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Hoping someone will be able to help.
I have a 2006 Kawasaki Prairie 700 with twin Keihin Carbs CKVR D32. The Rear Carb is leaking out the side during cranking. it is not the float bowl overflow. It is on the opposite side of the carb from the diaphragm.
I got this bike not running and someone had already messed with it. I took the carbs apart , cleaned and rebuilt. Everything went pretty easy. It looks like it could be missing a small tube between the carbs but I have all of them listed in the service manual installed. See the pic for where it is leaking from...
Any help would be much appreciated.. Thanks.
By Ashton Crawford
Hello everyone, i have 2000 Polaris Trail Blazer 300 I’ve been stumped on for weeks. I’m having a lot of issues starting the quad. I cleaned the carb spotless because I thought it was a carb issue and bought a new fuel line because it wasn’t getting fuel. The carb gets fuel perfectly fine now but it won’t start. The spark plug I a little worn out but it’s good enough for just one start. The only time it does “start” is when I spray starter fluid into the carb. But it never stays on. It’ll start for a bout a second then just die out immediately even if you’re giving it some throttle and the choke is on. I have no clue what I should do. If you need more information, have questions, or have any slight idea what the issue would be and how I could resolve it. Please reply ASAP. Thank you.
By Samuel Myers
So, I've been having issues with my Bayou 220. It's gotten to the point where it was parked for 4 years just because of the issues.
Issue 1, Grabby clutch: The clutch is adjusted incorrectly and grabs when shifting from neutral to 1st. It grabs before the engine has a chance to rev, which stalls it.
Issue 2, Starter clutch blown out: The starter clutch is busted and spins free both directions.
Issue 3, bad shocks: The springs or shocks are bad and the quad leans hard when getting on.
By Thomas Brooks
I know...I feel stupid for asking. I find it impossible to use the thumb throttle with my thumb when I have the bars turned full right. I have to reach across the top and grab the throttle from the front with my fingers. It isn't very smooth and I can't help but think that there must be a technique, mod or adjustment for this. How do I get past this?
2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 X2
I picked up my first ever ATV on friday. It's an 89 Big Bear. It has some cosmetic issues, but seems pretty decent mechanically. I did have trouble getting the idle tuned to the book spec of 1,300 - 1,500 RPM. I took the carb apart and cleaned it out. Somebody must have lost the spring for the pilot screw, as it's no longer in the carb. Also, I have a dual cable carb, I noticed all the IPL's show the single cable carb, but I see others on youtube had dual cable carbs. When I would adjust my idle speed screw, nothing would happen. I bottomed it out and it didn't seem to make much if any difference. When i pulled the carb apart I saw the screw doesn't even touch the linkage, it's too short. Do the two different versions have different length carb screws? I'm wondering if somebody lost the ordinal, replaced it with the IPL number for a single cable carb which is shorter, and gave up on getting the ATV to idle. If you hold the throttle just a bit to get it to the RPM range listed above, it "idles" great. Any ideas? Or any links to the dual cable IPL?
Have you guys have good luck with the aftermarket intake boots? Or is this a buy once, cry once deal? I'm guessing the OEM units last longer, but there is a huge price difference. If you have had good luck with aftermarket, where did you get it? My current boot doesn't seem to have any air leaks, but it's encased in JB weld...
I'm getting a 9th digit check sum error on the ATV when I put the VIN in. Has anybody seen this before on a Yamaha? The VIN number looks original as well as the paint around it.
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Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile. When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end. When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing. fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day. What I know.
Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin. When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run Seems to be free spinning with my finger read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad. now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out. But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year.
Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives? I even thought large computer case brushless fan. smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300. They run standard 12v DC.
Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?
By Guest Fox300exchic
The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
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