Gwbarm

It will probably work good for many years, I have one on my Eiger that's bad I turn it to prime to fill carb for a minute and turn it to on I start it after a few minutes it runs out of gas, turn it back to prime and it runs again, I wasn't sure if reserve was vacuum operated because reserve works but on does not.

Don't know if this helps: https://www.standardmoto.net/pages/1600310/Products

I decided to go with Suzuki EcStar 5000 mineral oil, I know suzuki doesn't make their own oil but I was getting a headache trying to figure out which oil was best, I have a tendency to over engineer things. . This oil for this engine that oil for another and then there's the 0w-16 oil I don't know how you get a 0 wt oil. Im from the old days when you used Castrol GTX in your motorcycle and whatever brand you liked for your car. Example: A little off subject but, my daughter got a Volvo XC 60 4 cylinder turbo, she was using a oil change place to get her oil changed, no dipstick, you check the oil electronically, oil light kept coming on after just a few hundred miles, took it to dealer they said they were putting the wrong oil in it , bottom line, castrol and Volvo got together and made an oil specifically for their cars Castrol Edge Volvo, it says Volvo right on the bottle, the only oil for this car, not the same castrol edge you get everywhere else. So I think this may be why I went with the suzuki oil, this little experience took everything that I thought I knew about oil and lubrication and threw it right out the window. Sorry to be so long winded this was an experience I wanted to share.

I certainly will, I am currently working on a different project but it is next on my list.

I had a similar problem I put aftermarket on, I would have preferred to rebuild the OEM CARB BUT IT HAD ALREADY BEEN REPLACED with aftermarket, I had to do some adjusting on the throttle cable to get it to idle, not a perfect fit. Since yours ran good for a day I would suspect you might have been some particles in the gas line that might have got into your new carb,, you might also check the vacuum lines to make sure they are all going where they are supposed to go, I think I had an extra one I didn't have a place for and had to plug it. if you have a vacuum operated petcock that may not be working correctly.

The early Kodiaks had a foot shifter and were air/oil cooled but I think since 2000 all Kodiaks were automatic and water cooled, and they were so similar to the Big Bear if you wanted manual transmission you got the big bear, but it was geared lower with more pulling power and slower top speed. On yours I was thinking the 4 sensors were for H,L.N,R I didnt think about park.

I have heard good things about their products, im eventually going to have to get one for my eiger and this company was at the top of my list.

Very nice ride I would definitely not cut it you should be able to fabricate a bracket from aluminum so it wouldn't rust and sister it to your original bracket under the wheel well out of sight.

There is a guy on U tube that shows you how to build one with 20 dollars worth of aftermarket parts haven't tried it but its interesting. I suspect it might make it start but not sure about performance.

Just thinking, the 450 has lights for each gear on the console, maybe these are the sensors for the gear lights that work with the neutral switch.

The photo I posted was the part listed for neutral switch for 2004 Kodiak 450, it also fit numerous other bikes, I did see there was 4 on parts schematic not really sure what the other 3 do but I think they are under the air box.

I agree with you completely Mech, electronic parts are very reliable now days, it easy to forget all the maintenance that was involved in keeping a points system running, changing points and condenser every year or so depending on how much riding you have done, but it was a cheap fix. It was just something you did like changing oil and filter. Now you can drive for years without electronic problems. It just seems everyone I get has CDI problems, I guess that's when they show up on marketplace.

It should be close to the bottom of the engine on left side, this is the part im referring to

I use amazon mostly, just because of the ease of returns, if I don't like the part or feel its cheaply made, but so far I have been impressed with the quality, except for 1 ignition switch I bought, wires were to short could have fixed it easily, but sent it back and ordered a different one it worked fine. I do use Ebay for unobtanium parts, can't find them anywhere. Generally iv noticed the ATV OEM used stuff is very expensive only a few dollars less than new. Example: I bought an air box off eBay for 50 very good shape but all i got was the box, I didn't get all the pieces I needed to put it all together, so by the time I got everything I needed I had very close to new OEM price. Lesson learned!!!

I maybe thinking of the 400 Kodiak should be close to the same place it would be a little sensor that screws into the engine with a wire that attaches to a little nub looks similar to coolant temp sensor.

Front of engine on left side.

Electronic breakdowns always concern me the worse, they work or don't work, and you never know when the latter will happen. Not like the old days remove 2 screws file points and get yourself home.

I always attach to the bike before I bench bleed its like having a 3 rd hand.

I recently acquired this Suzuki Eiger got it running , first priority. Next, there are no brakes front or rear. Master cylinder for front, little Phillips/JIS not sure which, are stripped out so bad, any advice on getting these out, Ive ran into this before and my methods don't work very well. The back brake cables are adjusted very, very, loosely, or I should say not adjusted at all, and im assuming its because rear brakes were sticking. I haven't taken anything apart yet but I can see remnants of silicone sticking out so it has been apart before, probably not sealed back correctly .

Cheap paper filters do not hold up well with fuel pump engines, but if you have cleaned the carb with the same issues that's beside the point. Not real familiar with your carb but there sometimes are hidden jets and dirty emulsion tubes, if they are removable, I have cleaned carbs and cleaned before and never any change until I removed the tube sometimes they won't come out so you have to try and make sure the cleaner gets down in there or use something like berry man in your ultrasonic cleaner. I don't like to do that because it makes the metal darker but for last resort it does work.

Try Rocky Mountain or Motosport they sell OEM parts.

Tie rods do take a beating and get worn, sometimes they can be adjusted back to specs, but sometimes they need to be replaced.

After reading more Suzukis don't come with Mikunis they come with Kei-Hin don't know much about that carburetor.

That great, you figured it out, sometimes little things that that are hard to find.

When I use non ethanol gas a jelly type residue and rust accumulates in float bowl.