Gwbarm

I dont know what a newstart motor is but he should have it figured out by now. Big red wire and big black wire from the soloenoid to the starter.

Thats bad! Have you checked to see if the engine is running hot. One of the listed problems with this particular model is overheating due to a clogged radiator. The other thing i would check if the engine is not overheating is the exhaust flow make sure the exhaust is flowing freely and no debris or mud is caked up around the cover that lets air circulate to keep the exhaust cool. The only other thing i can think of is if it is running lean it could have a tendacy to overheat under certain circumstances, might try some injector cleaner in the gas. Just a few ideas to check.

I think the one you are referring to the starter is located right under the cylinder.

Good point! Its not very popular for that reason. It clearly states it is a booster, it takes the voltage remaining in your battery and amplifys it to act as a booster for your battery.

Welcome! Glad to have you! You are busy keeping your fleet running.

I would agree, i was guessing early 90s but 89 sounds good.

I found mine locally cheaper than this one on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-DSR108-450A-Batteryless-Starter/dp/B01NAD97MJ/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0_image?pd_rd_w=42ojf&content-id=amzn1.sym.bb21fc54-1dd8-448e-92bb-2ddce187f4ac%3Aamzn1.symc.40e6a10e-cbc4-4fa5-81e3-4435ff64d03b&pf_rd_p=bb21fc54-1dd8-448e-92bb-2ddce187f4ac&pf_rd_r=E4X10F2SDVHCVGYEZ4D8&pd_rd_wg=62VE9&pd_rd_r=729e3d70-310a-47ad-b49d-2f3b613abd54&pd_rd_i=B01NAD97MJ&th=1

I agree completely OEM is always better if still available, i only sent the link to show you what it looked like, but parts like that i have used and have not had a problem with, but i shy away from Carbs and CDIs i prefer to fix my OEM carbs with OEM parts. I have seen aftermarker CDIs not work right out of the box.

Go to the downloads tab, chose ATV repair manuals, go to the right and chose Kawasaki, find your manual , click download and it should go into your download folder, then click on it and it will open up, or thats the way it works on my Mac.

This is the voltage regulator should be attached somewhere close to the battery. https://www.amazon.com/Caltric-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KAWASAKI-Prairie/dp/B00KOR3JXY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=27BKH1Y3WPA0N&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Mq6Eg3h1J_je8whkUrN6dwAzcF5Qf_kHQP171pYHemg-l3gKjB9c5Pe9QGfR9GBSWBnYiUn2glWcq7Diy6aJKs--SKZRJ8q1QNxSOgDNRZUj3lC7OhNCPCV1CCAhyA44ZbGra_iqFhc2rFaOLDLfj9qjEGjfG4UWalygLMlILa6Xhr44xA6Smw9he_53GlSMbwpizuibaZj73qMuYMD0mjzJVj9PwDMAui4s8SMfH2wuXdqSamZ39DNXRi_1YrgLkwDg-SCmeC4xsNIxQ2Bfk5Wg7gd-qYk9-gpY4LDjIng.KyPXdGVHDTH2GtpMI6_zf2JYX9R33BqmOQZuFcDKing&dib_tag=se&keywords=1997+kawasaki+prairie+400+voltage+regulator&qid=1747844997&sprefix=1997+kawasaki+praire+400+voltage+regulator%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Thats the stator, the pickup coil is attached to it on some bikes, but not yours. It appears to be separate. That part is for battery charging. The pickup coil causes the plug to fire when the magnet on the rotor goes past it. It is under the crankcase cover but before you tear into that there are tests you can do with the meter to determine if it is bad. It tells you in the service manual the correct resistances for a good coil, its possible neither are bad. This is the pickup coil: https://www.amazon.com/Pick-Up-Kawasaki-1997-2002-183-2065-59026-1110/dp/B084RJ952X/ref=sr_1_3?crid=39CT0V21SUK9M&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.bFaF7gjMjq2Jdo4FwLE89SGxsiS7hiv5zZ5QUztKizbTm_nsJ_f5nbiAM5rQm_UcHDVAMP70mJF9ERZB4uZ7780IqPo-Dv9ow25V5ZOFpKdWe7E0BEsMw6LwTz2H5r4fQgUPknEJTBeYzayE5267y9YABFdPS6gzYKYx4Yj-oZ0pbGkqLc6jdLZVOw5wGQ_tsTi_wHXxwJ5O0nhyltMg-iqR2Pu0MRtq8OGWGwz7zxpfH7u9z9YWXaRrP9C74GK-TsWZMMduDnx8Fe4DD9NEykTspOvSq2ooX0toGtq-c8c.rOhv1-yXT8aF1L9Ydu7GudOkQ_6yC8_98g9JmnItCos&dib_tag=se&keywords=97+kawasaki+400+pickup+coil&qid=1747796344&s=automotive&sprefix=97+kawasaki+400+pickup+coil%2Cautomotive%2C114&sr=1-3 You can unplug it from the harness and check the resistances and also check to make sure its putting out voltage as you rotate the engine, that is best done with an anologue meter the needle is more sensitive to small voltage spikes but its fast you have to look closely or you will miss it.

There is a service manual for it in the manuals section on this site

The only thing you havent replaced is the stator and pickup coil i might look in that direction something caused this wheather it was a loose ground poor conection somewhere or voltage spike. Check to make sure your CDI has good voltage supply and ground . Battery swelling up sounds like a charging problem might also check the voltage regulator.

Interesting Jumper Pack. No battery to die and works well. It is basically a string of capacitors that takes the minimun voltage that is in your battery , even though its not enough to start the machine, it is enough to fill the capacitors and boost the battery for starting. The only problem is if the battery is completely dead wont do any good, but you can charge it in 2 minutes with your car battery. Interesting idea if the capacitors hold up, time will tell.

Excellent! I appreciate the input.

Its been a while, what have you done so far, describe what problems you are having

The standard is to oil the filter, i think the theory is the oil catches more particles to increase the air filtration efficiency. I will probably get a lot of flack for this, but i dont oil my filters, i like to look in my filter housing and see a clean filter and when its dirty change it, if there is oil in there i know i have a problem with blow by. Just my thoughts. It will be interesting to hear what others do. Good question!

Remove the junction box cover. Disconect the neutral switch wire connector . Check for continuity between the light green/red wire terminal and ground. The switch is good if there is continuity with the transmission in neutral. For the reverse switch check continuity between gray and ground good if you have continuity with the transmission in reverse. Poor photo from service manual.

I think from Grizzly 2013 and newer it needs the Yamahs Sevice Tool code reader and it connects to the white port near the battery.

Welcome! Glad to have you, a lot of good people here with a much knowledge, always willing to help.

The plastic cover that says honda on it pulls off and the bolts are under there but be carefull not the break the tabs holding the plastic in place. The metal plate is also part of the handlebar mounting clamp.

I have noticed lately that the ATV tires i generally buy have upped in price quite a bit. The Kenda EX that i generally get are sold out and not available at this time, the EVO which is usually my second choice has increased 50.00 on a set of 4. The HTR Kendas best tire is now 150.00 per tire. Even the Sun F have increased but not so much as the others.

Interesting valves should have stopped the piston before it hit the plug did it do anything weird before it stopped running. I would probably pull the cover and inspect the timing chain first, maybe see if it will budge with a wrench on the cranknut, dont go crazy with it just move it back and fourth gently.

A little more information: I have to admit it, from a marketing standpoint alone, calling so many machines the LT230 wasn’t the best move on Suzuki’s behalf. There were some years when they offered a whopping 6-machine variant on the line at once with the letter designations at the end being the only way to identify one from the next. There’s good news though- the letters tell the story. First the LT230 portion tells us right away that it uses Suzuki’s overhead cam 2-valve 229 cc (“230”) 4-stroke single-cylinder engine. Next the vehicle name tells us about the transmission. Suzuki used the designation “Quadsport” to identify machines boasting a manual clutch transmission (an S letter designation) and “Quadrunner” to describe those machines with automatic clutches. When an E appeared at the end of the vehicle code, that meant the machine came equipped with electric starting (the pure S version was kick start). Lastly the G series meant shaft final drive (as opposed to chain).

Great reasearch Mech. I have run into this also in the past, parts on bikes that did not match service manuals, never did figure out why, i just chalked it up as factory glitches. The age of these units it still possible they were changed out with different parts.