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By Adrian Ciotinga
I recently picked up an ‘07 KFX 700. All was going well, rode it about 40 miles, when it started bogging at low speeds. If I kept the revs higher, I was just fine. Also, a persistent issue since I picked it up is the fairly difficult start (but it is abnormally cold right now and the quad is jetted for the dunes at summertime).
Regarding the complete lack of idle, I have to rev it a couple times to get it to idle after starting it, after which it’s 50/50 whether it remains idling. I don’t have low fuel, but all of this began after I rode it pretty hard and the radiator fan kicked in. Might be overheating, just wanted to hear your opinions.
ok help so according the service manual, Idle Air Mix Screw (aka Pilot screw) should be initially set to 2.5 turns out from fully seated.
If I do that the motor doesn't want to start or stay running...right now the pilot screw is probably somewhere near 5 turns out....I'll take the carb off tomorrow to count to know for sure.
mind you the carb got a new float seat,float needle and various other components in the kit.
To get the motor running I hard to turn the pilot screw out quite a bit, and turned the idle speed screw in quite a bit...I didn't hook up an inductive tach to know what it is idling at, but does sound about right.
What should the idle speed adjustment screw initially be set at (the one that has the black cable sheath with a knob you can twist easily)?
Is there a special tool to turn the idle/pilot mix screw whilst the carb is on the running motor? I am using a slotted screw driver bit (normally goes into a driver) by hand..makes it hard to turn the driver and hard to tell how many turns .
Passing thought here and thought I'd pitch it to the group for debate. I'm working through a Kodiak which is basically a Big Bear in a heavier bike and the same as about anything Japanese made for 30 years as far as clutch function and design goes. This Kodiak is odd though in that the centrifugal clutch slipped a bit with good clutch material remaining and the main clutch pack seems to slip a bit as well at high RPM but also still has good clutch material left. Much like the Kawa race bikes from what I've read. Do you think it's an option to add a thin washer to the pressure bolts to put a bit more pressure on the main clutch and force it to use a bit more of the clutch material before having to replace? There's seriously like 50% of fiber left on the main clutch pack and it seems silly to replace it all before it's truly worn down.
Exploiting a loop hole in the law, turn 4 wheeler into rev trike
for a long while I have been trying to get a real 4 wheeler street legal.
the problem is with the state laws, if it has 4 wheels, its a car and has mega more rules.
If it only has 3 wheels, its a trike and can be made from cobbled junk parts held together with duct tape and they will plate it
I wonder if anyone would have insight on changing a 4 wheeler over to a single rear wheel?
[ I can't afford some $40-60,000 canam or super bike modded into a car, rev trike kit ]
I want something I can truly ride year round on and off road. Ive rode enough old Honda 3 wheelers that I know I do not want a traditional motorcycle trike. So the single wheel has to go out back.
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I was riding my 400ex one day and when i shut it off to put it in the garage i tried to start it put again to drive it into the garge and it wouldnt start.I put a compression tester on it and its like 30 psi with out throttle and 0 psi WITH THROTTLE.
when i put my finger over the hole it fell likes its pulling my finger in more then its pushing it out
Has good spark.When i took it into the shop the said it had 1oz of oil in it and a tiny pit of metal shaving(TINY BIT LIKE 30 flakes)
When i try to pull start (push start/roll start) it made a not normal sound and wouldnt stay running.
If my bottom end is blow why would it still turn over fine,
Are my valves siezed or not working properly
or is my timing off causeing valves to not open in correct order with fire
PLEASE HELP all help is appreciated
By Coral Breding
I loosened the allen bolts on the carrier and when I went to put my driver in the alot to pull back and tighten the chain, I noticed the holes were facing the front of the bike. I tried to slide a driver in and tighten the chain but the thing would not budge. I nearly ripped the tip off the driver in the slot. Any suggestions?
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