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gmel

2005 Suzuki Ozark 250 Poor Idle

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Need some help please.

My 2005 250 ozark starts, idles, and runs great for about 5 minutes. Then it wants to shut off at idle and restarts ok but won't idle. After riding it for a while longer it dosen't want to start once it shuts off.

After rebuilding the carb is when it, starts, idles, and runs great for about 5 minutes.

Fresh gas, checked the petcock for blockage.

This seems to be a common problem, any one know a fix?

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Check your fuel lines for cracking, recheck float adjustment, recheck the jets and make sure you got everything good and clean. Now a good sign is to check the spark plug is it wet with gas, black looking, ect. It would help if you pulled the plug and post it's condition. There is a lot of people on here that can help the more info the better. A bad coil can cause one to shut off as the coil gets hot but I think you would be able to run it more than 5mins. Good luck!

Edited by hangingon

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Do the symptoms change when you play with the choke adjustment?

* Added manufacturer and issue to thread title.

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Thanks for the replys!

This will give me a few things to do tomorrow afternoon.

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This carb has a strange choke system, nothing I am familiar with. I have the cable tension adjusted as slack as possible.

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I rebuilt the carb. It really improved the starting and idle. It was hard to start and would not idle at all, if it shut off after riding for 10 - 20 minutes no way it would start back until it cooled. It seems to run fine now until it gets hot, then it won't idle. It ran the other day for 30 minutes, I could feather the throttle to keep it running at idle. Eventually it got to the point it would not start.

Is there something I may have missed during the rebuild

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Have you played with the idle? Ozarks can be very fussy. Hows they plug looking?

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Playing with the throttle and it stays running to me is a sign of not enough gas when needed...I guess I'd redo the carb. just in case. I dont doubt your abilities, but carbs can be a bear!!

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Rode until it wouldn't idle anymore, 10-15 min. Pulled the plug and it is dry and very black. The plug has about 1 hour of run time on it..

I really need this thing running; any ideas?

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Getting back to a bad coil; would there be any other symptoms other than not wanting to idle.

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This thing does not really have a choke, it has a brass plunger. Not sure how it works!

Also has a vacuum operated petcock i am not familiar with.

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If I dismantle the carb again, what should I be looking for?

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How to Read Spark Plug Colors (written by Atlantic Jet Sports)

In General: Reading spark plugs can be a valuable tuning aid. By examining the spark plug insulator color, an experienced personal watercraft engine tuner can determine valuable information about the engine's overall operating condition.

Normal: Grey to Light Golden-Brown Color

This condition is ideal, the spark plug and engine air/fuel mixture are operating properly.

Dry: Black Soot Buildup

Air/fuel mixture is too rich, the carburetor settings are incorrect, or the flame arrestor is dirty or has mounting problems.

Spark plug heat range is too cold for the operating conditions.

Ignition system problems causing a weak or intermittent spark.

Wet Fouling: Shiny, Wet, Black Appearance

Excessive use of the choke (gas fouled)

Prolonged low rpm operation (gas or oil fouled)

Fuel to oil ratio is too rich (oil fouled)

Excess Deposits: Bumpy, Chalky Buildup

Poor fuel quality

Oil leakage into combustion chamber

Improper oil used for premix/injected

Overheated: White, Blistered, Melted Electrode

Lean air/fuel mixture

Spark plug heat range is too hot for operating condition of the engine

Plug is not properly gapped and/or torqued onto head

Overly advanced timing

A detonation problem would show signs, such as silver specs, black specs, or melting or breakage at the firing tip.

NOTE: Signs of fouling or excessive heat must be traced quickly to prevent further deterioration of performance and to prevent possible engine damage.

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See what you all think about this.

When I purchased this thing it would hardly start or run, kept flooding out.

Adjusted the valves and rebuilt the carb; started, ran, and idled perfectly; until it got hot.

After inspecting the coil , I decided to check the oil level. The oil had a lot of fuel in it, so I changed it. Since changing the oil this thing runs perfectly.

Do you suppose it was starting to seize up when it got hot and that is why it would quit ideling?

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Still running great; thanks for everyones input. Just in time for deer season!!

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