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2005 Suzuki LTZ 250 Quadsport Driveshaft U-Joint


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I just picked up a 05 LTZ 250 Quadsport 2wd and the u-joint in the driveshaft is shot. I have replaced u-joints in automobiles many times but never on an atv. I'm hoping someone can give me some pointers. 1st I need to know how to get the driveshaft out to replace the u-joint. On vehicles you remove the bolts from the pinion flange and slide the driveshaft out of the tail of the tranny and theres you shaft removal. Unfortunetly the wheeler is not setup like that. If someone can help that would be great.

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From what I can tell, the shaft needs to be un bolted from inside the case. There is a nut that holds the drive gear onto the shaft. It looks like there is a small side cover that comes off so you can access the end of the shaft and the drive gear attatched to it. Once you are in there, you may just be able to pull the shaft out without taking the pinion nut off. There is also a circlip that holds the u-joint on the shaft on the output side. Look up your model on this parts fische and look up the secondary drive, and the crankcase diagrams. You will see what I am talking about.

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Thanks for the replies guys. :) The u-joint was so bad and had so much play in it that I actually was able to remove the circlips and use a hammer and old flat head screw driver and push the caps back out of the ears on the shafts. Once the u-joint was out the out put shaft slid out of the tranny and the drive shaft slid out of the rearend. I cleaned up all the splines with a wire brush and before I put it back together I'll grease all of the splines. When I put the new u-joint in I'll put shafts back in place and install the u-joint with the shafts in place. I think they may have designed it to be done this way anyways. I can't image having to take the rearend apart to change a u-joint. Sometimes I think they design things to be difficult so we have to take our stuff to the dealer to keep them in business. Again thanks for the help guys. I will update once the part comes in and I get it installed.

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I was wondering if that would work, it seemed like they must have put that clip in there for convenient access to the joint, I really didn't see any other reason for it. But it seems like nothing is conveniently engineered anymore, I know nothing on my LTR is convenient. I have to remove the fuel tank just to change the spark plug.

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It seemed to work for me. The new joint will be in today so we'll see how it goes when I try installing it that way. The whole removing the tank to replace a plug is exactly the kind of stuff I'm talking about. If they made it easy to do everybody could do it and nobody would bring their stuff to the shop.

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That rearend is the same as the Ozarks, so please check the rearend bearings to. I had to replace all the bearings and U joints in the some shot. Almost forgot check the seals to. That rearend does not like water at all.

The u-joint is in and you were right the bearings are shot. I drained and replaced the diff fluid to be sure it was free of water. Now I need a few pointers on changing the bearings. Do to the bearings being bad when I turn the machine I get a grinding/crunching noise from the back end. I think it is because with the bad bearings the axel twists a bit when turning. If someone can maybe guide me in the directions of a rear bearing change write up that would be great.

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I looked at the microfiche and it looks pretty straight forward. I'll need to get a good pair if circlip removal pliers because there looks to be one on each side that will need to be removed. Just waiting to get some extra cash to order the parts. I will keep you posted.

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I'm sure I'll have another wheeler again someday so I'll be back. I did not fix it. I was going to order the parts but discovered it not only needed the rear axle bearings but also brakes all the way around and a battery. I traded it to a guy who restores old bikes and wanted a four wheeler to fix up. I didn't want to spend a bunch of money on it because I felt it was a bit to small for me. Not the engine size it had plenty of power but the actual size of the machine. They are geared more towards people that are a bit smaller in stature. I'm 6'0" and 235lbs. I looked a like a monkey screwing a football when I was on it. I traded it for a 1986 XL250R that is alot taller and longer which made it a better fit for me. Here's a couple pics.



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