Frank Angerano

Awesome! Going to swap it out or going to open it up and try to it play with it ?

Amazon has it $20 !

Great find brother.  Nice work.   

So this relay. If you were to put 12 volts on these two tabs the relay should make a click sound.  Then with a tester the two smaller tabs should have continuity across them. 

Power comes off the continuity will be lost.  

I want you to be sure what your jumping out so you don’t blow any fuses.  

When power is applied to that relay it closes the instrument/starting circuit so you have dash lights and a start circuit. The two smaller tabs that have continuity are the two wires you would jump to see if the bike fires. 

That R2 and L/W try to jump them out quickly and see what happens.  I’m thinking your dash will come on.  

Yes you can jump the two with the key on for a second and see if the dash lights come on 

The brake handle has to be in and locked also as a safety I think ? 

The two outer larger pins on that relay plug 

yes the relay would stop the dash from coming on.  Is this your relay ?

Off you can snap a few pics of the relay and any other connections ignition switch etc and post them.  What color wires are you looking at ? 

My feeling is It’s a power failure someplace in a safety maybe ? Neutral safety switch or a soaked relay.  

Yes the relay would stop the dash lights from coming on.

That relay has four wires on it ? Colors ? 

There are two I think.  One by handle bars and one in the rear I think?   

On the ignition what color wires have power? Should only be the red coming in and the brown going  out when key is on.   

Any luck ? 

I have in the past put the piston in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes, taken it out and repeated the steps.  Then soak it in penetrating oil. The heat and cooling makes the metal expand and contract loosening the rings.  You can use a small torch but be careful not to keep the flame to close for to long.   

Your ignition switch should have a red wire going to it ? If so is there 12v+ on that wire?The red wire when the ignition turns on should send 12 v + to the brown wire which goes to a splice of about 10 brown wires and that should distribute power to the rest of the bike. 

Also have you double checked the main ground for a broke connection or corroded as well. 

So here’s  a stupid question. That bike should have a tether switch on the back ? Have you checked that by any chance ? 

1 to see if the switch is swamped and soaked

2 the wires going to it are not burnt up or corroded? 

So what’s going on as far as the wiring? Dead, crank but no spark, spark but not cranking with the starter ? 

What year is the bike ?

Welcome to Quadcrazy mike! You will find what you need here to get your bike/bikes squared away and running again.  As a new member you are required to have at least 10 posts on the site before you can download a manual.   Which I’m sure if your into the quads like you say then it won’t  be a problem as this site/forum has a ton to offer in technical support as well as member support. Some of which  have had the same type or similar problems and can really help. 

Nice work brother you are very welcome! I’m glad it worked out. Don’t be a stranger to Quadcrazy.  After a few more posts you will be able to download the manual for that bike and have a better understanding of the wiring etc!  As well as maybe helping out the next guy! Hope the boy enjoys the bike and tell him to be safe while riding. 

Frank  

Def rich if it’s black but I think it’s only going to need to be taken apart and cleaned and properly adjusted on the air fuel screw. But make sure that screw is in good shape. A lot of them over time have the tip bent or heavily scratched.  But I think that carb should be ok on that bike.  

As far as the bike being worked on yes and it was pretty extensive if the frame was painted which means the bike was completely  taken apart.   Just have to hope it was done by someone that knows what they were doing.  

Keep constantly looking on eBay. A pull start will pop up one day for the right price.  And heck one of the memebers here may even stumble across one of them.  

You will also find the seat cover on eBay as well. 

Good luck with the bike. 

Gotcha.  

Wow nice little find there.  I’ve never seen a red frame on the Honda’s. So my guess it’s been sprayed.  An sprayed by someone who knows what they were doing I would assume.  You can buy a new seat cover and prob find the pull start on eBay but I bet that pull start will be at least $200 !!!😢 

As for the carb the kehien carb sounds correct for that bike since they were famous for the gas valve built right into the carburetor but not 100% sure but again maybe eBay for the manifold and the carb used ? 

As for the faded plastics if you are careful and know how to use a heat gun you can bring the plastics back to the original  red. But try a small spot first.  

A lot of people look for that type of bike to restore as well as the three wheelers.  

Depends on how much you want to put into it I guess is the question now. 

Here’s a shot from the print. Look at the colors and let me know if you have any questions.   Hope it helps.  

🤷🏻‍♂️

If you have a ground to the light green and 12v on the brown the neutral safety switch is good.  You should loose the ground when you put the bike in gear that’s what the safety is for.  

The next place to look will be the start button.  Look for the wires on the handle  bars that come from the push start control and follow them down to the white plug. 

Look for the wires I mentioned in my earlier response at that plug, test them with a meter or test light so you can rule out that portion of the wiring and go from there. 

Have you gotten any more work done on the bike ? 

Wow great bike I had one way back in the day. 

Thats a lot of parts you changed.

So the pick up coil should be connected to the harness and is set to deliver the spark to the bike when it’s timed correctly. The spark comes from the wiring system and delivered to the  ignition coil. The trigger coil is there to deliver that spark at a set time.  The ohms test you did puts that part in a good range so I would say it’s ok. The stator you soad was tested and came back good ? How did you test that ? That’s important. 

And the new cdi you have installed, Is it an oem or cheaper aftermarket? 

Lastly is your wiring system.  It’s possible that the system is grounded somehow killing the ignition system.  

Have you gotten onto the harness where the kill switch wires are and tested that by putting a tester across the two wires with your tester on continouity and see if you have continuity when you move the switch to on and off. Maybe that kill switch is broken.  

Don’t be fooled my two wheel drive quads have always done good in the snow as long as they have the right tires on the bike. I use a good almost like a paddle tread on the rear and good knobby fronts for turning.   

I also have the same set up on my daughters recon you can see pics on one of my previous posts.  I just wrapped up  about three or four weeks ago and they did great upstate in the snow.  Don’t get me wrong I love the 4x4 but if you have a 2x4 then the tires are everything! 

The part you’ve been jumping out is the starter solenoid, that should have two large wires that come from the battery and starter. (The ones you have been jumping)  There should also be a small fuse under a rubber cap and three wires  on it. A white a black and a black and yellow. The black is your trigger coming from the start button.   

None of which will work if the circuit is not complete like a safety holding it out etc. on my bike it was the neutral safety switch  that held out the cranking of the bike. Your problem may be different  but could be.  All I did was put a small jumper wire from ground to the light green wire on that small round relay with the rubber boot and the bike cranked and started.  You can try that  and see if it works. The brown wire on that same relay should have 12 positive, if not you can jump that from a 12v positive and see what happens but only if you don’t have the 12v present  on the brown with the key on! 

The other thing is the start button, they do go bad  and need to be cleaned or taken apart/replaced . You can find these wires coming from that start button harness just under the front plastic  there is a plug that comes from your switch  yellow/ red wire and a black. When you put a tester on both of them wires and press the start bottom you should have continuity on them (ohms) or use a test light and you should have 12 v on one when the key is on and 12v on the other when the start button is pressed. 

So with the ignition on you should have 12v positive on the brown wire. 

The green wire is going to the neutral safety switch that wire is essentially a ground.  You can test the green wire to a ground and see if the bike cranks with the starter button.  

If you don’t have 12v positive on that brown wire then you have to trace it back to the ignition where it gets power from.   

After that we need to look at two wires coming from the start button. I will explain what wires to test after that.