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Found 6 results

  1. If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them. Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years. The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel. Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start. Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot. Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak. Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl. There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought. ***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. *** I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone. On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again. Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
  2. Finally got my 89 Warrior right. A couple of years ago I rebuilt a 89 Warrior for a motorcycle class I took. The engine was blown and I got it for $300. Anyway, after rebuilding the engine and putting it all together, I got it running. But it never ran well. I rebuilt the carb over and over--with new carb kit. The carb was from an 87 Warrior but the carb parts were almost identical. The quad just never ran with power. After talking with many knowledgable people, we sort of figured out it was running lean. But why? Factory jets and 4,500 feet above sea level should be more than enough. Last year I decided to spend money and took it to the local Yamaha shop. The had for 2 months and had 2 mechanics look at it. They got a flat spot worked out but it still had no power. It cost me only a $150 for many, many hours of labor, tuning and adjustments. It still had no power. In December, I called a local shop with a dynometer. They specialized in high-performance tuning, rebuilding and troubleshooting. Street 2 Sand, Reno, Nevada. After the dyno emissions test, the air/fuel ratio was WAY lean. Over 18 to 1. They replaced the jets over many iterations. Got it going strong and dyno'ed for horse power, too. Anyway, it now runs pretty good. The idle jet needs to be increased in size to give it a little more power off idle, but otherwise a whole new machine. Thanks STS. Anyway, I have spare idle jets (at 0.009 inches) and I'll get someone to increase them by a thousands increment on 2 jets. Thats all. Jim in Reno
  3. hi everyone im new to the forum, i got a chinese quad 4 months ago and before you start saying thats what you get for not getting a branded quad i got it for €100. my quad occasionally back fires when i take off and if i leave it to idel it eventually sputters and dies.. any help is much appreciated. p.s. i have the ability to work with it mechanically but i dont have any special tools
  4. Hey guys, Could anyone with a king quad 300 verify whether or not the exhaust header pipe becoming cherry red 1" to 2" from the cylinder is normal while holding mid throttle position? Temperature will drop and redness disipates upon returning to idle for about 1 min. -Only noticable at night -Cleaned all vent tubes -carb is rebuilt, set to factory except the needle is raised one position(lowered the eclip on slot), needle adjustment resolved missing and popping -pump is good -no vac leaks -Sprayed carb cleaner around everything, no stumble Thanks Everyone! Great Forum! Great People! -
  5. :no:Hi new member here with a question. I have a 1998 Wolverine with the following modifications. 1. bored .030 over 2. new valves 3. hot cams stage 1 4. wiseco piston 5. white bros air filter 6. modified air box lid 7. dyno jet kit stage 1 8. warn 424 9. full DG exhaust When I got this quad the only thing not installed was the dyno jet kit, the previous owner told me I would have to rejet. Before I rejetted it the bike was running lean, the exhaust head pipe would glow orange within 5 minutes of idling, it would backfire through the carb and sputter off idle, 1/2 throttle and above it was fine. I bought the jet kit and followed the instructions, for my location I was to use a 160 main jet, stock jet was 140. After the install the quad fired right up and idled good. Throttle response was a noticible difference and I did not have any sputtering, however, the pipe still gets extremely hot! I pulled the plug and it was white indicating a lean condition still, also it pops through the carb only when I let off the throttle. I contacted DynoJet and explained everything above, they wrote back and suggested that I start with the modified air box lid since the jet kit I purchased was for a stock air box. I haven't removed the small round air filters that were put on the air box cover yet, but was wondering if this doensn't solve my lean condition what else is there to check, I checked for air leaks around the carb boot, and base gaskets and they were fine.
  6. i own a 2005 yfz 450 and i think it's running lean. when i get 3/4 to wide open it misses or cuts out. i have a k and n filter, yosh exhaust sytem and is jetted with a moose racing jet kit. main jet is dj132, pilot jet is dpjm048 and needle is set on #4. the fuel aire mixture screw was 1 and a 1/2 turns out but now 2 turns. spark plug is white. what should i do now?

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