business is the gaskets and switch.  Where did you pick the switch up? 

I wonder what actually fails in that switch.  

I’m looking for any member that may be familiar with the neutral safety switch on this bike.   

I picked up a bayou 220 that I found sitting in a shed. Nice looking bike the guy said it would not start one day and put it away and never touched it again.  

So it turns out the neutral safety switch is bad.  I jumped it out and the bike fired up and runs good.  

I’m more then capable of the work in changing it but this thing is buried pretty good. I’m curious if anyone has done the switch replacement before? 

I attached some pics to see.

picture 1 is the side view you can see the green and red wires going into the cover. 

Pic 2 shows looking down on the drive shaft coming out of that cover.  That is not a simple cover you just pull off. 

Im wondering how deep and how much sh** has to come off like the drive shaft etc for this switch  to be replaced. 

So if any of the QC members have done this switch I’m looking for any input with regard to changing it.  

Thanks. 

Welcome to Quadcrazy, you will have to start with the usual suspects first.  

As far as spark goes the kill switch, battery etc and inspection of the wiring.

Pull the spark plug out of the engine and plug it back into the spark plug wire and crank the engine while holding the bottom metal part of the plug against the metal part of the head of the engine.  You should see a spark by the plug, if so great!

Second is the fuel.  Has the bike been sitting? And if so was the bike drained and ran out of gas before it was sitting.  If not then I would think the carburetor is full of old junked up fuel.  That will need to come off and be taken apart, cleaned etc. if your not familiar with this work there is u tibe and this forum to help you along.  

Welcome to Quadcrazy. 

Good morning!!!!! Last day of work before a long weekend. I want to wish everyone a safe and  happy thanksgiving! 🦃 

You can.  I don’t don’t use one only bc I have done it so many times.  If your not fimillar then maybe so.   It’s just a matter of squeezing the rings as they slide into the cylinder head.  The bottom of the cylinder head is tapered for the rings to slide in. 

There is a tool that goes on the drill that hones the cylinder. Just to clean it up. Maybe take a look at that.  

Spray the exhaust bolts now with penetration oil so they have time to soak.  

Just be patient with the work. Don’t push to hard.  Things break and you can get frustrated and drink a lot of beer. 

Oh and music helps too! 

Good socket set metric with a swivel joint, Allen keys, open end wrench set, rubber mallet, razor blade and holder the kind that scrapes, feeler gauges for valves. 

I like a wire wheel that goes in a drill to help clean up parts. I use a soft bristle wire wheel.

A few small bins for all the parts and painters tape and sharpie to mark what’s what.  

Also a piece of tie wire to hold the timing chain from falling into the engine.

gasket adhesive, latex gloves and some fresh oil.   

Take a few pics before for reference when reassembling. 

What are the marks on the piston.  Did you scrape it like that, is that a crack ? Maybe spray it with starting fluid to clean it up  Did the valve hit the piston ? 

After you clean it up with the starting fluid be sure to spray the cylinder head with WD-40 to lube it back up before you move the piston up and down.   

And it never got past 60 psi ? 

So that’s a bit of a problem.  It was prob ran hard.   I would think a new set of valve seals, piston and rings are required to bring that compression back to where it belongs. 

So try one more thing.  Spray some windex around the head gasket areas and around the top part of the engine and crank it. See if bubbles show up if so the head gasket may be leaking.

Some time people beat the crap out of the bikes and kill the piston and rings.  

I guess at this point you have to make a decision on how much you want to spend time wise and money wise.  Is the bike completely in tact and worth fixing etc.  

It’s a good experience to learn on but that’s up to you. 

Me I would do it because the bike will run forever after that. But it also has to be a compete bike not bastardized!  

If the bike is all together and all parts are there I would go for it if you have a few extra bucks to do it and some knowledge of motors.   

Can’t see the pic.   

When doing a compression test you have to crank for about 5 to 8 seconds to get an accurate reading. 

Your compression gauge should have had a red zone and a green zone.  Where did the needle end up ? And how long did you crank etc? 

Should be about 170 lbs if I’m not mistaken.  

So I looked and it’s not the Fuel it’s a vent hose.  I can’t tell where it’s going without removing the tank or daylight so I can find out exactly where It goes for you tomorrow.

i pulled up the manual and have attached a pic so you can see.   

Click on the pics and zoom in, you can see its shows it’s a vent hose. I just dont remember where it goes off the top of my head.  

I’m going to take a look at my bike just to be sure give me a few 

Is the new carburetor an oem or aftermarket? We seem to go through this a lot with oem versus cheap replicas.  They don’t work very well.   The oem carb as long as it’s only a dirty/clogged carb it’s nothing a good soaking and cleaning could not fix. Must be taken apart and properly cleaned. 

Is this something you can do? It’s not hard.

Bottom one is a drain/overflow hose. It should be routed down through the bottom of the bike and just sits open at the bottom for fuel over flow if the carb floods for any reason.    

The next one if I’m not mistaken is the fuel line connection.   I have the bear tracker   I will try to take a look when I get home for you. 

I would think they would be set but having the top end off and during the reassembly it can’t hurt to throw a gauge on and see how they are.  You never know and don’t want to go back and find out later.

I love the old bikes! Easy to work on for the most part.  Repairs are usually not costly and if they are maintained they can run forever. Just picked up a 1998 bayou 220 today for a really good price.   

You were about to swamp the thing last week! 

This would be a great bike to learn on.  It’s not that deep. Are you mechanically inclines at all ? 

I think you can do it! 

Hahahaha the hammer test.  That’s a new one. So my guess is that the fuel in the bowl of the carburetor is being used up and then being starved for fuel hence the bike shutting down. So I would think the fuel delivery to the carburetor is restricted somehow.   I would make sure the fuel delivery from the tank/gas valve, through the pump is working correctly.  Take the fuel line off of the carb and aim it into a can of some sort, pull the spark plug wire ao the bike won’t start and crank the bike and see what kind of flow you have coming from fuel line. If it’s flowing good then that’s great. If not start working your way back. 

 A lot of times when you do all the cleaning of the carb and tank etc sometimes a piece of leftover junk in the tank can get into a jet, float pin etc.  it sucks but can happen.

You can also get a small fuel tank and connect it to the carburetor and let gravity feed the carb, start the bike up and see if it runs steady.  

We all go to fuel, poor spark etc. This was a good find both as a problem solver and Info going foreword to help others.  I personally would have never thought that problem existed.  

It just shows how valuable a site like Quadcrazy is ! 💪