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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/04/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    On mine I had to loosen up the foot pedal adjustment, I guess it needed to move more. I adjusted my rear brakes and that's what caused the problem, after loosening them up it worked again, Also had to be in 1st in order to go into reverse. Seemed to be a problem an each Yamaha I have owned. Just got rid of one and same issues.
  2. 2 points
    Maxxis Bighorns are an all around good tire i have them on a 2007 can am outlander 650 maxx xt and they work great in most of the terrains we use the quad in mud, loose dirt, loose gravel, packed trails, in snowbanks.
  3. 2 points
    That's the fuel petcock. I just changed mine on my yamaha grizzly last week because it was leaking also. You can get it on amazon for $9
  4. 2 points
    Yes that valve is easily replaced. Your local quad dealer may have one in stock or a quick search online should give you several sources and prices .
  5. 1 point
    I recently read an article about restoring or at least improving the looks of faded and discolored plastic body parts. In the article it suggested using a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and paint thinner. You mix it up and apply it with a brush or rag to rub it in and remove the oxidation. I curious to find out if anyone has had experience with doing this and what was their short/long term results of doing so. I would hate to try it and find out that a few weeks/months down the road my plastic body parts self destruct.
  6. 1 point
    Thanks, thats good to know. I decided to try and test the boiled linseed and paint thinner 50::50 mix on a small test area and was impressed with the results. It didn't leave it looking new but it did make it look a lot better. The best part was that is very easy to apply and with little effort. I have used armor all in the past but after a few hours the chalky white oxidation starts to show through again. The test area with the 50::50 mix was applied about 4 weeks ago and it still looks much better than before. I just have not done all of the pannels because I was concerned about the long term effect degrading the plastic. So far I have to give it a thumbs up.
  7. 1 point
    I can honestly say I've tried it all! Linseed oil, water sanding with 2000 grit paper and trying to buff it out, heating with a heat gun (worked the best) but nothing will bring them back! I use armor all to give them a decent look but nothing is going to ever bring them back to the way they were.
  8. 1 point
    Wow great point @Ajmboy i remember this topic! Could very well be just that ! I think it was the brake cable adjustment or the linkage. One or the other, we had another member that made adjustments and was no longer to get in reverse and he put it back where it was and it was fine. Maybe @Arizona?
  9. 1 point
    Where are you looking? Lower front left frame rail ? 99% of Yamahas are stamped into the frame in the location i mentioned. Take a look its there.
  10. 1 point
    Ultimately you need to decide what you will be doing with your machine. I have a Deere that hauls hay and feed and dirt and ect. I like the one I have because it has a dump bed and enclosed cab. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point
    I've been reading threads here for a while now and figured it was about time I signed up and gave back a bit. My kids are gone from home now so I sold their Honda's off last fall I still have a few Polaris machines on the place to get around on. I use my quads for chore horses around the ranch so they get used but not abused if I can help it...which of course I can't...all the time... Well, thanks for havin me folks, Ima hava look around
  12. 1 point
    Sounds great but yes def a whinny noise. Im thinking clutch, check all fluids and take it for a good run. Nice work, you can pick up a new seat cover for 30 bucks or make your own for maybe 10 bucks.
  13. 1 point
    I picked up a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 2X4 a week or so back in non running condition, apparently they said it needed a new carburetor or a battery, I cleaned the carburetor thoroughly and got it running on idle and without choke now and it shifts into all the gears even into reverse. Aside from making me bounce a little when trying to start out with a bit of throttle the shock suffice to say needs work. Anyways I made a video of it running and would like your opinions on it, as to how it sounds while running. It seems like it has a little whine I'm not sure why that is maybe someone can tell me what it is. Anyways here is the video.
  14. 1 point
    Bid was $3750. $4548 with all the fees. Hoping to see low mileage when I get the power going. According to the title, it was originally titled 8/2018. There is about $800 worth of accessories on it too. Came with no key so I got a $10 chinese replacement just to get working on it. Auction link: www.copart.com/lot/49761799 I wanna pull the clutch cover off too and see how bad it is in there. I'm assuming its a belt drive. I charged the battery and its been holding at 12.2v for 2 days(not connected) so Ill see how that goes later. Would like to get a sealed AGM battery if they're available. A buddy of mine said to drain everything from the engine, pour a little oil in the spark plug hole and manually turn the crank to lube the cylinder or the walls may get scratched up and lead to major blow-by. I heard it is ok to use 5W-40 oil in it so I will run a few oil changes through it with that before switching to the pricy polaris PS-4 oil. My buddy recommended like a half dozen oil changes to get everything out. Unfortunately its at my brother's house about an hour away cause I don't have room for it here. But it is in a heated garage which helps alot being in the Poconos in December.
  15. 1 point
    Excellent advice by @Ajmboy ! I would pull all the plugs apart, fuses out and spray all electric plugs and the fuse box with dialectral grease. Label everything so you don't get confused as well as a few pics incase.
  16. 1 point
    I'm using a quadboss atv cover currently and its pretty good. But if it tears or get another one, I've been looking at this one on Amazon for $27 and has pretty good reviews.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks for the feedback everyone. I went with the big horn 2’s. I got yamaha Viking take off for a great price.
  18. 1 point
    Most likely it is the same switch located in the same place as in earlier models. There are Big Bear 400 manuals in the download section .. Check them out for the placement of your switch .. It may be something as simple as a bad ground .
  19. 1 point
    I would definitely go with and all terrain tire. I use them on my hunting quad because i go through so many different types of ground including flat ground. As @06kfx440 said a mud tire on smooth ground makes for a bumpy ride. Ebay has a ton of all terrain tires.
  20. 1 point
    Both good tires. It really depends on your riding style, what you will be going through, and what you expect out of the feel of the tire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    Thats some lean. I feel like something you did during the lift was not done correctly or a set of bushings on the top swing arm are crushed. My approach would be to pull the front wheels off and take measurements from the bolt holes that hold the swing arms in place to the edge of the hub and compare the numbers. If your sure this was not a problem before the lift and nothings bent then its a matter of back tracking and making sure you did not mix up the lift brackets. There are two for the front and one for the back on the single suspension rear swing arm type atvs. Is it possible that you mixed anything up ? lastly some frames have two holes for the upper shock mount on the front shocks. Are they both in the same spots ?
  22. 1 point
    All you need to do is take the light green wire coming out of the engine on the left side and unplug it. Put a jumper from the frame (ground) to the light green wire on the harness side. Make sure the bike is in neutral and turn the key on. I bet the bike dash lights will come on and crank.
  23. 1 point
    That is your start circuit relay. Should have two black wires, one brown and one light green. The brown should have 12v power with the key on. The light green wire is ground and comes from the lower left side of the motor where the shifter is. Light green and red wires go into the engine. They go to your neutral safety switch. The lever inside when in neutral grounds the light green wire so the relay now gets positive from the brown and negative (ground) from the neutral safety switch. Once the relay has power it connects the two black wires on the relay allowing the start button to work.
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