Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

2016 Kymco MXU270,450i and 700i


Recommended Posts

So we bought three Kymco quads spring of 2017 and put them through the test all summer in north central WA mountains.  My boys MXU 270 surprised the hell out me several times when I thought for sure id have to pull it through some muddy spots but he cruised on though like it was 4 wheel drive(which it isn't).  Really a well built great beginner quad even for younger riders as it comes with the restrictor rings that only allow for about 25mph till they are ready for higher speeds which this tops out at about 45mph which is plenty for mountain trails.  

The wife's MXU450i is about the smoothest running, and shifting quad I have ever been on.   Has great pep for a 450 and with on the fly 4x4 she has gotten up every where I've gone(despite my best efforts).  She is only 5' tall and really likes the narrower seat on the 450, something to keep in mind if your considering a 500 as that will put you on the wider body which may not be as comfortable a ride for some.

I really have only have one complaint about my 700i and that it isn't a 1000 :).  Super comfortable to ride and plenty of power.  Rode these all season with no issues what so ever.  To be honest the quality of these machines is definitely comparable to Yamaha, Suzuki, or Arcticat.  The main reason I bought these was the price.  I was able to score all three for about $14,500 after tax as the dealer had been sitting on them for about a year since no one around here wanted to take a chance on an unknown brand which worked out very well for me.  The mxu270 came with decent undercarriage guards and plates but the skid plates on the 450 and 700 are plastic so defiantly replace if your riding in rocky areas.  I made mine out of 3/16'' aluminum using the plastic plates that came on them as a template.  Only took about $100 and a weekend but you can also buy these if your not a cheap as I am.





  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dream Car Giveaway

My friend has  a  Kymco  700 and  loves it..  Yes Kymco  quality is right up there  with   the  Japanese   makes.  In fact  , if you dug  into  it , you'd  find  Kymco  does a lot of  manufacturing  for   other  makes ,  both in   parts and assemblies.   Some  junk  does  come out  of  China  and  other  Asian  countries, but  also  despite what  American  industry tries to tell  everyone ,  some  very  high quality products do  also. Kymco   is a  Taiwanese  company ,  and their  products  take  no  quality  back seat  to  anyone.

Now ,  I can think  of some  American  companies that  can't  make  that  claim  about their  products,f  one  in the  quad  manufacturing  industry . . LOL.  I don't  know  how  common it is   on  newer  ones,  but  up  here  among  people  I  know , older  Polarises  have  the  nickname  " Pull  Hairis"  for all the  problems  they have  had .


  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Hi I have a 2014 kymco 700i mxu. It only has 1600 km on it and the speedometer and odo stopped working. It just stays at 0kmh and odo does not go up. I’m wondering if it was the speed sensor would the check engine light come on?  I have take. It out and cleaned it but still does not work. A dealer told me the light should come on if there was a problem with the sensor so he thinks it would be the screen. Everything else works on the screen including riding hours, gear position, fuel gauge,clock. Can someone help please before I buy parts for nothing. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do not know if this information will be accurate for you but last year I had a problem with my Arctic Cat 366 which is basically a Kymco MXU 375. There is a speed sensor that sends pulses to the POD to measure speed. (Picture 1) I had the same problem, reading zero. First picture is what the speed sensor looks like ON MY QUAD. It MAY be the same on yours?

First thing to do is unplug it, clean it with electroclean (you can find it at any auto parts store) then measure with the ignition on to verify it has power to the sensor.  (picture 3)

I have a meter that can measure Hz and I was able to verify the speed sensor was bad with it quickly. There is another way. Look at Picture 2. With the ignition on take a thin pair of needle nose pliers or use a piece of small gauge wire and go from the +12V lead to the center lead and "tap" it several times. This will simulate the pulses sent by the sensor. If you POD shows a speed reading, the sensor is bad. If it does not. You may have a broken wire or a bad connection to the POD, or a bad POD.

(My meter showed me with the quad running at idle, I had pulses coming from the sensor, but the voltage output was too low for the pod to read)



0520191655 (Medium).jpg

0520191712 (Medium).jpg

0520191751 (Medium).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So if I tap the leads with pliers do I tap both at the same time or leave on one lead and you said if the speed goes off of zero that means the sensor is bad ?  And if it doesn’t move off of zero it could be the screen?  And yes the sensors look identical. Thanks for the reply

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Either way, since I had thin pliers, i tapped both at the same time. (make sure your going from the 12 volt wire to center wire.

If it doesn't do anything, I would suspect the wire first. This quad did have a wire harness problem in the front side. It was intermittently blowing the ignition fuse and I found a rubbed through wire in the front frame. If you have a schematic, you can disconnect the pod and verify continuity between the speed sensor plug and the pod.

Its possible the connector to the pod is dirty and not making a good connection. I would suspect a pod problem last.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Oger69420
      Just like the title says how do I find out what I have here I was told that it is a 1985 200 That is all I know and I need to Start looking for parts

    • By suzuki230ge
      Can I put 75w140 gear oil in my Suzuki lt230ge (shaft drive)
    • By Rich1028
      Quad Up on Two Wheels Through the Turn
    • By Rich1028
      Gladwin North & South  Loop  6-18-22
    • Dream Car Giveaway
    • By VikingTrad3r
      I have an 86 yfm250 (moto4 250) i picked up. 
      It bogs and pops a bit out the tailpipe if you can even get it higher up in the rpm. It is pretty gutless. I have other 250’s (timberwolves) and its ultra gutless compared to them. 
      It has an aftermarket carb on it that has a “W” on it  Its not a mikuni but it looks close  
      i figured jetting was off at the high end. 
      i had a mimuni that was very crusty, swapped the main jet into the W carb, and the needle, which was set on low slot 4 so left it there.  
      it actually ran much better, and cured what i thought was a problem caused by a lean condition from the W carbs main jet being too restricted when i compared to the factory mikuni  
      I had it out and was enjoying the upper rpms that i couldnt reach before without bog.  at wot it would fall on its face  low top speed.  
      after getting it hot, it would actually refuse to start after dying.
      back to the drawing board.
      when i first got it i adjusted the valves. So i retraced my work and thought maybe id overtightened. double checked, nope all good.  .005 exh , .003 intake, check.
      So i checked the compression. 
      here is the trickyness. help me understand this.  I am at 3500ft asl  in calgary canada  
      -  initiate test, it goes to 75psi right away. this is low. Even at my elevation im thinking 110psi minimum  
      but....this thing starts no problem. even -20c it starts. makes no sense to me. so i press the starter again and it goes to 85. Then i press it again and no change. Then i turn over again and it jumps to 95. Then again...no change. Then again and it goes to 115.  finally finishes at 120 and i cannot get it to go any higher than this. 
      ive repeated this multiple times. 
      i press and hold the starter...it will max at 75. Then a series of maybe 10 more quick turnovers from the starter and compression inches up to 120psi. 
      So, i think the low compression explains the low top end, and even the backfiring out the exhaust when hot. The exhaust is rich enough (incomplete combustion in chamber) and to ignite in the muffler. 
      it gets worse when hotter. 
      makes me think i have a crack, or something that is low down on the cylinder wall. When the piston stops just above it on the upstroke, and i then turn it over again, it adds pressure to my tester reading. 
  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...