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jcole1325

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About jcole1325

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  • Birthday 08/16/1959
  1. jcole1325

    jcole1325

  2. Thanks. I've been asked in the past what I've done to fix my performance problem--but never been able to give a solution. JC
  3. Finally got my 89 Warrior right. A couple of years ago I rebuilt a 89 Warrior for a motorcycle class I took. The engine was blown and I got it for $300. Anyway, after rebuilding the engine and putting it all together, I got it running. But it never ran well. I rebuilt the carb over and over--with new carb kit. The carb was from an 87 Warrior but the carb parts were almost identical. The quad just never ran with power. After talking with many knowledgable people, we sort of figured out it was running lean. But why? Factory jets and 4,500 feet above sea level should be more than enough. Last year I decided to spend money and took it to the local Yamaha shop. The had for 2 months and had 2 mechanics look at it. They got a flat spot worked out but it still had no power. It cost me only a $150 for many, many hours of labor, tuning and adjustments. It still had no power. In December, I called a local shop with a dynometer. They specialized in high-performance tuning, rebuilding and troubleshooting. Street 2 Sand, Reno, Nevada. After the dyno emissions test, the air/fuel ratio was WAY lean. Over 18 to 1. They replaced the jets over many iterations. Got it going strong and dyno'ed for horse power, too. Anyway, it now runs pretty good. The idle jet needs to be increased in size to give it a little more power off idle, but otherwise a whole new machine. Thanks STS. Anyway, I have spare idle jets (at 0.009 inches) and I'll get someone to increase them by a thousands increment on 2 jets. Thats all. Jim in Reno
  4. GearHead01 and DirtDemon, Thanks. I have tested the float, in gas. I'll try the plug test again, but your way. And as for the head rebuild, that is a good idea and not a bad price. Thanks.
  5. I agree on the head. $159 to rebuild with cam might be the way to go. Thanks.
  6. I check the float in the bowl with gas. I will try the wide-open test again. I didn't do it quite like you said.
  7. No luck. Nothing seems to work. Back to square one. My friend suggested the cam might be worn causing it not to pull enough air in to the carb. Thoughts? It is an old quad, 1989, I did nothing to the head when I rebuilt the engine. Is there a way to test or measure the vacumn/pressure created by the engine. I can take the head apart but I'd like to do it with some confidence that is where the problem lies. Recap: It sputters at mid throttle. If I spray carb cleaner in the air bleed hole, it runs ok for a minute. If I shut the peacock valve off, it runs good just before it runs too low on fuel. So the problem is not enough air is getting pulled into the carb.
  8. Yes and no. It seems that the engine runs fine as long as the bowl is not allowed to fill/overfill. When it fills/overfills (but nothing is going out the overfill tube) the gas level stops air from coming through the air bleed hole efficiently. If I put my finger over the air bleed hole while the engine is running at mid throttle, nothing happens. If I spray carb cleaner, using a long nossle, and shoot it in the air bleed hole (pushing the gas level down) the engine runs fine for about 15 seconds then the sprutting returns. I think the o-ring around the float needle valve seat/jet is leaking and allowing the level to get to high. Why gas is not running out the overflow tube, I don't know. As far as the float level, I've checked this many times, 11.4 mm to 12.?? mm, and it seems OK. Also, I've adjusted up and down to no effect. I have re-installed the o-ring and checked it for leaks by blowing into the fuel line and moving the float. Tonight I'll reinstall the carb onto the quad and I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks.
  9. It's the air bleed going to the emulsafier (needle jet/main). I did like you said and cleaned it with a wire, also carb cleaner. The hole is small, but I've never had this problem before. Why it started, I have no idea. Anyway, I've inspected it 6 ways to sunday so I know it is clean. Tonight I'll install and run it. The real test is waiting a few days and running it again. Thanks.
  10. Thanks. Good questions. No smoke when it sputters. Yes, I completely cleaned the tank (soap and water) and peacock valve, including both screen inlets inside the tank. If I hold on the spot, it sputters. If I throttle up fast, it’s a flat spot. If I throttle up hard, you can't tell, maybe a slight miss. Diaphragms? Are you talking about the coasting diaphram? I took it apart and cleaned it. The accelerator pump spray nosel is clear (it shoots directly into the carb, is that the correct direction?) The carb kit was for an ’89 (because I didn’t know it had an ’87 carb at the time I bought it). A friend said it may be the air bleed hole going to the needle jet is clogged. Which explains why it is running to rich. I’ll check it tonight, but I’ve sprayed carb cleaner in about every hole, jet, port, crack, cranny, and opening I can find.
  11. When I get to mid throttle (slide is 1/2 way up) the engine sputters. All other ranges are fine. It all started back when my gas cap was not tight and all the gas evaporated. Sputter problem has remained since then. If I fully clean the carb, install it, it runs good, but the next day, the sputter returns. When it is cold, no sputter, but returns as engine warms. When the peocock valve is turned off, the sputter stops, then it runs out of gas (that tells me the sputter is caused by running to rich, right?). Things I've done but problem returns. -disassembled carb (about 10 times) and cleaned all jets, passages, rechecked float level -ran without air filter -changed to smaller jets (main and pilot) -moved needle valve to next leaner position -set float level too hight and too low -cleaned peacock and inline filter -ran with gas cap loose -checked spark plug--black with a little bit of white My only idea now is that the plastic around the needle jet has deteriorated causing it to run rich. I don't have a smaller needle jet, but adjusting the needle position didn't do anything. Ideas? Thoughts? Thanks. Jim
  12. Hi, I bought my Warrior used, but the headlight(s) was gone (wiring is there). What is a cheap alternative from OEM for headlights? I assume I'll need some sort of mount too. Thanks.
  13. It starts but doesn't stay running? It doesn't start at all? What exactly is going on? Spark? You checked this right? Fuel? Injector or Carb? Do you see fuel squirting? Air? Remove air filter Timing? Check coil
  14. Great job. On the fuse, ATVMechanic posted the wiring diagram a few weeks ago. The fuse is diagramed just above the starter. Keep the pdf handy. http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/yamaha-atv-forum/5702-2004-2008-yamaha-raptor-specs-electrical.html Happy riding.
  15. It should be an in-line fuse, 10 amp, under/near the left rear tire. Good Luck.

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