Thanks Frank! Trails were on the dry side,then we found the water that we did not cross last week,this week we went through it. not bad. Leota Quad Trails 4-11-20 Part Three

Ok thanks. I'll try that out.

I went and hooked the jumper cable to the starter post and it started right off then I took the long starter cable loose from the solenoid and hooked the jumper from the starter post to the solenoid end of the cable and it started so then I took the battery out and checked the cells and found one cell completely dead with the others about half charged and this is after I had charged the battery the end of this week.I don't know if you can check a small battery with a load test but that is my next move. Advise if I'm on track. Thanks Oh yes and I should say I got the battery just last summer but that doesn't mean it can't still go bad.

oh...another little fyi...the starter solenoid on those bikes is in a terrible spot under yer left butt cheek. Whenever my starter acts up I clean the connections on the solenoid and she's good to go again...

I've had 3 of those bikes '91.'92, 93and still have the 92. Electrical is usually an issue with the spade terminals in the power distribution panel under the cover to the left of the headlight. I have twice had to pull and individually clean the entire panel and connectors to rectify electrical problems in those bikes. It seems like a common issue and if it sat outside there is a good chance that a few are corroded. The rear brakes are adjusted with the black knob sticking out of the rear caliper over top of the chain guard on the right side of the bike right beside the recoil. You can feel the pedal come up as you adjust it. It doesn't take much to get brakes back if there is pad left. Remember, the rear brake is a driveline brake and only works when it's in gear. Step on it before shifting and it won't grind into gear ; ) FYI, there is a burp valve on the top of the head that you bleed air from the cooling system with. If you ever get a leak make sure you bleed the air before you run it or you'll melt er down. This is my '92

Wow that looks a lot like the trails I ride. Good stuff!

Absolutely welcome brother. Looks like you ordered the right stuff! I agree with throwing the new gasket on but just spray carburetor cleaner on the one way clutch and clean it good. I think fresh oil and and you will be good to go. Worst case it acts up and you have the new one on hand.

No. Bottom line is this, if you jump the lugs on the solenoid the starter should spin! Unless there is a problem with the big wire going to the starter (which i doubt) then it should spin. You can take a jumper wire and go from the positive terminal on the battery and touch the lug on the starter itself to see if she spins. If not then there is a bigger problem within the engine. But one step at a time. Report back please.

The relay wont buzz when you jump the lugs. The reason for jumping the lugs was to see if the starter works in the engine cranks. If the engine did crank than the starter is fine and most likely the solenoid is what needs to be replaced. If the starter did not crank then you obviously have a problem with the starter and either put a rebuild kit or a new starter. So did the engine turn over when you jumped the two lugs on the relay ?

Mine was doing the same thing. I took the starter apart and cleaned it, i also analyzed the brushes, i got 15-20 starts out of it, I'm waiting on a rebuild. Dc motors wear out the brushes, so it could just be that. They make a rebuild (replacement brushes) for my 350, but if the brushes are not worn down, it could be something else. Also, you can use jumper cables on the starter itself to see if it is the culprit.

Check this out: I have been working on these and trying to get the word out on the forums. I am now at the point to be able to start doing struts for others. If you haven't kept up with my progress, I have developed adding external reservoirs. It would be an approximate $(contact me for current pricing as some things have gotten cheaper and some have not) cost for both struts which includes adding bungs and all parts, including a lower magnetic drain plug. It would be a complete assembly ready to install with minor tweaking once on the atv (such as line routing) but nothing significant . Send me an email if you have particular things you want done or suggestions based on problems you are encountering with the oem set up. I can help you decide which route to go. Here in the following pic of my manual, is a list of OEM part number struts I have developed this program for. Basically, it will encompass all SRA's with a front strut like the one in the picture, even the ones with a slightly diferrent lower spring perch. If you are interested in an affordable and better front suspension on your utility SRA, please email me at: [email protected] to ensure I get your correspondence, since my inbox on the forum periodically fills up. http://www.kawieriders.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1314451#post1314451