ddiggerr

1994 Yamaha Big Bear 350 - Dead And Alive !!

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Hi

Just picked up a BB for $650 as the PO just threw in the white towel. There is no spark with either the electric start or pull start. The stator is new, new battery, new key switch, new plug.

I have gone over every wire and cleaned everything and checked all I could with multimeter.

I'm stumped myself why I wouldn't get any spark with theh pull start.

Could this be the pickup coil?

wires coming out of stator are red and white, green and brown, and 3 yellow wires

I get continuity from red and white but nothing from green and brown or the yellows

Its a hair puller and hoping its just the pickup coil and not the cdi

thanks

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when i replaced the stator on my '91, i had to switch the 2 wires out in the connector off the stator. a red and white i believe. i had the same thing happen as you. found the instruction/data sheet and told to do just that ...

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When you say you had to switch the 2 wires, do you mean you went from red to white and white to red or some other combination using the original wires against the new wires?? I'm only asking as I don't have the paper work for this supposedly new stator that was installed in bike before I purchased it.

I will post pictures later today

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yes, i had to switch the red to white and white to red. after installing the stator, the was little or no spark at the plug, but, after i moved the wires, brilliant blue spark

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I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Whats the worse thing that could happen ..... it not work .... well, I'm already at that point

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exactly ... it's probably an aftermarket stator and not an OEM. OEM would just connect and go, while the aftermarkets need to be tweaked a little ...

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Tested the pickup coil and stator and here are my readings

red and white = 318 ohms (pickup coil)

green and brown = 272 ohms not sure what these wires are for

I also tried swapping the red and white and still nothing.

Would the low reading on red and white mean a bad pickup coil?

The reading for the green - brown seems to be on the low end of the numbers I read. I should have (270-330 ohms) and the low reading for the pickup is way below the numbers I read (459-561 ohms)

I've also got a new CDI waiting to be ordered.

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if you haven't ordered a new cdi, i have a used one from my 91 which is good. the PO replaced everything electrical on my bike but left the stator. i replaced the stator and all was good ...

i'll look into the readings, there's a manual in post#3 in the yamaha atv manual section if you need one ...

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Would the low reading on red and white mean a bad pickup coil?

when i ordered my stator, the pick up coil came with it. as far as i know, they are part and parcel, but you can order the pick up coil on it's own ...

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Just curious.

Would you know if a CDI for a 1996 Yamaha Warrior YFM350 is compatible with a 1995 Big Bear YFM350?

I can purchase one at a real steal of a deal, but would only purchase if it's compatible.

Thanks

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Just curious.

Would you know if a CDI for a 1996 Yamaha Warrior YFM350 is compatible with a 1995 Big Bear YFM350?

I can purchase one at a real steal of a deal, but would only purchase if it's compatible.

Thanks

just looked on bike bandit and different numbers for cdi. i looked at my 91 and its the same.

you are in winnipeg? if you want my used one i'll give it to you. just pay me for the shipping.

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Update on the Bear.

Tore into carb and cleaned it up. Didn't need much cleaning as it appeared spotless and all gaskets already looked new. Found the rubber on the intake between carb and motor was torn and split in 2.

For now going to use a plumbing coupling as a temporary fix.

Starting on rear brake caliper as it was caked with mud, hay, an grass. The brake pedal arm looks bent and not really doing anything. The hand brake lever is loose and sloppy on the brake mechanism on rear wheel.

I took cover off and rotor looks good, but I did notice I cannot line up the marks on the arm at the back as it was installed the wrong way. It appears I need to remove axle nut to take off wheel hub to remove brakes.

Easier said then done. I've been soaking it in PB Blaster then using a 3/4" drive breaker bar and beating it with BF hammer and haven't budge it.

Will keep trying .........:aargh:

Edited by ddiggerr

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Opened dust cover on rear brakes and got them apart. PO had busted the wings off wing nut at end of brake pedal rod and the brake lever wing nut was seized on. What a pain getting those off.

Brakes were just caked with more mud and crud. Got new brake lever cable and will get everything cleaned and back together. I will need to figure out the brake pedal rod though. Looks like its too long and was replaced with whatever was available to the PO.

Never did get axle nut loose and at this point, I'm not going to try breaking it loose at this time.

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sent some pics of the cdi unit to your mail here. the numbers are close and one connection looks diff to me but if it will work ... a friend of mine said you might be able to use it as long as we share the same spark plug. my machine uises an NGK DR8EA

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Just went out and checked plug and it is an NGK DR8EA.

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It's been confrmed, I need to replace the CDI. I spoke with the Yamaha dealer here and he advised me that the previous owner brought the quad in to be checked out.

I was also advised that the previous owner was told he needed to replace the CDI. It would have been nice to know this information when I bought it. Oh well, maybe he thought I wouldn't buy it if I knew about the CDI.

Next I need to replace the intake manifold, as the rubber holding it together tore in half.

That can of worms is getting bigger everyday ....... :skeptic:

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**SOLVED**

Readjusted everything and they seem to be working now. MAN !!! are my fingers numb. Friggn' cold outside!

I adjusted the rear brakes per manual, however I will also be replacing brake handle cable and need to figure out this rear brake pedal rod.

Does anyoe know what the correct length of this rod is suppose to be from end to end?

Once I hook it up and spin on the wing nuts (as far as they will go on), my foot still almost touches the ground when the brakes are applied. The brake lever on the brakes themselve stop where they should, however the rod appears to be too long and gives alot of travel, too much travel.

Will attept to attach photos in a bit

Edited by ddiggerr

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Finally got out with camera . It's about 90% complete. Just waiting on CDI and need to paint plastics.

[ATTACH]1445[/ATTACH]

bigbear.jpg.655b258eb16b011e8aa6d6573cce3fe6.jpg

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Grrrrr .....

New question. I believe I have a switch on rear brake lever that requires me to have brake applied to start and at the same time the run switch needs to be on, key switch on, and bike in neutral.

My issue is, all I need to do is turn key, put into neutral and push start button and motor turns over. Is it suppose to turn over even if the kill switch is set to off, brake not applied or is it suppose to do nothing until all 4 requirements are set?

I find it odd that it would even turn over with kill switch set to off.

:mad:

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It will start in neutral without the brake. But I think something is going on with your kill switch.

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Hmmm ....

checked the ignition coil today. My multi reader has settings of 20K, 200K, 2000K, 200, and 2000

My readings were:

Primary coil at 200 = 1.0 ohms

Secondary at 20K = 17.07 ohms

I was not getting a reading for the primary on anyother setting. The reading for the secondary was about the same on others.

I even cut back the end of the plug wire 1/2" with no change.

Going by these readings, is the ignition coil my culprit?

My source is reading 240 ohms and my pickup is reading 280 ohms. According to manual these are way off. Man .... I am so confused on these readings. Not sure whats good and whats bad ...

Edited by ddiggerr

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CDI rewiring finally done after 3-4 hours of searching the web to match everything up. Now just waiting for ingition coil and stator/pickup from dealer.

Hopefully today

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