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By Kaz
Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
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By Joeguy
I been working on this thing for like 2 months now and it will not run right, is very smokey, and has a pretty loud tap that i think is in the bottom end. Not sure how much the parts are but i will put the time into it if they are pretty cheap. Im not very experienced but going off how the plug looks and the oil on top of the piston i am getting a whole lot of oil coming in from somewhere, not sure if it can come from the valves or if the rings are just shot, my cheap scope cant really see the walls of the cylinder too well.
20241009_123850.mp4 -
By p5200
I've been using Valvolene 10w 40 ATV oil but, it's like $8.00 a quart. Is that about the going rate? Or is there cheaper alternatives that would be suitable? Thanks
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By Dumass
My name says it all. I have a '03 Honda Sporttrax 400EX with a new aftermarket carb on it that seems to be having issues. I can start it but it idles really rough and when I give it throttle it just kills the engine. I have tried adjusting the idle screw but to no avail. I am in the San Diego Ca area.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to get an owners manual for the thing too but can't seem to find a downloadable one.
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By Wam12905
Hey all!
I recently acquired an 02 big bear 400 this past summer, carb on it was shot to sh** (pics attached) so my father recommended I just buy a new one off amazon. I purchased the first one that came up as compatible and once it came in, I bolted it in and it fired right up with no noticeable issues. Once I got to the trails with it I realized that on any un-level ground, there's little power output. I checked with 3 different local shops and they all refused to work on tuning up off brand carbs because of how terrible they are. One shop had a motorcycle in with an aftermarket carb and the mechanic said that that would be me if I brought my big bear in. Whoever owned the motorcycle and needed their aftermarket carb tuned up had racked up the bill to nearly $1500. Needless to say he made it clearly obvious that putting any amount of money into an aftermarket carb is not worth it. Now that I've learned all of this, I'm wishing I didn't toss the old carb for a $30 amazon one. In light of this minor f-up does anybody have any recommendations for high quality carbs for my vehicle? I've also attached pictures of the old carb and its condition for your curiosity, although its current condition is likely 6 feet under in a landfill somewhere.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283488113569?_skw=Big+Bear+400+Carburetor+Oem&epid=10042848409&itmmeta=01JCDWCTMJX5GBC407RF2PPVDD&hash=item42013553a1:g:INUAAOSwn8llquIL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkIMhqd%2Fye0vA0YMR5DUzMoCLl0F9GPNRfuAJKaylVqqyVrZCBJVvXQaPrlosjt%2FZnIHyIRPuGiIbxC9o%2B02UqGA4YqXDyyH4bVebnTPz8P5Elg76CvLdu3KyZgwpgpSeYJK2IOWtlo9vtTld7RVjqPwSv1VF26v6kyXGesAB%2BA%2BCHsj3OnqNrHMyKCBuDMSSvUWvOfq%2BKsZKqyHR7yduef%2BHBlXvfiyRJPThHr7Ge9n%2BHBbuxRCb4oF7%2Fp8oZsvajHy9YDitFRfNJeeAssYbgXuhAc7AVvUZZ2YxKW9GzDdxltLMap8orKJtr%2BIk0SRGQ%3D|tkp%3ABFBMsqqzvONk
I found this one on EBAY that advertises as a genuine OEM part for a fraction of the $650 that they're normally worth. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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