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Similar Forum Topics
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By jigolbeep
Well hunting season is getting close.. I figured i would start a thread to see who all is into hunting and for you to show off and discuss your guns, bows, trophy havest ect...
Here in south east Kansas I hunt deer, turkey, dove, quail, and travel north for pheasant.
I also do a little predator population control (coyote)
Here is a look into my safe...
My collection
(Encore pro hunter .223 barrel with red dot) (Gen 4Glock 22 .40cal with trigger kit) (Ruger Mark II Comp. target model stainless .22cal)
(Browning gold 20ga) (Remington 1187 20ga turkey choke and true glow sights) (Browning Citori Lightning Field 12ga)
(Savage 22-250cal model 12 Low Profile Varmint, treaded barrel with screw on muzzle break, Nikon 6x18 scope) (Bushmaster lower with Rock River 20" varmint upper with cheap Simons scope for now)
(30-06 barrel and rifle stock for my Encore reciever with 3x9 Nikon scope) (Bushmaster M4 shorty upper for my AR) (Ruger 77/22 .22cal, trigger work, Bushnell 4x12 scope) (Marlin model 60 .22cal)
P08 DWM Luger dated 1912 all matching numbers, has both original mags and leather pouch. My grandpa brough it back from Germany after WWII... This gun will never get sold...
PSE Stinger 70lb, 3 pin sight, drop away rest, Gold tip 5575 with rage 2 blade brodheads
My big doe from last season
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By jmeier1981
Ok guys Ive got a few more for ya.
TIRES:
Ive thought about getting new rubber for the wheeler it has some half worn down 25" Kenda executioners on it and Id like to get something that maybe rides a little better and does as good or better in the mud if thats an option. Any tire model suggestions? Also I would like to go to a 27" or mayb e even a 28" are there any disadvantages to doing this would I have to change anything on the wheeler to make up for the larger tires? Ive had a couple people tell me that they would be hard on the clutch.
WHEELS:
Ive seen some really nice looking aluminums but not sure they are tough enough to handle trail riding...Are they??? If so what would you reccommend, id like a little off set to give it a slightly wider stance and better stability but a buddy has a set of ITP wheels and the rear is offset a lot compared to the frnt and it looks great but hes constantly getting the back wheels hung up on trails
SNORKEL:
I see that the airbox on the brute is where a normal wheelers gas cap would be, so that being said am I good to go with water as long as it doesnt go over that point os is it not sealed up to the box? Also how about the belt and it staying dry, do I need to do anything to ensure that it doesnt get soaked and leave me stranded.
Oh by the way I love this thing the more I ride it the more Im glad I went with the powerhouse, Ive run with a couple polaris 500s 700s a grizzly 660, and 700 and a couple rincon 680s that were built and they cant touch my stock 750, although she likes her gas thats for sure i got about 50miles and Im needing a refill
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By Its-always-something
Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
Any help and information greatly appreciated.
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By p5200
Hello, what is the best method for installing bearings into their race? I've set one in place and tapped it down until it was metal on metal. Is that sufficient? Surely it's not supposed to go into the race until flush? Also. does the coil spring on the seal go into carrier bearing housing not facing out? Thanks! 🙂 Seal goes in until flush correct?
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By Ejwill
Should the clutch plates be so tight together that they can not be moved side to side? There is no play in them at all, will not move at all.
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