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There may be a wire crossed . If you get spark turning the key on and off but no other time , it seems to me there is a constant voltage going either to the circuit in the CDI box that triggers a spark pulse or directly to the spark coil. Spark coils work by the primary fields in it being charged by a current and then discharging through the secondary to send a high voltage shot to the spark plug.. If you have an old car spark coil you can see what I mean by connecting it to a battery. No spark is produced by it until you disconnect the power to it .. Then you get an instant spark. It is the breaking of the current to the coil that triggers the spark.

Thanks Dave, I agree this thing has got me stumped. I just ordered a cheepy carb off Ebay. We will see how that pans out but for the cost I figured it was worth a shot. I was thinking the same thing that it is acting like its dumping fuel when given throttle. The only problem is the plug is never black its always clean and light gray brownish. Pretty much what you want. I also picked up a spark tester so I can see the spark while its running. So here is my plan for this weekend. I want to open up the inspection plates for the cam timing area and check to ensure my timing marks line up correctly. Open up the flywheel cover and check that those marks correspond with the timing gear on cam. I just cant see it through that little hole. (getting old) I want to meter out the trigger coil, stator and ignition coils for proper ohms to see if they are good. Of course that is if the carb does not change the problem. Yeah I rescued this machine from the scrap yard back in 2010. When I got it the flywheel was loosely on and the covers where missing. I checked it out at that time, got the parts and put it back together and she ran great for several years. Then it started to loose power at top end and it progressively got worse over time until I got tired of fiddling with it and parked in the back of the shop for a couple of years. I just decided to get her going again and see if I can tackle this problem. The reason I am thinking valves is because I had a Suzuki that ran bad once hot and turned out to be valves overly warn. When cold she had decent compression but as it heated up the compression would drop off and it would become hard to start until cool. Anyway this problem is a bit different since it idles great and starts every time. It just does not want to throttle up. When I first got this machine up and running it was great fast and responsive. Then over time it seemed to loose top end power. I decided to figure it out and one thing led to another and she sat for a couple years and here we go again. I may end up tearing the top end off eventually if I cant figure this out. I read somewhere that the ETC can back feed through the reverse light to the limiter. I will need to check that out as well. Thanks for the suggestions I appreciate it

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