Welcome to the crazy Quadcrazy forum!

Thanks for having me. A great forum is built on participation and from what I've seen this is a great place. I'm picking up 4 blue KQ 300's in the morning. They're in various stages of decrepitude so the plan is to build one. Gathered lots of info here already, thanks for sharing your knowledge!

will do. y'all go help some other folks - you've spent waaaaay too much time w/ me today. I was off today and am off tomorrow. i'll get carb back on soon and try to shoot short video of it running. 24k gold carb man

Agreed! I was just able to download as well. I am now able to open videos that i could not before on my phone! Sweet!! So it could be a sluggish starter. I don't want to throw any major suggestions out there but the decompression/compression release could be having a problem. Go the simple route first and make sure you didn't get a skunk battery. Maybe a dead cell inside from the factory, it happens. Check all wire connections like i mentioned earlier so you can eliminate any of that.

@Guy Churchward I converted your .MOV video to .MP4 which plays on more devices 😎

@Guy Churchward I downloaded the video you attached and it looks like you are getting it to crank, but its weak. You then got it started at the end of the video. What I don't understand is that if you changed the battery, why did you need to jump start it? Is that a booster pack you are using? Was the battery fully charged? Looks to me like its not enough battery/booster power to the starter or a bad starter the way it sounds when its cranking.

Hey guy welcome to Quadcrazy. Do you hear the solenoid click when you press the start button? If so great, take a tester or test light and put it on the wire on the starter that's covered with a small rubber boot and press the start button, if you get 12V then its a bad starter or brushes If you get no click then do the following: Pop the seat off you will see the red wire coming from the battery to a starter relay/solenoid. The solenoid has two wires bolted on it, one from the battery and the other goes to the starter. There is a small fuse next to this solenoid in a rubber cover that holds the solenoid. Check that fuse first and see what you find. You can jump the two wires together for a second ONLY A SECOND and you should get a little spark and the engine should crank. If it does not then its one of two things most likely. A: starter is bad B: starter brushes are bad. Both inexpensive to replace. My guess would be brushes. Before you start taking things apart first loosen and retighten the wires on the starter and the relay and check all grounds.

Welcome to QUADCRAZY!

@Randel1 the best ratio that’s I’ve seen that’s works the best is a 80-20 mix of the Materials you noted. 20% boiled oil is optimal. but try on a small area as it will take multiple tries to rid the surface of the oxidation. good luck

First check the fan fuse to make sure its good. Your model is a liquid cooled so the sensor is mounted near the bottom of the radiator. Unplug it and with the key on, jump out the two pins on the wiring side and see if the fan comes on. If it does not, check to see if one pin has 12 volts to ground. Typically the fan is also a 2 pin plug, you can disconnect it and run 12 volts directly to the fan to check to make sure its good. There is also a diode in the circuit that prevents the fan from backfeeding into the wiring, this may have gone bad, on your model it shows it as an external part, on later models it was inside the wiring harness. Mike

My buddy got some Rust Check over spray on some faded blue Polaris Magnum plastics and when he wiped it off it looked great so he did the rest of the quad. It's been months and it still looks like new. Cheap enough to be worth a try on purpose.

Whats up @Kawiherder what year make and model? Im assuming Kawasaki by your name. That light comes on from a sensor in the top of the cylinder head that acts independently from the fan. If its water cooled then there is a sensor on the right side of the lower portion of the radiator. Take the two wires off that sensor and jump them together. If the fan comes on then the sensor is bad. If the fan does not come on then the power going to that sensor needs to be checked. Thats done by using a simple test light or tester. One of the wires on the sensor should have 12V power on it. If not then start tracing that wire back to its source, maybe fuse or there are inline circuit breakers on the wire to the fan on some models. Now if you have power at the sensor and when you jump the two wires on the sensor and the fan does not come on then it could be a bad ground on the sensor or a bad fan so you have to start looking at the fan itself and the wires coming off of it. All of the above testing needs to be done with the key on.