Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

gmel

2005 Suzuki Ozark 250 Poor Idle

Recommended Posts

Need some help please.

My 2005 250 ozark starts, idles, and runs great for about 5 minutes. Then it wants to shut off at idle and restarts ok but won't idle. After riding it for a while longer it dosen't want to start once it shuts off.

After rebuilding the carb is when it, starts, idles, and runs great for about 5 minutes.

Fresh gas, checked the petcock for blockage.

This seems to be a common problem, any one know a fix?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Check your fuel lines for cracking, recheck float adjustment, recheck the jets and make sure you got everything good and clean. Now a good sign is to check the spark plug is it wet with gas, black looking, ect. It would help if you pulled the plug and post it's condition. There is a lot of people on here that can help the more info the better. A bad coil can cause one to shut off as the coil gets hot but I think you would be able to run it more than 5mins. Good luck!

Edited by hangingon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do the symptoms change when you play with the choke adjustment?

* Added manufacturer and issue to thread title.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replys!

This will give me a few things to do tomorrow afternoon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


This carb has a strange choke system, nothing I am familiar with. I have the cable tension adjusted as slack as possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I rebuilt the carb. It really improved the starting and idle. It was hard to start and would not idle at all, if it shut off after riding for 10 - 20 minutes no way it would start back until it cooled. It seems to run fine now until it gets hot, then it won't idle. It ran the other day for 30 minutes, I could feather the throttle to keep it running at idle. Eventually it got to the point it would not start.

Is there something I may have missed during the rebuild

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Playing with the throttle and it stays running to me is a sign of not enough gas when needed...I guess I'd redo the carb. just in case. I dont doubt your abilities, but carbs can be a bear!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rode until it wouldn't idle anymore, 10-15 min. Pulled the plug and it is dry and very black. The plug has about 1 hour of run time on it..

I really need this thing running; any ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Getting back to a bad coil; would there be any other symptoms other than not wanting to idle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This thing does not really have a choke, it has a brass plunger. Not sure how it works!

Also has a vacuum operated petcock i am not familiar with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


How to Read Spark Plug Colors (written by Atlantic Jet Sports)

In General: Reading spark plugs can be a valuable tuning aid. By examining the spark plug insulator color, an experienced personal watercraft engine tuner can determine valuable information about the engine's overall operating condition.

Normal: Grey to Light Golden-Brown Color

This condition is ideal, the spark plug and engine air/fuel mixture are operating properly.

Dry: Black Soot Buildup

Air/fuel mixture is too rich, the carburetor settings are incorrect, or the flame arrestor is dirty or has mounting problems.

Spark plug heat range is too cold for the operating conditions.

Ignition system problems causing a weak or intermittent spark.

Wet Fouling: Shiny, Wet, Black Appearance

Excessive use of the choke (gas fouled)

Prolonged low rpm operation (gas or oil fouled)

Fuel to oil ratio is too rich (oil fouled)

Excess Deposits: Bumpy, Chalky Buildup

Poor fuel quality

Oil leakage into combustion chamber

Improper oil used for premix/injected

Overheated: White, Blistered, Melted Electrode

Lean air/fuel mixture

Spark plug heat range is too hot for operating condition of the engine

Plug is not properly gapped and/or torqued onto head

Overly advanced timing

A detonation problem would show signs, such as silver specs, black specs, or melting or breakage at the firing tip.

NOTE: Signs of fouling or excessive heat must be traced quickly to prevent further deterioration of performance and to prevent possible engine damage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

See what you all think about this.

When I purchased this thing it would hardly start or run, kept flooding out.

Adjusted the valves and rebuilt the carb; started, ran, and idled perfectly; until it got hot.

After inspecting the coil , I decided to check the oil level. The oil had a lot of fuel in it, so I changed it. Since changing the oil this thing runs perfectly.

Do you suppose it was starting to seize up when it got hot and that is why it would quit ideling?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still running great; thanks for everyones input. Just in time for deer season!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Admin
      We would like to wish everyone a Fantastic Memorial Day Weekend!


      SUPPORT OUR TROOPS!




    • By wwdubose
      I have two 2003 Suzuki Ozark 250s, both 2-wheel drive.  Last time we rode them about a year ago, the red one was not running well, didn't want to idle, backfired a lot.  The green one ran fine. 
      Fast forward...I ordered a carb kit for both of them, thinking the red one has some trash in a jet.  Both of these ATVs have had little use and I've always ran the gas out after use (put an inline cutoff valve in gas line).  I pull started the red one to verify it was still running bad.  It will start and idle, but as soon as you give it any throttle, it dies instantly.  Give it a little choke, dies instantly.  Took the carb apart and it was spotless.  Went ahead and cleaned all the holes with carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air.  All new jets, main jet holder, and needles.  Put it back on and nothing changed.  Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas.  Same happens when you put the choke on.  It does the same thing when I try to run it turned to prime on the petcock as it does in the on position.
      Not an air filter issue.  It is clean and it does the same exact thing with no filter on it.
      Thought maybe there was a float issue or maybe a damaged diaphragm, so I took the carb off the green Ozark and put it on red.  Started up and initially ran normal and revved for about 10 seconds and then started doing the same exact thing.  Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas.  Same happens when you put the choke on. 
      So...not the carb
      Thought maybe vacuum petcock was bad, but there's no gas in the vacuum line going from petcock to carb and gas flows freely when on prime.  I even plugged the vacuum line at both the petcock and carb end and tried to run it with valve set to prime.  Gas flows freely, but does exactly the same thing.  I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the bowl and gas flows thru carb and out bowl drain line when petcock is set to prime.
      So, I'm assuming petcock is good?
      Checked spark plug and it wasn't fouled.  Reset gap, didn't help.  Will swap plugs between Ozarks tomorrow but I don't think that is it.
      Anyway, that he history and now you're all caught up.  Scratching my head.  Valves? These were bought at same time and have had little use.  Suggestions?
      Thanks!   
    • By amharrison24
      i have a 91 moto 4 100. has electric start only. for as long as i could remember we have always pushed start it. after riding for while you shut it off. you are able to hit the start button and it will start right up. anyone know where i should start with fixing this issue? im fixing it up for my niece. thank you in advance.
    • By Steven Urban
      First time using this forum.  Owned a Kawasaki dirt bike once, had no issues.  But I picked up this 4 wheeler at an auction.  They stated it ran, but only needed a battery.  Well I do not believe that was all true.

      Some pictures are attached.  Not sure why, but the whole air filter stuff was removed.  They had some small thing inserted as a make shift air filter.

      I purchased a battery to try this all out.  Waiting to return it and get the proper size, as it was too big for the battery box.  But here is my issue I had while the battery was connected.

      1 - The lights on the steering column did not come on.  Not sure if they work or not.

      2 - The starter solenoid seems to be bad.  I have a new one on order. 

      3 - In the pick, there is another rusted part.  Not sure what that part is or what it is used for.

      4 - What is the 12v rectifier?  square bodied part.

      So when I hooked the battery up.  Pushing the start button did nothing.  Pulling the cord to try and pull start, it turned, but would never fire.  I have put in a new spark plug as well, it looked worn out.  With electric start, I crossed over the posts on the start solenoid, it turned over, but would never fire and start.

      I have read a few other threads and it stated something about needed the neutral light on.  SOmething about a kill switch.

      Any help would be appreciated.



  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Michael Aiken
      Where can I find a wiring diagram for my 2005 450 Kodiak. Thanks.
    • By Mo Salem
      So my front hub broke, I’d like to put aftermarket on. Hard to find new oe ones. Please help. I’m new to all of this, I have some car knowledge and try to apply it
    • By oxidized_black
      tag : zukifreak
       
       
       
    • By LMI
      Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile.  When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end.  When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing.  fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day.  What I know.
      Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin.  When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run Seems to be free spinning with my finger read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad.  now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out.  But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year.
      Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives?  I even thought large computer case brushless fan.  smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300.  They run standard 12v DC.
      Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?
    • Guest Fox300exchic
      By Guest Fox300exchic
      The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...