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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/17/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    @mikeexplorer hopefully today you got some! @Gunny Great video as usual! Do you ever see any wildlife? That's a lot of snow...some of those snow drifts are insane! Feel like I'm riding when watching, pretty cool. Just need a VR headset and I can ride on a quad with tracks vicariously through you!
  2. 1 point
    It sucks, definitely post some pictures when u get back into it.
  3. 1 point
    Thank you @James Mason. I pretty much for the most part will always find the problem and to be honest I'm a little excited that its giving me a hard time. I think for the most part the quads i find are more straight forward repairs and find myself doing more cosmetic/body work. Don't get me wrong i love all that stuff but a real problem for a change is something good and i think keeps us all sharp learning about new problems, especially for the next guy. So we will see! A ton of very good reply's to this topic so a big shout out to our members that commented on this. Keep em coming. Always grateful!
  4. 1 point
    So just as a general FYI, it might be good to check replacement parts before installing. If possible, check clearances with a micrometer before going through the trouble of assembly. I say this as I bought a new driveshaft yoke for a Kodiak because the ujoint dropped a cap and got the yoke in a bind...blowing the yoke and middle drive gear to shreds. So I replaced the middle drive gear and bought a new yoke and ujoint kit from Caltric. Caltric is usually pretty solid replacement parts. The new yoke however was a good 4mm too narrow for inside lock ujoint caps. Disappointing since it came as a kit from Caltric. Ended up taking an angle grinder to the new yoke and thinning material off to get it to the needed 41.25mm opening size. Sucks having to disassemble everything again and start over but my fault for trusting replacement parts. Nearly 40 years of turning wrenches and I made a rookie mistake.
  5. 1 point
    Hey, Hey, Hey ... I'm lov'in winter ...... ... Hope you enjoy the video !! ...
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Been a mechanic for 55 years. Never knew there was a metric zerk!😲
  8. 1 point
    What amazed me is that there wasn't any chunks. However the belt did get to the point that it would just smoke and the four wheeler would barely move on level ground. In fact i had to toss the old one on the ground a few feet away to make sure i didn't put it back on. i was in shock that the old one was worn out but it must have been as the new one made a huge difference. my best guess is that it had stretched quite a bit. thanks for the help everyone.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Give em hell bro [emoji1598] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Give em hell bro [emoji1598] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point
    The next switch that goes bad hold it and to selectively take it apart and inspect the contact board to see if its burnt inside. There could be a fault like @Ajmboy said maybe a back feed of 12v from someplace. Are there any aftermarket parts like a winch or lights on the bike ?
  12. 1 point
    Oh that happened to me on my 800. I thought I blew a belt, but the rear drive shaft had blown up and dropped out of the atv lol. Heres a pic. Cost 80 for a new shaft works good now. I had noticed that the old drive shaft appeared to be to short as it only reached half way up the rear splines
  13. 1 point
    Happens to the best of us brother. Great topic post though.
  14. 1 point
    Sounds like a plan! I like to use a wore wheel on the drill. Makes my life easier getting down to a good metal surface. They are resilient machines. Probably will never get ur money back but the hell with it. Learning experience and self pride for the resurrection of an old machine!
  15. 1 point
    Ya, seat was completely missing, airbox too. I took it for a ride today in the snow just to play around a bit. It's a tank for sure. I feel like bringing this thing back was the right thing to do, even though it'll probably not make me any money if I sell it. I ordered headlights and shift knobs today (they were also missing). I need to start ripping into the front end next to address the heavy rust around the lower control arm mounts.
  16. 1 point
    Nice video, winter here has been terrible. Ski slopes are not that good right now. The snow in the trees is from snowmaking, They only got a few hours in before it warmed up.
  17. 1 point
    If you're using a click n go 2 plow system how do you like them? Just installed one on a 500 King Quad along with a set of Commander XTR tracks and I'm lovin it
  18. 1 point
    Parallel twins don't fire at the same time. While one piston is on the way up to fire the other is on the way down. They are designed like this so there is a constant velocity power band and produce a lot more torque. Tandem twins have the pistons firing at the same time as the pistons are at the same location on the crank shaft. These are a pain in the ass to dial in since the air/fuel delivery to the cylinders has to be very close because they both fire together.
  19. 1 point
    For my 2018 570 (may be it's the same ), i have to press and hold "Mode" button to see "Diagcode" on the display.
  20. 1 point
    Is it a 220, or a 300? Both are pretty much the same diagrams but I would like to be sure which one is for your bike because of the red wire for the lights. First things first do you have your dash lights and neutral lights working? If so great then let’s move on to the solenoid. On that solenoid there are three wires; white (comes from ignition key switch), Black (comes from the start circuit relay) that’s the relay that allows the bike to only start when it’s in neutral, and then the black/yellow stripe (general ground) Depending on what model the bike is the small red wire comes from the battery or from the switch on the handle bar. Either way it’s for the rear lights. Front lights are red with a yellow stripe if I remember correctly. If you have a red wire near the battery then It goes to the positive terminal and should have an in-line fuse. I would have a tester or test light ready and turn the key on, put a tester on the white wire at the solenoid and see if it’s 12v+ If not then you have to go to the back of the ignition switch. The black/yellow stripe runs through the harness and is the general ground for everything on the bike including lights. Keep in mind that the start solenoid has a fuse on it also so double check that’s good before you do this and have an extra fuse or two. I’m heading upstate for the day but start there I will try to get back to you with a diagram once I know what size the bike is.
  21. 1 point
    We've got a section in our gallery just for dirt bikes, so feel free to post your photos! https://www.quadcrazy.com/gallery/category/60-dirt-bike-photos/ Some of our member contributions:
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