Mech

It can't rev if no air is getting in, so, yup, check the throttle cable first, that's the most likely, then check the butterfly is actually closed off and not either bent or being held open by the idle speed screw. If the throttle/butterfly is closed then check the inlet manifold isn't leaking.

I'd try and figure why the three bolts broke, and what that might have damaged.

Ha yeah that's what I was thinking. You're going to get it going and be looking for something to mow. You might just have to think up reasons to drive it around... To the store maybe.

Did you change the cam timing when you replaced the starter clutch ? And are you saying the cam timing is changing from where you had set it to ? And what's the play in the crank ? What direction is this play ? The starter clutch shouldn't effect end float or rotational play in/of the crank.

Very good. Hope you're letting the grass grow.. ready for it.

Gee.. And I thought honda designed things nicely. Perhaps your hands are too big ? I'm fairly small and my hands only just squeeze in some places. I could see someone with big hands finding a lot of jap stuff a bit cramped.

Yeah I can't think of any way the sprag could damage the gears though, not without over revving the starter motor. I think the gear problem was the starter only working on half the gear width. There are sprags in car starters and they sometimes make a bit of noise on the over-run but be fine. And they have sprags in auto trans and they get filled with clutch plate and metal sometimes, but clean out and pass inspection to be used again.. They are super reliable things.

Oh ok. I have heard a noise like you are describing, a growl/whizzing sound between when you let the button off and before the starter stops turning.. That is quite likely from the sprag, but I've known bikes to do it for years without any troubles.. Your the man on the spot and best qualified to make the call but I think I'd just monitor that and ride it more hoping it either stops or the bike starts starting easier and so the noise gets to be less of an issue. If it persisted load or got worse, then I'd pull it apart and inspect it. It's possibly caused by the engine reving at start up. I think a lot of bikes make the sound, but we mostly don't notice if the bike starts first press and at an idle. If we use the throttle and it starts with a rev they make the noise longer and we notice. Maybe.

Rolling down a hill backwards sounds normal, and being able to push it backwards in gear but not forwards sounds normal, but that "normal" implies the sprag clutch in the centrifugal, for engine braking, should be working, so it's strange the engine braking isn't working because it sounds like it is when you can push it backwards but not forwards. If you put it in reverse you should be able to push it forwards but not backwards if the sprag is working. The starter sprag must be locking up if the starter can turn the engine, and if it was jammed solid and not slipping once the engine started, then you'd know about that by now, the poor old starter motor would have been doing about six times the revs it was designed for, and it would have almost certainly have blown up.. haha.. or made some terrible noise/vibration/smell.

Good work. Careful riding bikes with a pull cable throttle... and no brakes.

Good bit of information there Bub, but I think it'll get lost in this thread.. Or maybe not, there are better searchers than me. I had a look at the wiring diagrams and it looks like only the auto models have those three diodes in the fuse box. I'll have to have a better look one day and see what they do. Well done on getting it sussed..

i just had a quick look in the two manuals i have for models similar to your's and I see they don't mention the stamped in numbers I say it should have, so you'll just have to identify your model carefully then set the carb as the book says. And I see they only give a fuel level, not a float level.. That's a complication because you need to check the level with the carb still fitted to the bike, and you have to choose where against the carb body they mean when they say to set the fuel 2mm below the carb body.. The carb body's bottom surface is going to be on an angle. I'd measure the fuel level where it would be around the main jet I think, then adjust it by trail and error till it seemed right.

Yup well find the numbers on the original carb and look that specific carb up in a genuine service manual and it will tell you what and how to set the float to and what size every jet and needle should be. Not all engines are the same and carbs are made and set up for very particular engines. The after market carb they sell you might fit on the bike, but they are never set up and tuned for any particular model.

Oh yeah, a new seat would be a luxury.. I've got a sack over mine.

Yeah I'd try to get the original cleaned and set. They set them up just for the bike they are going to put them on. If you set the float height just as the book says and clean and check all the jets are the right ones for that very specific carb number, not just cv24 cast on. but something like two letters and two numbers stamped into a flat part of the carb body, then you know it's all set for that bike and it's carb angle and engine and everything. If you fit a carb that's made to sit flat onto an engine that mounts it's carb at an angle, then you are looking for problems.

I use two sets of gauges and let the magnets clamp it, then tighten the bolts, then wrestle the feelers out. I've done one pole at a time though and it works fine. This thing's going to run like a dream.. Inline twin, probably sound like a honda twin bike. 180,540 degree firings. 180 degree crank pins.

Good stuff. The carb looks good. No corrosion's a win, And I'm glad to hear the new coil was the cure. It pretty much had to be since there's no other parts to the ignition... well there are magnets I guess. Looking good Gw. Another honda on the... grass.

Good work. You can test the plate clutch, and use it like a manual clutch, by shifting up or down so you are in the gear you want to be in, but hold the lever with your toe, don't let it go back the the center position. Then, if you need to jump up out of a ditch or over a log, or to drop a wheely to get moving in bad mud or on a steep hill, you rev the engine and let the lever up or down.. It works like dropping a manual clutch lever on the handlebars.

Well this is useful.. "NOTE:_ Holding in the “TRIP/ODO” button and then turning the key to “ON” switches the display between “mph” and “km/h”.". And this... '1. Override switch “OVERRIDE” EBU13781 Override switch “OVERRIDE” Top speed is normally limited when operating in 4WD-LOCK. If conditions require more en- gine power when riding forward, push and hold this switch to override the 4WD-LOCK speed limiting function. (See page 4-11 for a detailed explanation about the differential".

You should get the owners manual and read that because the diff lock might be a safety feature, or a safety feature playing up, but it might have some clue. Check the brake switches, too, those interfere with running if they are playing up. Could be the two are interconnected with some safety feature.. It might be that you are only meant to operate diff lock at very low speed or gear too.. The not shifting into gear straight away sounds like low idle and no drag in the centrifugal clutch to make the gear's revolve slowly which normally let them align and slip in when you move the lever. If they go into gear if you rock the bike back and forwards a little after you've moved the lever, then it's doing the same thing, rotating gear shafts. If that works then I wouldn't worry about it. Check the idle speed. The owners manual will probably tell you how to set the speedo's language etc.

That run away down hill symptom sounds like your sprag clutch in the centrifugal clutch isn't working. The clutch adjustment is adjusting the linkages between your shift lever and a plate clutch. The plate clutch is to stop the gears getting mangled when you do a gear change at speed, when the centrifugal clutch is locked up. When you move the shiftlever up or down it disengages the plate clutch. When you are going down hill the plate clutch and then centrifugal clutch are both transmitting the over run to the engine giving engine braking. One the bike slows enough that the engine revs get near idle speed the centrifugal clutch lets go, and the bike would start to run away down hill(as your's is), so to prevent that run away situation they have a one way ratchet(sprag clutch) in the center of the centrifugal clutch that lets the gearbox shaft turn the engine whenever the engine is rotating slower than the gear shaft. That gives you engine braking right down to a stop. The way to test the sprag is put the bike in gear with the engine off and try to push it forwards. If the sprag is working it will try to turn the engine over.

And make sure your battery's tied down. If they can bounce, they hammer, and it wrecks them.. It can also strain/break wires.

Dunno.. Air intake maybe ?

Good one. They also have bead sealer which helps stop slow leaks if the rims are rusty. 544 views and 8 replies.. We can see you lurkers... We know who you are...

Yeah bad design there. That pipe's got a seam along it, both of them do, and it's right around the outside of the bend. It's well known that exhausts always burn out on the outside of the bends. They should have that seam at the sides, (two piece bend), or on the inside.. That's rather alarming that they would do that.. They would have known better. I gotta say that the Japanese are really hot on customer satisfaction and they are fastidious about getting things really right. That and their very cooperative and collaborative attitudes and practices, and they come up with amazing good machinery.