Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV, UTV or SxS? Join our Community Forum!

    QUADCRAZY ATV Community and Forum are FREE to join! We keep our ATV, UTV, and SxS forums clean and user friendly. All first time posters in our forums will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first ten posts are approved, you will no longer need to go through a forum post approval process. To bypass the approval process with immediate access and a NO ADS experience in our ATV, SxS, and UTV forums, consider subsribing to a Premium Membership

2008 Yamaha Raptor 350 intermittent spark/no spark


Daniel Gibson

Recommended Posts

Have a 08 raptor brought to me a couple months ago. Got it on a trade for house remodel. Bike has around 30 hours. No that's not a typo thirty verifiable hours. The main Yamaha tech has put hands on this bike. Always Been reallyhard to start. If it does it runs really good. That's the kicker...IF! It started out intermittent now it's no spark at all. Everything ignition related is brand new. It all checks out good but still won't do it. Please help

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've checked and rechecked for spark by a spark tester and by removing plug and grounding it out to the motor and frame etc... I've adjusted valves,re-timed it,replace all ignition related parts. They were under warranty and at request of customer. Those make the 4th time they've been replaced. Cdi,stator,regulator/rectifier,coils,wiring harness,relays,hell i even changed out the damn light bulbs. You never know lol. Yamahas head tech flew here and couldn't get it right either after 4 days of turning wrenches. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm. You did everything you could. Even most of what I would have. It seems like reversed wires. I know Yamaha has the same plugs with same connectors almost the same wires too. Try that. Even new quads and be assembled wrong. Confirm your wiring.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm. You did everything you could. Even most of what I would have. It seems like reversed wires. I know Yamaha has the same plugs with same connectors almost the same wires too. Try that. Even new quads and be assembled wrong. Confirm your wiring. Even a pinched wire would do that.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Just an update on this @$*%!%# bike. Jiggled the wire harness going to the stator and trigger coil and got it starting and running beautifully. Started over 50 times for over a week straight. The customer came to pick it up. He was 10 foot away watching as it happened. Ran for about 30 minutes continuously perfect. Went to push it backwards to turn around aaannndddd guess what?!? Yep the hunk of junk dies and back to the same B.S.! WTF IS THIS BIKES DEAL?

forgot to say i found a terminal end was crimped on to the trigger coil wire but they did not strip the insulation off before they crimped it! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you checked for spark now that its not running? 
 

I would check/inspect the stator wires going directly into the engine. I've seen instances where wires at the entry point on the engine  lose there insulation and short out against the engine housing.  
Wiggle the wires as you crank the engine and see what happens.  

In addition to that the fact that you wiggled wires and it ran great tells me there's a short exposed someplace. 

Could be wires rubbing against the frame sie to rubbing, OR ... maybe a wet cdi that has dried out and got wet again.   
 

Take the cdi off of the bike and put it in the oven on 200 deg for 10 minutes and put it back on and try that.  
Sounds crazy but it works.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New OEM harness is $150 on Partzilla.  That's probably a lot cheaper than hours spent tracking down an internally broken wire or sheared insulation causing a ground short.  On ATV flips I nearly always undervalue my hourly rate and assume that as long as selling price is higher than what it took to get it ready to sell then I'm good and making a buck.  But I rarely figure in cost per hour for my time.

Assuming that Frank's suggestions above don't resolve the issue anyway....

Edited by MarkinAR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By Drillbit
      Hey all,
      I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
      Thanks! 
    • By Admin
      Looking for Yamaha ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Yamaha ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Yamaha ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply. 
      The following Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:
      CycleVin.com - Use Our Off-Road Vehicle Search to look up ATVs and more!
      KBB.com https://www.kbb.com/vehicle-history-report/
      CARFAX https://www.carfax.com
      autoDNA https://www.autodna.com
      VinAudit http://www.vinaudit.com/
      decodeTHIS https://www.decodethis.com
      VINCario https://vindecoder.eu/
      NICB Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck 
    • By Suzukiquad
      I have a 97 Yamaha Timberwolf and it is beyond loud, is there any good options to silence them or at least make them bare able to drive. I know it has a crack in the exhaust pipe, but even with that fixed its still loud. 
    • By dhallftworth
      Hi everyone, I received a 98 Yamaha Timberwolf from my brother for free, and I'm working on getting it going. 
      I am having the following problem: 
      The engine is backfiring through the carb. 
      I have done the following to try and get the four wheeler running: 
      Rebuilt the carb and set the air screw to 1-1/4 turn out and the circlip at middle position 3
      Replaced the coil, because the cable was loose at the coil end
      Repaired the main ground, coming from the battery
      Replaced the ignition switch, because my brother couldn't find the key. New switch tested good
      Tested the kill switch and it tested good
      New coil tested goodfor both primary and secondary coils
      Pickup coil resistance is at 195, which is correct
      My source coil, is where I believe the issue is. The resistance is 310ohms, and it should be between 428-523ohms
      When I opened the stator housing, there was significant oil, which I have read is normal. Does it sound like I'm on the right track replacing the source coil? Could this be causing my backfiring issue? It looks like the source coil is part of the stator assembly, is this correct? 4BD-85510-20-00 STATOR ASSY
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...