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Andrew Baker

1998 Kawasaki Bayou wiring help

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Absolutely 

The new stator will or should come with the pick up coil as well.   
Stators go bad from a few different things but mainly from trying to jump the bike with a car or welding on the frame without disconnecting the stator and installing the battery wires backwards.  

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Thank you for your help. So far I have it wired correctly but still no spark.  I know the pick up coil to be bad so I replaced it and yet still no spark. I have pretty much replace everything except the stator. Would a bad stator cause a no spark issue? I'm getting 0.7 ohms of resistance between the yellow wires from the stator. 

 

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Check each wire from the stator to the ground on continuity and see if you get a reading. One lead of the tester on one of the yellow wires and the the other lead of the tester to a good ground.  If you get any kind of a reading on continuity or ohms then there is a problem with the stator.  As far as the 0.7 I would have to see what the specifications for that atv call for. But do that test first and see what happens.  

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All open line and no continuity. I'm so stumped. Now I will say that I do not have the starter relay on it. It is still in the mail. But I do have the white wire that goes to the relay hooked straight to the positive side of the battery

 

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That plug is an accessory connector of some sort maybe a battery tender. If you look at a lot of the wiring diagrams it shown an accessory set of wires.  Check it for voltage with key on and off.   
Was it plugged into anything  or is it just hanging.  

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Just hanging. I thought maybe the red recharged the battery. It looks to me like the battery get recharged via the white wire. Is this correct?

 

*EDIT* I see the terminals in one of the diagrams I have. I just missed because in my diagram it is toward the front of the vehicle.

Edited by Andrew Baker

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Well then I'm still without spark. So, I know my pickup coil was bad. I happened to have one from a CN250 (GY6 style) that looked the same so I used it. I'm thinking maybe it just isn't working with that engine. I don't know what else it could be. I'm getting headlight, and indicator lights. My CDI should be good because I pulled one off of a Bayou 250 just one year newer. Same with the rectifier. I'm starting to dislike this ATV.....

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I would start to pull the harness away from the frame and start to check for any cuts or broken wires.  

Then 
Start  checking continuity from one end of a wire in the harness to another. So locate  a brown wire and start checking for another brown wires and check continuity at each spot. 
Do the  same for all wires in the harness to make sure they are not broke.  
Understand or am I not clear? 
 

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Perfectly clear. I'm mostly frustrated because I'm not used to having issues like this lol. I'm no bewbie to wiring at all. I have built several GY6 and CN250 builds and built custom harnesses by hand, as well as build several Honda's for racing and custom built those harnesses as well. So, in theory, this should have been a breeze. 

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Been down this road a few times. I have come across more then a few pain in the asses.  
Now it becomes an obsession figuring this out.  And I want to know what the final result was so let’s see this through for the next member that has this problem.   
Somethings grounding this circuit out or it’s a bad cdi. 
 

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Well, I now have spark! But only pull start. I hooked up my starter relay and tested it. It works, but nothing from the push button. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts. I get no continuity with the button unpressed and continuity when pressed so to me that means the button it good. Could this be a starter circuit relay issue?

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Wow great news, what was the problem? 

Do you have a neutral light when the key is on ? 

Did you jump the solenoid to verify that the starter is working? If not then do so, if it spins great then you can move on to the starter circuit. 
If the starter does not spin then your starter may be bad or at least the brushes inside it.
 

The starter relay circuit is pretty simple. Go to the usual suspect first.  The neutral safety switch! Your bike should have a red and a light green wire coming out of the engine on the left side where the shifter area is right above it.  There is a light green wire, take that wire and disconnect it from the wire going into the engine and put a jumper from a good ground to that green wire on the harness side and see if the starter works with the push button. 
If not then locate the stater circuit relay. It’s in the same area as the starter solenoid round aluminum relay in a black rubber boot holder. There should be four wires on the relay. Two black, one brown and one green. 
Jump the two blacks and see if it works.  If so then it’s one of two things. The brown wire feeding the relay is not getting 12v or the green wire is not getting a ground from the neutral safety switch. 
 

Double check the bike is in neutral before you do any of this. 
Check back and let me know. 
 

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On 11/27/2019 at 6:21 AM, Frank Angerano said:

Wow great news, what was the problem? 

Do you have a neutral light when the key is on ? 

Did you jump the solenoid to verify that the starter is working? If not then do so, if it spins great then you can move on to the starter circuit. 
If the starter does not spin then your starter may be bad or at least the brushes inside it.
 

The starter relay circuit is pretty simple. Go to the usual suspect first.  The neutral safety switch! Your bike should have a red and a light green wire coming out of the engine on the left side where the shifter area is right above it.  There is a light green wire, take that wire and disconnect it from the wire going into the engine and put a jumper from a good ground to that green wire on the harness side and see if the starter works with the push button. 
If not then locate the stater circuit relay. It’s in the same area as the starter solenoid round aluminum relay in a black rubber boot holder. There should be four wires on the relay. Two black, one brown and one green. 
Jump the two blacks and see if it works.  If so then it’s one of two things. The brown wire feeding the relay is not getting 12v or the green wire is not getting a ground from the neutral safety switch. 
 

Double check the bike is in neutral before you do any of this. 
Check back and let me know. 
 

Ok so as you know my starter push button did not work. I spliced a wire from the starter switch to the black wire on the starter relay to bypass the starter circuit relay. This is the only wire that has changed. Now my push button works but I am not getting spark still. I have 2 starter circuit relays and I get no spark with either. What are the chances that they are both bad? They are both used. I just don't know how common it is for these to go bad considering how simple they are. I'm literally to the point of swapping a predator 420 in this thing if I can't figure it out soon. I do get the neutral light by the way. I'm really stumped and frustrated. 

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Here's the deal with the wires on the relay. The start relay has four wires, one light green one brown and two black. The the green is connected to the neutral safety switch.  The brown wire is 12v+ as soon as you put the bike in neutral it grounds the light green wire and the round aluminum relay gets power and closes the contact in the relay making the two black wires connect allowing the starter too work. 
The second relay is just for starting purposes.  Neither should prevent spark from happening.  If you don't have spark then it's something else like a bad stator not starter (Stator coil)  or rectifier etc.  Maybe a bad kill switch or something else. 

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I can check the kill switch. If that is good I may get a new stator and rectifier. I have 2 rectifiers also. I just don't see them go bad too often. 

 

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You can test all the parts except the cdi.  Its all in the manual.  All you need is a tester to do it.
If you need some help or the numbers shown in the manual let me know. 

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Stupid question, but have you checked the spark plug boot?  I had one not long ago that wouldn't fire a spark plug for anything.  Finally checked the boot for connectivity out of curiosity and it had none...changed that and it was good to go.

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No such thing as a stupid question and a very good point. Thats why i always like to test each part while you have the tester out. It only takes a few minutes.  And for the members that don't know how... well we can all walk you through that.  Bit def a valid question there @MarkinAR

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Sounds like possibly voltage regulator may have failed, with there being spark with the pull rope. I have experienced this with several different atv's.

Edited by teallen

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Hey, I'll chime in real quick, I just went through the same thing on the same bike.  I have two machines and I could take the CDI from the good bike and put it on the bad bike, no spark, I could take the bad bike's cdi and put it on the good bike and it would run, therefore I thought my CDI was good.  I swapped everything else, including the flywheel, I got it to spark with a flywheel from a newer one but when i ordered the exact same flywheel - no spark.  I finally bought a cheapo chinese CDI from ebay and it now runs.  All I can think is that there is a tolerance stack up where something on that bike is just weak enough that an older cdi unit just won't fire.  Anyway, for what it's worth.., my .02.    Good luck!  

 

I have three of these quads presently and they all run, two have the older electrical system and one is the newer style.  Let me know if you want me to check anything for you.

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