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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/27/2019 in all areas

  1. @Steven Turner Thanks for the input but as @Frank Angerano stated, it was the compression release and now its running AMAZING! Don't need any throttle nor choke and it starts in a fraction of a second. Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this forum yall were so much help
    1 point
  2. Yes sir. Harness is about 50.00, that's what my deductible is. I would fix it but it will cost the same and I want th ore vibration issue looked at also. Only 800 trail miles on the machine. 4 trail riding trips. not fond of mudding, thorough cleaning after every ride. No built up mud in/on rims. I get harrased about my clean equipment by the guys I ride with all the time.
    1 point
  3. Can’t see the video. I did a quick search on that problem and the remedy seems to be a replacement plug/harness. Looks like the injector plug and about 10 inches of wire that comes with a splice kit. Sound right to you?
    1 point
  4. Bought a electric 1800psi pressure washer at Lowe's for other projects for around $100...but works great on the ATV caked in mud..spray Simple Green on beforehand and pressure wash off mud and grime.
    1 point
  5. We have a cabin in Dunbar, trails were awesome Saturday, weather in the 60s. Did around 150 miles. Rain all day Sunday, some on Monday. They do a great job on the trails with all the water the have had.
    1 point
  6. Stained, sealed and ready to roll! This weather is a good indicator how the water will bead up on the wood and see how well the sealer worked. FYI did anyone know Thompson’s water sealer has been banned in the state ? I went to the store to get some and they said it’s no longer available here in NY due to a chemical that is harmful. I wound up using a new oil based product that seems to be good but we will see.
    1 point
  7. This may sound weird but you can check all the axles and shafts for a bend but it’s a pain in the as*. I’ve checked drive shafts and axles for bends by getting the wheels off of the ground so they all spin free. I took a piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe that’s two feet long and drilled a small hole through the pipe at the end. I stuck a 3 inch long screw into the pipe all the way through so the last 2-1/2 inches are sticking out the other side of the pipe. I took the pipe and placed it where I can clamp it to the frame of the bike and the screw is close to and pointed at the shafts your looking at. The screwtip should be just under a 1/4 inch from any axle your looking at. Rotate the wheels by hand so the axle spins and see if the shaft gets closer to the screw tip or even hits it. If it does mark that spot with a marker. In addition to and before going through all of this you should start by looking for any obvious damage to the shafts first. I attached some pics for you to help visualize what I’m talking about.
    1 point
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