Mech

Are you absolutely sure the spark plug's good.. Tried it in another bike, put a good bike's plug in there, got a new plug ? Only full throttle, or somewhere between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle(or a bit more) doing it ?

Cheers for that. Well done.

Good man...

I couldn't find any diagrams of three post solenoids in any of my yank bike manuals.. Was the old solenoid three post ? and were they all being used ? How many big wires have you got ? How many small ones ?

Bummer... And here I am needing a wench... My problems aside though... I don't think you would have blown your ECU by jumping the solenoid. Is that sorted now though ? Could you post a picture of what wires you have in where the solenoid fits ? A description of which one goes where if you can trace them would be handy too, but I'll have a look in some manuals and see what they usually have.

I'm not familiar with that but it's pretty common for the steering column to go through a couple of half round clamps that hold it to the frame and that it turns in. Then down the bottom of the shaft there's often a plate of some sort held on with a nut. I'd check the two half round clamps are tight and have their rubber bushes in them, and that the plate at the bottom's still done up tight. You might have to pull the bodywork off to get a good look at the upper clamp, but the bottom ones are normally pretty easy to see. Get a manual and have a look, or look at the parts online.

Yeah it sounds like it pushes the contact along to low, then along to high, but then there's some lost movement such that it doesn't pull it back down to low, you have to go beyond that point to move the sliding contact .. The switch will have little springs and ball bearings to make it "clicky", don't drop them..

Check the valve clearances. The inlet. It might be slightly too tight. Try to check the exhaust isn't blocked. Maybe disconnect it at the head. I'm presuming it did use to go and got parked up in a running state, and hasn't been rebuilt

If the handlebar switch turns the lights on and switches the beam, I'd suspect the switch. If there's a separate switch to turn them on, I'd suspect either a bad connection somewhere or a relay if there is one. I'm not familiar with the system but if I have a manual I'll try and have a look later.

Yup that's a mirror mount. I don't know the oil or an alternative but look into it well. There are a lot of specialist tractor oils now, for wet brakes for instance, and they have anti-squawk and anti-grab, and anti-slip, and combinations of those. The rear diff might very likely be a limited slip diff and need a light but limited-slip oil or something. If you look up Mobil they should have the specs and a description.

I think the thermostats behind a side cover, but it's definitely worth doing. Anti freeze has a sort of sticky property to it, and when it gets old it gets worse, then if it dries out, like twenty-four hours of the cooling being drained, it can make the thermostat seize.. Thermostats have a limited life anyway.. They are sort of a wearing/deteriorating part. Hypoid is the shape of the gears, cut on a spiral, and they subject the oil to a lot of shearing stress..All gear oils are hypoid. And yeah, multigrades are all really the second figure, so 90. In the manuals it says that in low temperatures you can use 80 grade too. Yeah I'd be surprised to hear the fan come on. A good test for the cooling system is to leave it idling till the fan comes on, then time how long it's on for, then how long it's off for before it comes back on again. It might come on once a minute for twenty seconds, or once every four minutes for a minute.. for instance. The thing to look for is that it's not on for more than half the time, preferably one third of the time. Good cooling systems come on about a third of the time. Crook cooling systems come on for near full time..

I've read a bit about those things before. The tilt switch has a variable voltage, but I don't think it changes the voltage o the pump. It's either on or off as far as I know. It sounds like you are on to it. One slightly counter-intuative thing to watch for is that a bad connection, which in theory would lower the current, can blow fuses..

Could the injector wires be crossed ? Or ignition ? Even though the valve timing is right, it may not be phased with either ignition or injectors.. Seen it on cars.

Actually.. A quicker test might be to disconnect the pump, and put jumpers to it and to earth and see if it goes at all.. 8 volts should make it make some sound.. Perhaps it's seized.

Well it's probably a bad connection somewhere.. Do you know how to search for a voltage drop.. You put your voltage gauge across connections and/or wires, and look for a voltage being shown where there shouldn't be any because the power's meant to be flowing freely through the wire or connector. So if you put your gauge from the battery positive to the pump, there should be no voltage shown if all the wires and connectors are good. If there is a voltage shown then you have a bad connection somewhere and so some of the power's going through the gauge. You measure across one length of wire, or across one connector or relay at a time till you find the bad connection. All that said, I think you will find if you check the wiring diagram, that the power possibly comes from the computer, so you need to check from where it comes out of there, to the pump. It's also possible the power comes from a fuse or relay to the pump, then gets earthed by the computer.. You need the wiring diagram and check for voltage drop all along the power's flow path till you find the place the voltage is dropping. It's a good idea if the power is coming out of the computer, to check it is at full voltage there before you start looking for the drop of voltage along the wires etc. Understand the basic concept of voltage drop, and then go looking for where that is happening..

That oil will be ok for the diff. The different colour antifreeze is different chemicals and you are meant to use the right type for your engine. Fill it with plain water, run it, and drain it a couple of times and you will get all the old out. I\d also change the thermostat.. those have a limited life and can cook your motor.

Nice looking place Mell.. I've got a bit of forest too. I've had those motors apart, right apart, but the last total strip was about.. er.. twenty-five years ago now. They are pretty good to work on and a lot of the special tools and set-up procedures can be got around with a bit of ingenuity. I use linux and a linux pdf reader, but I thought all pdf readers had a find/search facility. Good genuine manuals mostly have a clickable index that takes you to the subject. I don't find the haines and clymer manuals very good, but they do have lots of hints about how to do things for non-professionals. You look like you'd manage with a genuine one.. It's always best to read right through the section you are going to work on, and then you can probably make a few notes and leave the manual on the computer. Have a look at my topic called "Carby Adjustments". That tool is the third design I've made and it's the winner. It's real hard to get bikes running right, or to diagnose problems, if you can't adjust the carby mixture. Adjusting the mixture, and seeing how it responds, is a useful aid to diagnosis. If things are right, a quarter turn is a lot. And yeah, rats are a problem with wiring, they love it.

yeah .. keep posting.. I'm not sure if the admin approve of me saying it, but there are free manuals on "manualslib'"..

You should get a manual Mellephants. Some seemingly trivial things, such as cable and hose routing, are really quite crucial. There'll be a manual to download here probably

Not me, but they are probably six or eight mill. Six mill is just about a 1/4 inch, and eight is near 5/16 of an inch. The heads on those are ten and twelve mill respectively. If you pull a bolt from someplace and check it against the mount holes, then measure the depth to the top of the threads in the frame, and add about ten mlls for screwing into the threads.. you will get bolts to suit from an engineering store no trouble.

Thought I'd share this because I see a lot of people wondering how to adjust their idle mixture. On some bikes it's really hard to get at the idle mixture screw and near impossible once the engine's hot. I'm a mechanic and need to adjust mixtures accurately and so I made this tool to do it. It's a piece of wood about 12mm square, with a screwdriver made out of a small bolt, and the drive belt, gear and tensioner out of an old printer. It cost nothing and only took about a half hour to make once I'd decided how to do it. Anyone that works on a suzuki quad needs one. The standard setting as recommended in the manual is only a starting point, and they always run nicer with a proper adjustment. The gear at the screwdriver end is pressed on there and is tight enough to turn mixture screws if they are not seized. The adjustment should be done warm, and it's supposed to be the highest revs you can get with the least throttle opening, then you wind the mixture screw in until the revs just start to drop. That settings called "best lean", and it's what they run best at when hot. Sometimes though if the bikes doing a lot of stop starting I leave them a fraction richer than that.

And yeah, if the cable looks ok on the outside(no worn off outer)wash it with water and work it to get dirt out if it doesn't look like it's been oiled. If it has been oiled then wash it in petrol or kero.

A genuine workshop manual should have wiring, cable and hose routing diagrams. There's probably a manual in downloads on this site, or look up "manualslib".

For a long time now a lot of cables have been lined with nylon or teflon or something and it's advised not to lube them... The manual should say. I'd check the routing of the cable, and that the pedal(if it has one) is operating correctly, and that the motor or body doesn't move under load/oeration and pull the cable.

That cable's probably lined with nylon and not meant to be lubed.. Some genuine suzuki cables are surprisingly cheap..