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Friday evening went riding, rode for a good hour or so everything was fine. I went to take a short ride to the restroom (less than 100 yds away) and all of the sudden everything flickered and then just died out. Accompanying the problem I noticed the killswitch completely locked up. Once daylight hit took the killswitch apart to find it had shorted out and melted the plastic inside. Has anyone else had anything similar to this and if so what did you do to fix the situation? I have a new killswitch on the way to replace the obvious problem but was wondering could there be a bigger issue at hand. We tested with a voltage meter to make sure everything was still getting power from the battery and as far as we could tell it was.
Any advice/info would be GREATLY appreciated.
Had a spark-plug break off, had to pull the head to get it extracted. Where the heck is the timing mark on the crank? Do I need to pull the stator or flywheel to find it? When I pulled the head I had the mark on the cam lined up pretty good but I cant remember if it was perfect and don't want to reassemble a tooth off and have to go back through the bear of pulling this thing back apart.
By Chase Cook
Hi I just got an Polaris sportsman 500 4x4 ATV the other day. I got it real cheap but I started to go into it because it didn't have compression so I bought a new piston and ring kit for it and installed it, but now when I try to start it all it does is shoot fire out the exhaust or the intake of the carburetor. And a timing is top dead center.;I think I can't really tell another way if it is or not. when I put it together I made sure to piston was on top and the cam lobes where facing down where are the cam sprocket is facing up. It has gas and spark. It did start a couple minutes ago but it didn't stay running and now it won't start. Do you think the valve need to be adjusted more to close better?I'm fixing to try that out and if that don't work what is the problem? Also I made sure everything was together good and right and change the oil and changed out the radiator fluid.
By Brian Sosebee
I just rebuilt my 03 sportsman 400. Put everything back together added oil per the manual. Pinched off the oil tank vent line 2" away ran for 45 seconds then cut it off. Check oil level and it was still way high so I wasn't confident that it primed so I did it again. Checked again and it's the same. Remove the oil filter and it is dry. I did the procedure again and the same results.
I'm worried to keep trying this as the only oil in the engine is what I used to lubricate the parts when reassembling the piston. The crankcase was drained as well.
I Removed the oil tank and checked all the lines for obstructions and the screen filter and the vent hose and everything is clear. I even pulled a small vacuum on the oil tank while it was pulled off to make sure there were no leaks. The dipstick cap was on tight so I'm not sure why this thing is not priming.
Anyone have any suggestions. I thought about pre-priming the oil lines from the oil tank to the crankcase to hopefully help the system prime. I'd like to be able to add some oil to the crankcase to so I wouldn't feel so bad about running the engine for another 60 seconds without oil. I dropped just a little bit of oil in the spark plug hole to help condition the sleeve right now.
What do I do? Anyone had or heard of an oil pump failure on these. Btw oil pump is working fine before I did the top-end rebuild and the oil pump was not touched.
Please help!!! Thanks all for any and all help.
Hi all, new member here.
Picked up a really cheap non-runner last night from a neighbor. He had gotten it from someone else who had rebuilt it a few years ago and it has decorated his garage since.
It is an early-90's (1992 or 93?) Suzuki LT250, but the weird part is the engine is a neon green color. I am now wondering if someone swapped the original motor out of this quad. Does anyone have experience with these that could give me a pointer as to what this could have come out of? I have heard that some Arctic Cat models had the same Suzuki motor - could that be where this came from? It is a 2WD, and has the typical chain drive/RWD system with both front and rear (rear drum) brakes. Very little rust and mostly complete, for the price I paid it isn't bad, but I am not sure how to pinpoint the engine type, and I would like to have that figured out.
Just want to make sure what I am dealing with before ordering parts. I will need a carburetor by the looks of things, and air/oil/fuel filters, plugs, etc.
Thanks in advance for any help, appreciate your experience with these quads.
For the last few weeks, I've been getting various diagcodes on a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP. Some of the throttle codes I saw: 520194-1, 520194-3, 520194-7 and the others popped up as well. Sometimes without issue, sometimes I'd be kicked into limp mode.
Some of the time, I'd restart (not always easy to do, but that's a different thread and solution), but when I did get it going, they'd be gone and it'd drive fine. Totally intermittent.
Here's the solution I had to all of them, as this machine shouldn't be having so many issues even though it has 800 hard miles of either plowing or cutting trails in Northern MN:
1. Stock Battery is tiny and crap. I swapped it out for a slightly larger AGM in the stock location (easy to swap if you crank the wheels out of the way and remove the coolant overflow. I did have to bend the stock battery retainer a bit for the new battery to fit, but that was 10 seconds with a vise and hammer.
2. I pulled the entire front cover/cowling off to get a clear picture of things, but you could do what I ended up doing with just the wire terminal cover off. The terminal block by the fuse holder has the main power coming in from the battery, and going out to the winch, the starter, etc. I think the most effective thing I did was to remove all of those wires, brush them with a stainless steel brush to remove oxidation, dirt, and corrosion, and then reinstalled those wires good and tight.
Everything has been working better than it has it years since I did that. It seems the weak battery AND some voltage drop through bad connections wasn't supplying the juice needed for all systems and I kept getting codes and limp mode kicking in.
I hope for you that a new battery for ~$45 off Amazon (way cheaper than my local stores) and maybe 90 minutes of just installing that and then cleaning the main connections up will solve those odd issues.
I will say I checked all of the harness connections on the throttle, checked the throttle itself by removing it, adjust the idle up and down, and put a new air filter, and even tried the zip tie trick in the throttle switch to try to solve this along the journey, but none of those made a lick of difference. It was all the electrical connections.
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
Hi folks, I recently purchased I believe an 02 Kodiak 4 x 4 it was stored outside, put a new battery in it still nothing kept playing around with the shifter suddenly the neutral light came on and it cranked right over no problem few days later same issue this time I can’t get the light to come on anything common I should be looking for ?
By Mark Gibeault
Does the onboard system provide everything needed to atleast point out any electrical component malfunction and is there ang benefit of using an obdll diagnostic tool with an adapter for this machines diagnostic port?
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