calypsoaz

Well after taking the stock airbox off and running a straight UNI filter, i would hope that the quad is getting to much air, thats why I stepped up the main jet from a 145 to a 147.5. The mid throttle pin settings and the main jet settings are the only thing Im having problems with. I was hoping someone might know the settings for both of these on ANY YFM350 motor. Whether it be a Raptor or a Warrior. If someone has run into this and figured out the solution, please let me know.

Okay so I put a video up on youtube for audio and visual refferences. I seem to be having some issues with the fuel delivery now. I took my stock airbox off and i am running straight UNI Filters and a 147.5 main jet and the e-clip on my mid throttle pin is all the way down on the 5 notch, making the needle as high as it possibly can go. It seems that no matter what I do the thing runs rough in low to mid throttle, but wide open and idle it runs fine. refer to video. I have a 145 main jet a 150 main jet and a 152.5 main jet. I am at a 1130 feet elevation, no airbox, in the video my quad is currently set up with a 147.5 jet, and e clip all the way down on the pin making it the highest it can go. it sounds VERY throaty and feels like it misses, but I think it might be something else. Thats about the best I can describe it in words, the rest will have to be done by listening to it. Here is the link [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRsan-PPgGE]YouTube - Yamaha Warrior Problems[/ame] If you have any suggestions, or know what settings I should be running on my carburetor let me know, I want to take it out riding, now that it is running, and now that the tempurature is below 100 degrees consistently! Before I was having issues with the stator and the clutch (got those fixed). Now its the fuel mixture/delivery.

On another note, you need three things to make an engine run, fuel, spark, compression. From what I heard from a Yamaha parts guy, most yamahas that dont start, its 9/10 times a stator problem. Coils hardly go bad, you really have to cook a coil in order for it to go bad. Its not your coil, CDIs go bad, but not often. The one thing that does go bad before most other parts, is your stator. I own a 2003 Yamaha Warrior. I had starting issues where I wasnt getting any spark at all! Changed everything but the cdi and stator, nothing helped. Once I changed the stator, it fired right up on the first compressions stroke. If your getting an orange spark, it would leave me to believe your stator was going out. Giving a weak spark, with a low compressions is obvious signs of wear and tear and reason the motor wont start. If you have thoroughly cleaned your carburetor and blown air through all your jets and passage ways and have assembled it all back together, and you are confident you are getting the correct amount of fuel into the combustion chamber, then its a electrical more importantly a stator problem, or a compression issue. But you are still getting like you said 100psi in the compression test, it should be sufficient to sustain a motor idle. I looked all through my manual and cannot find a specification on compression. I bought a Ricky Stator for my YFM350XR, and it was the best $150 I spent. Plus $10 for the gasket. RickyStator.com

I have a haynes banshee/warrior repair manual, let me know what sections you need, i will scan and deliver!

Thank you again dirtdemon, you seem like you know your stuff. When I get the time and money to deal with my carburetor again, i will swap jets and tweak my carb. I just hate taking it on and off and on and off, its a pain in the a$$!! I could just take it over to my father in laws. He is the service manager at a station, and they used to be a dealer of Artic Cat and serviced them as needed through his shop, and also knows a lot about other quads. I will see if I can get him to tweak my quad with me. So you said the next 5 sizes? I can tell you what the stock sizes are, because thats whats in it. Stock jets are as followed Main Jet: 145 Main Air Jet: 0.6 Jet Needle: 5J18-3 Pilot: 42.5 Pilot Air Jet 1: 1.0 Pilot Air Jet 2: 0.7 Tell me what I need of those jets, and what sizes, I would be more than willing to go to my Yamaha Dealer and buy them.

it hasn't smoked since i first started it, so that's a good thing, someone on yfm350.com forums had mentioned something about that needle clip and moving it one clip down, tuning it, if it still doesn't run right, move it down to the last notch, but said he didn't have to re-jet it.

Thank you DirtDemon! One other question, my Warrior smokes white when you start it, but when it gets warms it stops smoking, should I be concerned? Are my piston rings going out/getting worn?

Ok this is a new thread, but I posted an old thread a few months back, i will link it, and the ones that recognize the thread, that is me. UPDATE: Okay so I got a new carb (well used carb that I rebuilt) and got a new pilot screw, turned it two turns out, got a new stator, it starts up IMMEDIATELY!! I installed an Oil Cooler Mod with the Hayden 401 Transmission cooler, and couple of Fragola 90 degree -6an swivel fittings, yadda yadda so on, so forth. I put 3.3 Quarts of Valvoline Racing 20w50 oil in it. The clutch seemed to be slipping (it was sitting for 8 months (or more) doing nothing). Once it got warm and the clutch got wet (hehe sounds dirty) it seemed to shift fine, so everything is good in that department. Here is my question... I took the Stock Airbox off of it. I built an aluminum housing that holds my electronics and battery (some cutting of the plastics was done) and I'm running straight UNI Carb Filter and crankcase breather. It seems to be running lean at the current moment, do I need to re-jet the quad? Has anyone removed their stock airbox and run straight filter? If so what jet kit did you use? OR did you just adjust the pilot screw out (or in) to compensate for the lean fuel mixture? One other thing, my Haynes Warrior manual is right next to me, I'm just to lazy to hunt down the illusive instructions as to the correct way to turn the pilot screw in order to make it more rich/lean, does anyone know which is which? Click Here to get to my old post

TOLD YOU!!! Now I have to replace mine! ARGHH Anyone have a used RUNNING stator 2002-2004? If so I will pay 60$ Plus S&H

Did you try a starter relay/solenoid? If you have electric everywhere else and its not starting, its gotta be a bad starter or a bad relay, I'm assuming. If you have no electric to the headlights brake lights so on, I'd start from the battery then looking at fuses and working your way to the starter. There is a glitch/short somewhere that needs to be fixed/replaced. Hope this helps

Most likely it is your stator. I got my warrior about 9-10 months ago and i only got to ride it maybe 3-4 hours and the stator stopped working, and the pilot screw being froze it was running lean and overheating. so it would run for about 20-30 minutes then shut down. so im still waiting on testing the nerf bars meant for a yfz450, and my custom built wheelie bar with skateboard wheels. Oh and the dealer will charge you an arm and a leg for something that can be figured out with just process of elimination. Ive heard they charge near $400 just for electronics testing, when you can buy all the electronics for around the same price, with yamaha you will spend $400 for the testing then another 400-600 for OEM parts. Its retarded, you do get to narrow down what part it is thats broke, but why not just replace them all with racing quality parts to begin with?

Hey I am having the same issue with my warrior. I have a 2003, I know there are some differences in electronics and other minor things, the stators are different, but let me say this, If you are not getting spark to the plug, even by pulling the plug out and touching it against the exhaust near the cylinder. The first thing you replace is the cheapest thing, spark plug, if that doesnt fix it, replace the ignition coil, if that doesnt work its a toss up between the stator and the voltage regulator. I talked to some yamaha guys at Champion Yamaha here in Mesa, AZ, and they said when warriors have electrical problems 9 out of 10 times its the stator. So far on mine I have replaced the spark plug, the ignition coil, the voltage regulator and will be replacing the stator some time soon, I got caught up buying a used carburetor because mine had a frozen pilot screw. Took a hammer to my old carb. so i rebuilt the new/used one i got from craigslist. I haven't touched my cdi yet. Hoping its good, if its not im getting a no-rev limiter. I just bought a stator off of ebay, the guy said it was a 2002 warrior stator, when i got it, the connectors were different so i talked to the guy he told me to send it back, and i'd get a full refund. come to find out its for a 1996-2001 warrior. He said it was pulled from a running quad, I can talk to him again and see if he wants to sell it to you for the same amount i bought it for which was $69 shipped. in my experience you don't want to buy used oem or cheap electronics like RMstator canada crap, sorry Canadians. Ricky Stator ive heard is very good, also the yamaha guys said buy moose racing stators, they are ricky stators but $60-75 cheaper. But I'm gonna take a wild guess and say that your stator is bad. wouldn't hurt to check your other parts like your spark, ignition coil, and voltage regulator. I also have a Haynes book for 1987 through 2003 Yamaha Warrior. Let me know what pages you would like to see, and what specs you need, and I will scan them and email them to you.

I prefer the memorization method, I have a very photo graphical memory. It comes in handy for times like these! Sorry that probably doesn't help. Check out stadiumyamaha.com they (and many other websites) have online EPC's or Electronic Parts Catalogs' that break down each category and bolts and stuff like that. Where as they don't have specific bolt sizes, they do have diagrams of what goes where. I'm sure you will have some luck with that.

I've had an issue with my 2003 Yamaha Warrior after i rolled it, it would start up and idle all day no problems, but when you give it gas it sounds like it wants to die. The parking brake switch had become shorted out. Had to replace it. But it does sound like an accelerator plunger (if its equiped like my Mikuni 36mm) or jets. Blow air through all of your jets, if you don't have compressed air, I used brake cleaner on everything in my carburetor and watched for it to squirt out the other side. I forgot to mention, I soaked my carb in carb dip/chem dip, for at least 2 hours after taking all rubber grommets, o-rings, and plastic off. I let the throttle linkage slide, because its a pain to put it all back together, with the winding of the springs and all that.

Well like you suggested I pulled my ignition coil off, and checked both Primary Resistance and Secondary resistance, and they both showed an infinite resistance. I tried all functions within the Ohm range. 200 2k 20k 200k 2m 20m and 200m, and they all show a solid "1" on my multimeter. Also on my multimeter on the 200 ohm range it beeps when you make 0 ohms or No resistance. Like either touching both meter probes to each other, or a piece of metal like a soda can. It was not making the beep sound when I tested the Primary, but I still got a Solid 1 on my multimeter. When I tested secondary resistance, I got a beep at 200ohms and a solid 1 on all ohm settings. What does this mean? I've tested every possible combination, and I get a Solid 1 and a beep on some of the possibilities, but not all. I'm so confused. I went ahead and ordered a new Ignition Coil, I get the feeling like this one is shot. Either its getting infinite resistance or ZERO resistance. and the specs call for on 2002 and later in my haynes book... Primary Resistance: 0.018 to 0.28 Ohms; Secondary Resistance: 6.32 to 9.48 K-ohms, I can tell you all, thats not what I'm getting, unless I don't have a multimeter in range to test these ohm levels out. But my multimeter doesn't even flicker. Can someone tell me if i'm in the right direction ordering a new Ignition Coil, or what? Much thanks for your time and help. I've only been able to ride my quad a handful of times after getting it, and I really want to take it out soon!!!

My warrior is not water cooled. All of the YFM350X's are not water cooled. You're probably thinking of a Banshee which is a watercooled 2 stroke 350.

I just looked at my Haynes book and it says 1 and a quarter out. So I will reset that tomorrow, and recharge my battery, and try to start it again. I have a feeling though that it won't start. I have a question. Is there any adjustment in the Pulsar Coil Pickup (Pickup Coil)?

Update: That Banshee Warrior Haynes catalog gives separate specifications for both quads. It really is an In-Depth manual. Update: Got a new carb (used from a guy parting out his quad). Got it rebuilt, pilot screw was perfect, had to replace all the throttle linkage, float pin, float, and bowl. But I still don't know if it works, because the quad still wont start. I put a volt meter up to the spark boot, and ground. While trying to start it supplies .25 volts, while not trying to start it supplies .35 volts. I have a feeling its my ignition coil, my voltage regulator, my cdi, or my stator. or any combination of those 4. I have perfect timing, and great compression. I don't have spark. The pilot screw of the carb is all the way in and out 2.5 turns (which I believe is the correct placement of the pilot screw). I am going to replace the Stator, pulsar coil pickup, CDI, Ignition Coil, and voltage regulator. If none of those fix it, could it possibly be my relay fuse? Any additional help would be great. And I will repost when I get my electronics installed and tested. Hopefully this fixes it.

Just an update, I am going to order the Banshee YFM350X Haynes Book for my Warrior 350 for electrical specs and engine stuff. I got a $50 Amazon gift card for christmas that I'm going to use for that. I am going to replace all that stuff mentioned in an earlier post about the RM Stator deal. Don't know when, probably as soon as I get an extra $300 to spend (probably tax return season). I have to take my carburetor in to work so I can mill out my frozen air/fuel mixture screw, put a helicoil in it, then get a rebuild kit for a new pilot screw. I have to order some HTS-2000 Brazing/Soldering stuff for the pot aluminum float arm I snapped off inside the bowl area of my Carburetor trying to disassemble my carburetor to soak it in some Chem-Dip to clean it, and break junk free and nylon brush it down. So as soon as I get the parts, probably mid February I will update again. Well I'm going to go out to my quad and take my carburetor off right now to see if i cant get that pilot screw/'air/fuel' mixture screw off by hell or high water. See ya then, Nathan L. Mesa, AZ

No luck, I found a deal on RMStator.com for the Stator, CDI, Ignition Coil Spark Plugs, Pulsar Coil Pickup, Krypton Light Bulbs, and the Flywheel Cover Gasket for $200 and for another $100 for the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier. I plan on putting some work into my quad, like getting a Stroker Crankshaft +7mm a +1mm stroker piston, an Edelbrock 24.3 rated hp Carb. So I'm going to replace all of that stock crap with higher performance parts. I did test the CDI and two of the wires were testing fine. around 460 ohms. Never tested the Voltage Rectifier, didn't feel like it.

Also is there a way to test the CDI/Stator/Rectifier/Ignition Coil, or is it just, if you buy a new one and it doesn't work your kinda boned type thing?

.

Ok so here's an update. I went out and tore the stator/flywheel cover off my Warrior. Timing is correct. the compression is great, and it gets fuel (probably too much because I can pull the spark plug out and its wet) but it doesn't get spark, it only gets spark when it gets a little warmer (I don't know what gets warmer to cause it to start like that, but it literally takes me a whole battery to get it to start) But being now that its December and its a high of 60 degrees here in AZ. It won't start at all. No matter what I do. I was in at my local Yamaha Power-sports dealer a while back, and the pro said "when its a Yamaha with electrical problems its 9 times out of 10 a stator issue". Which leads me back to the first part of this post. I sanded the points of the stator with 120grit wet/dry sand paper to see if it would help, including the inside of the flywheel where the stator points float nearby, I sanded the discharge point and the strip on the outside of the flywheel that touches the discharge point. (keep in mind it was a light sanding, I didn't get into it, put a lot of pressure or time into it, just enough to freshen the surface of all the points. Still nothing, it just turns over and over with no ignition. I think I need a new stator, my carburetor's air/fuel mixture screw is frozen so I cant tweak that at all. I snapped a float arm off inside the bowl area of the carb. I JB Welded it back on because its pot aluminum and is not TIG friendly. I did some plasma cutting/welding on it over the weekend to put some nerf bars on it, I disconnected the positive side of my battery, can someone tell me if I might have possibly screwed the CDI in the process of welding/plasma cutting. About the carburetor, I plan on spending a little money on my quad, and getting a +7mm crankshaft and a 1mm over piston. Instead of spending $300 on a stock carburetor, I was going to spend a little bit more and get an Edelbrock carb (rated at 24.3hp) for $400-450. Is it worth the investment considering I want to turn my Warrior 350 into a 396ish cc motor? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!

Thank you DirtDemon, this should get me headed in the right direction. If none of that fixes it when I get the money, I will pm you if it doesn't work. Should be like a month or so. Could the magnet on the flywheel be a possibility?