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Gwbarm

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Everything posted by Gwbarm

  1. You have been busy, got the clutches off and got it out. The new one works thats great news. The piece that is out of place is the reverse shift shaft assembly, it is spring loaded and rides against the shift drum. This illustration is from a 2001 manual.
  2. I agree Mech 100 ft pds is a lot of torque, but that is what the book said.
  3. Earlier didnt you say you replaced the relay with no change in post #1. Did the replaced relay also get hot.
  4. Primary clutch 100 ft pds, clutch case bolts 7.2 ft pds. This is from a 2001 big bear 400 manual.
  5. Its around 100 ft pds, let me look it up to be more exact.
  6. I completely agree, very curious to know what the problem is.
  7. it ashamed there are no replaceable parts in the hondamatic, it probably is the pump. Hopefully something is just stuck and it will come around.
  8. Thanks for posting the PDF i had forgotten the exact sequence you push the buttons to reset everything.
  9. The whine does sound like oil pump, but there is a bearing in there that has a plastic ball separator, hope the bearing did not get stuck from sitting and break that plastic piece that hold the balls in place. That is a non replaceabe part.
  10. Thats good you found it, i have used all balls parts and have been very happy with them.I think Moto 4 and Big Bear share a lot of parts.
  11. Thats it to get to the switch. It under the primary clutch. Just be sure to torque the nuts back on and bend up the tab.
  12. Do you have any error codes showing up, i was thinking maybe bad connection aat the angle sensor, but that should show a code.
  13. I would definately unhook the wench wires if possible, until you get this sorted out, but if its a factory installed unit it mat be incorporated into the rest of the harness.
  14. Not bad once you get the cover off, there are nuts with a bend up tab holding the nuts in place, just bend those tabs out of the way and get the nuts off the clutches slide right off the shaft.
  15. I had to take my aftermarket switch apart to see what color wire went to what, they didnt match the OEM wiring colors. Then figure out from the schematic where they go. I have had relays give me fits also they would OHM out right but would not work, just something to try, i wired mine direct bypassing the relay just for a test, it worked so i got a new relay.
  16. You have done some great investigative work. I would trace the blue wire to the key switch and make sure everything is good there, with the relay unplugged check to see if the wire still has voltage on it. I would have guessed the relay, but you checked that. My thought is the relay might be sticking and once you unplug it and plug it backin there may not be enough power to work the relay until you turn the switch to on.
  17. Several things dont seem quite right, when you push the start button you should see the oil light not the neutral light. The neutral light should be lite when its in neutral and the keyswitch is in the on position. When you push on the brake it should allow you to start the machine in gear or if the neutral light is not working, but not cause the neutral light to come on. None of the parts you replaced should have any impact on the neutral light, except maybe the keyswitch but only if you werent getting power anywhere.
  18. It kind of a pain thats why i havent done mine yet, you have to drain all the oil, pull the clutch side cover, and pull both clutches to access, the one thats in the way is the primary clutch, but you have to pull the centrifical to get that off. If i go to all this trouble i will just put a new switch in.
  19. Thats strange that they would have the bearing and not the seal, probably because the bearing fits other newer bikes and the seal does not, so they discontinued it. That happens alot ,discintinuing items that are specific to that bike only.
  20. Chain is a good possibility, the next thing i was going to suggest is the pump pressure and stuck bearing.
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