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1993 Kawasaki Bayou 300c 4x4 Tie Rod and Shifting Issues

pokerl0w

By pokerl0w
in Kawasaki ATV Forum

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JacobSlabach Mentor

JacobSlabach

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but yea with the lug nuts, make sure to torque them down because you wouldn't really notice a lose wheel unless you're going fast and that could definitely cause rubbing.  And the stop switch...I done it too- tried to start it with the stop switch off..  after that, I never used the stop switch to turn it off- just the key..maybe that would help to prevent it from happening again....haha

pokerl0w Enthusiast

pokerl0w

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well 💩 I found out why it was still leaking oil even with the tap plug. Not sure if I did this tapping or at the start when I stripped.

 

image.png.b7ee7a7eb6a6abca317d26cecde204d1.png

 

guess I am done, yeah? I can not go larger tap, it will most likely crumble the rest. I'm going to try to re-use the same plug with loctite and new crush washer... but this means it will not hold and can it even be repaired?

Frank Angerano Grand Master

Frank Angerano

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Ugh thats bad.   Jb weld will work great though.  Use the tap plug.  Drain the oil lay the bike on the side so no oil is in the area of the threads when installing the plug back in. Clean it a little with a carb cleaner and dry It good so no oil is in the area.   That’s why you have to lay it on the side and let it sit like that for a few min.  

The only other thing to do it bring it to a weld shop and have a guy that’s know heli arc alum welding and weld the tap plug in place.   

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Frank Angerano Grand Master

Frank Angerano

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I may not have explained how I would apply the jb weld but I would putt a little around the threads and send it in and ASAP once it’s in I would add some in the area where the chunk is missing and a small bead around the entire  plug where it meets the engine to be safe. It has to be clean though and even if you want rough the area up with a little sand paper. 

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pokerl0w Enthusiast

pokerl0w

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well I just used loctite, rubber crush and wanted to show ya'll the gears slipping first. I am about done with this bike.

I need to move the gopro to the front, clearly!! but I was in a rush....

 

 

pokerl0w Enthusiast

pokerl0w

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guess I'll try the jb weld first.. and then turn focus on the gears. hopefully it just needs adjustment, but my concern is that drip from the bottom/back of the motor where I think the clutches are. I was thinking, if anyone knew what to test to know if I am in deeper and I would wait to weld since I probably have to pull the engine. Maybe it is just a clutch adjustment and needs a new gasket. maybe i'll get lucky

  • Admin changed the title to 1993 Kawasaki Bayou 300c 4x4 Tie Rod and Shifting Issues
Frank Angerano Grand Master

Frank Angerano

Posted
Posted

You would not have to pull the motor to deal with the clutch of its slipping.   Which it most likely is.   Unless you feel the gears grinding or a hard shift anyway.  But if it’s a slip it’s going to be more of a cluch thing then anything.   

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pokerl0w Enthusiast

pokerl0w

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Posted (edited)
On 1/28/2019 at 2:20 PM, Frank Angerano said:

Ugh thats bad.   Jb weld will work great though.  Use the tap plug.  Drain the oil lay the bike on the side so no oil is in the area of the threads when installing the plug back in. Clean it a little with a carb cleaner and dry It good so no oil is in the area.   That’s why you have to lay it on the side and let it sit like that for a few min.  

The only other thing to do it bring it to a weld shop and have a guy that’s know heli arc alum welding and weld the tap plug in place.   

 

to be clear, both are "tap plugs"? one was self-threading the other had the piggyback. if I use the one with piggyback, it is 14mm x 2.00 and the self-tap is 12mm x 1.75 - I am very much concerned that the larger piggyback will split more. When I look close there is also a tiny crack (on the outside) at the end of where the chunk cracked off..

and for laying down.. guess that means also need to siphon the gas before I tip. anything else might leak? fuel left in hoses? never tipped one. maybe I can use a tree branch and pulley to lift it straight back/front? would I gain anything? 

I also think I should remove plastic before I tip. lots of cracks in this gem. however if I pulley, I could leave them on. leave it dangling all night and scare neighbors that have smaller atvs

Edited by pokerl0w
forgot tap n crack stuff
Frank Angerano Grand Master

Frank Angerano

Posted
Posted

The piggy back will allow you to drain the oil later using the small plug.   But you could go back to the original one of its a snug fit.   And clean the crack good and sand it up sand it up good so the jb weld has some grooves to get into.   I would prob drain the gas out but you don't have to flip it over just tip it sideways and block up the side of the bike so it the remaining oil goes elsewhere and not in the area of the drain plug during the repair.   If that holds you can always buy a small hand pump and pump most of the oil out of the engine through the oil fill plug. It’s a little unorthodox but  It’s a solution to a big problem. 

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JacobSlabach Mentor

JacobSlabach

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On 1/28/2019 at 7:30 PM, pokerl0w said:

well I just used loctite, rubber crush and wanted to show ya'll the gears slipping first. I am about done with this bike.

I need to move the gopro to the front, clearly!! but I was in a rush....

 

 

btw, was jw, is your bike manual or semi manual?  Mine is foot shift but no clutch to pull.  Easier in some ways and harder in others to drive...

pokerl0w Enthusiast

pokerl0w

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5 hours ago, JacobSlabach said:

btw, was jw, is your bike manual or semi manual?  Mine is foot shift but no clutch to pull.  Easier in some ways and harder in others to drive...

semi auto. last bikes I rode, I do not think they had auto's. I am used to the left handlebar clutch.

But, I really do not think it is my foot. because it will also slip out of 1st gear into neutral and it wasn't me, I swear! :)

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pokerl0w Enthusiast

pokerl0w

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I did not think this was going to work...

image.png.d726709dae7f9b88bf601eeb95d90d10.png

I was too concerned about making things worse with the larger tap in terms of losing more metal. I ordered a smaller piggyback that I hope fits better.

 

image.png.d2e8a4b8c0fc096efea7a34f2ed2682d.png

 

but it's holding!! I "rode" for a while in 3' of snow to test it out.

 

 

JacobSlabach Mentor

JacobSlabach

Posted
Posted

and about the shifting issue...  have you adjusted the clutch?  I adjusted mine out and it started slipping under load untill I adjusted it back in.  best way to learn how to do that is to go to 👇 , enter you model, and look at the owner's (not service- you spend a week looking for it) manual and and you should find directions to adjusting the clutch

My Kawasaki | Save Favorite Vehicle Info, Quick Links, Dealer & More

 

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pokerl0w Enthusiast

pokerl0w

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1 hour ago, JacobSlabach said:

did you use the akaso to film that video you took?

yes but not of the rubber oil plug install heh

1 hour ago, JacobSlabach said:

and about the shifting issue...  have you adjusted the clutch?  I adjusted mine out and it started slipping under load untill I adjusted it back in.  best way to learn how to do that is to go to 👇 , enter you model, and look at the owner's (not service- you spend a week looking for it) manual and and you should find directions to adjusting the clutch

My Kawasaki | Save Favorite Vehicle Info, Quick Links, Dealer & More

 

ty for this. I will get to it soon. right now I'm riggin' a plow to see if I can move more vs with front frame heh

pokerl0w Enthusiast

pokerl0w

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well I'm wrong. soon as the oil gets really hot n thin, it appears to leak. much much less than before but, guess that's why most everyone stayed quiet when I got excited that I thought it was working heh

it's good enough for now though, going to play in the 3' we got and 1' more coming over the weekend HOT DAMN!

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