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About MrSchaeferPants

  • Birthday 08/13/1984

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  1. Got the rest of my carb stuff in today. Had the kit for the last week, but waiting for the throttle cable retainer clip thing, and the plastic baffle plate that goes in the carb bowl. Hopefully it wont want to cut off on the steep stuff anymore. All went well, kit came with everything. Tearing it down and reading my manual, there was a lot of things missing. Either way, my vacuum issues should be fixed. My pilot screw is set at 2.5 turns out now instead of the 4.5 it was previously, and runs well. The main needle was set at its most lean setting (kit came with a new one also), book said 3rd from the top, or the middle rung, set it there instead and it made it super rich, so put it back where it was. Main problem still, otherwise everything is just fine- still dies as soon as I push the choke in/off position. No idea why, stumping me and pissing me off If it dies with the choke open, sounds to me like a lean issue. But every things fine, its clean, rebuilt, everything else is perfectly fine. Just have to run with the choke on. Starts up great, off-idle is great, part throttle is great, WOT great...etc. Just finished taking it for a test run, once it cools down Ima check the plug to see what it looks like, but I remember previously it was just fine, tan color. Still need to do an oil change. Just have to get a filter. I do have to put oil in here and there, its leaking around the gearbox area somewhere. Strange thing is, if the engine and gearbox share the same oil, and the dipstick can read it needs oil, but above the oil filter, theres a plug, if I take that out it gushes oil like crazy. Im confused perhaps. The trans is seperate from the 4wd part of the gearbox, using different oil, or is it all one big unit.
  2. Need to get a multimeter and check for voltage. You should be able to check everything in the system (cutoff relay for example) for voltage. Check those fuses, make sure theyre good. Parts dont usually mysteriously crap out. Fuses could depending on the situation.
  3. Just went to go look, I only remembered one connection on the post, but there are two wires that share the same eye bolt connection. The thick wire, goes to to the relay>starter. The thin wire dissapears into the harness, and per manual, to a fuse, then regulator/rectifier. The starter relay itself, which is mounted left of the battery on the frame rail, has the thick wire from the battery, and to the starter motor. And it also has two small wires with a plug, and dissapears into a harness. My diagram showing ones ground, and one to the cutoff relay. Hopefully its something simple, loose connection, and not a bad component. If you can jump the connection with a screwdriver I guess that rules out the starter relay and thats good. Only thing left in the system is the cutoff relay, ignition switch, and associated connections, and of course like I said the easy stuff, gearbox in neutral, battery charged. My on/off switch on the left handlebar is broken, and stuck in the on position, and I have some wires that are disconnected here and there, someone previously did some monkeying around.
  4. First, hello and welcome! I'm new to ATVs, and this forum, and also recently got an 89 Big Bear 350. Its been fun learning about them and tinkering with it. The starting system is pretty easy, ignition cylinder(on/off), Starting circuit cut off relay, starter relay, starter motor, and battery. If all you did was remove the winch, perhaps you didnt see another wire, the power wire to the Batt, is perhaps not hooked back up? Perhaps they spliced the winch power wire into the main wire, and in removing that, you no longer have power. No idea w/o seeing it. Lets get the easy stuff out of the way. Are you in neutral, is your battery nice and charged, and how about your connection plug wire on the ignition cylinder to the rest of the harness. Thats a current issue with mine, I installed a new ignition cylinder, its a cheap Chinese piece of crap, and the 4 prong plug has to be wiggled around occasionally, and I hear the relay click and see the green light. Id suggest working your way from the battery forward. Find the main power wire off the batt, and trace it from component to component. Battery>Starter Relay>Starting Circuit Cutoff Relay>Ignition Switch in that order. If youre not getting the green light on, check connections. My wiring diagram in my Clymer manual shows a 2nd wire from the + batt post to the regulator/rectifier, but Im not sure how its represented, I think I have one wire on the + post, and on the cutt-off relay it where the 2nd connection is.
  5. Got my new ignition cylinder in the mail yesterday, so no more turning it on/off with a screwdriver or random key that falls out while riding. Got a tire gauge that reads low enough, someone had them things at 20psi :shock2: Hell says on the tire not to exceed 15psi to seat the bead, 5psi running. So I lowered them all to 10psi and drove around for a bit, then down to 5psi. What a huge amazing difference it made in ride comfort Not to mention Im sure the traction is way better, Ill find out. Still waiting for more parts to come in. Forgot to get an oil filter in my last order of parts, so maybe Ill go down to the local dealer and find one. Who knows the last time it was changed, and I wanna put some compressed air through the oil cooler to make sure its still flowing. Might take off the front drums and see if I can get it working, not having any kind of brakes really kinda sucks on long hills and steep areas, and always having to look for a place to stop on a trail so I can get off w/o it rolling.
  6. Yeah thats what Ive read. When I find a good deal on a entire front brake assembly Ill give it a try. Currently my front brakes do nothing, so some steep hills are kind of a hairy situation. My only real complaint is being a solid rear, when I traverse a hill horizontally one of the rear wheels lift off the ground, and I pucker up a bit hoping it wont tip over. But today I went everywhere my neighbors newer fully independent quad went so The day I brought it home The exhaust, towards the right you can see where it came undone, I just welded it closed. The baffle was just rattling around inside, so I pulled it to where I believed to go, and welded it in place, and closed around it. I the wife noticed a big change, and the first thing my neighbor said after my test drive was asked if I bought a new muffler :smilielol5c: Heres after the welding. Didnt grind and clean the welds cause... I dont care Functional, not pretty. Believe it or not its closed/sealed. The case is welded to the baffles collar. So it just looks like theres a 1/8" gap. You can see to the right where the frame is black with carbon. All welded closed now. My right leg/foot is much cooler now as well. Its a temporary fix. The baffles inside are worn and broken and partially missing. One day itll see a new one. Also replaced a valve stem/core in a tire. Thought it looked low, so I stepped on it and sure enough it was empty. I guess the tires are such a thick ply it rides w/o air in it. As soon as I looked at the valve stem I knew, filled full of silicone, as well as the outside threads. I guess someone filled a cap full of silicone and screwed it on to stop a leak. I was like really? $1.99 pack of 4 valve cores and you could of fixed the problem. So I had to remove the core, rip out all the silicone and replace it. Simple as that. Ridiculous. I guess theyre good tires? My neighbor said so anyway, Carslile Tracks Max. I know nothing about ATVs And as it sits now. Ripped all that junk off the front. All together probably took 20-30lbs off the thing. Guess Im all caught up now.
  7. Im used to build threads coming from the 4x4 truck world. Im sure not as many here have older quads, but its my first, it is what it is. Im going to rock this thing I like modifying, making the things the best they can be so Ill try to do that with my quad. I know theres only so much I can do, but my main focus is reliability. I dont care so much about power or speed. My trails around here are crawling trails anyway, so Im in 1st-3rd most of the time. So I have an 89 Big Bear, full time 4x4, auto clutch, IFS, solid rear axle, drive-shaft, "disc" rear, drum front. Thats all I know for now, still learning, only had it two weeks or so. Ive bought a stock used air box since mine was broken and wasnt sealing anything, no filter. Got a new filter assembly, tore apart and rebuilt the carb. Oh ya got it for $900, has a winch too. About $100 into it currently. Carb rebuid kit is on the way, few more misc parts for the carb. Its missing the little clip/housing for the throttle cable, and the baffle that goes in the float bowl. Also ordered a new ignition cylinder, I currently turn it on/off with a random key, screw driver, etc. Also the on/off switch on the left handle bar is stuck and doesnt work. Read a later model big bears front disc setup will bolt on, or mostly bolt on. Mud and dirt dont mix with drum brakes, so Ill look further into that. It would also need a new master cylinder. Took the muffler off, it was leaking all over. The baffle was rattling around inside the body of the muffler. So I welded it all up. One day Ill change it. Ive only seen two other "after market" muffler systems thatll hopefully work. Theyre supposed to fit later model big bears. Ill get to that one day. Ill post pics and edit this later. Its dinner time
  8. Im new to ATVs. Rode buddies before but thats it. My first is an 89 Yamaha Big Bear 350. A full time 4x4 utility with an auto clutch. I guess it depends on your riding. I love having a utility around the house. I do want more of a sports to jump over stuff when the mood arises, selectable 2/4wd would be nice. My neighbor has a newer suzuki 4x4. He rides butt on the seat on rocky terrain I need to squat for because I have a solid rear. For a first quad I dont need more than a 350. I get over anything. 5up speeds, I top out a lot slower being full time 4x4, but I dont care about top speed but rarely when Im going down a road a bit to get to another trail. Its an old quad, which suits my style, cheap, easy to work on. Unfortunately not a huge aftermarket for parts. I can still get OEM replacement parts though. Kinda pricey. Might be biased since Im a mechanic, but the best first ATV is an older model with a good aftermarket and upgradable parts that fit from a newer model. (like switching to front disc brakes)
  9. Added two trails last night! For any Arkansas people. Continuing my search for a really really good droid gps app that does exactly what I want it to as far as tracking routes. Plan on riding the trails, recording them as a map and uploading it to my trails so you can see where and what it looks like.
  10. My carb kit was $25. Bought it from some atv company that sells on ebay. Yamaha dealer and places like partspitstop doesnt offer a kit (as far as i know), only each piece individually. Im still learning and finding vendors. If your carb is like mine there should be two screws located at the base/underneath, the thumb screw on the bottom (one you can turn by hand) is the idle rpms. The one you need a screw driver for controls your pilot jet, or your idle air/fuel mixture. Now depending on carb, its in two locations, either before the throttle plate, or after. If its before the throttle plate, its controlling air, if its after the throttle plate (engine side) youre controlling fuel. If the screw is closer to the engine side of the carb or past the throttle plate, screw it in all the way in until you feel it bottom out (gently) and then back out 2.5 rotations, and go from there. IN leans the mixture, out enriches it. But until your vacuum leaks are under control, it wont matter, for example mine is about 4.5 turns out right now, and I did that so when I go from idle to part throttle, it doesnt want to kill the engine anymore due to my vacuum leaks. Once those are fixed I should be able to go back to around 2.5 My boot is leaking at the carb, theres an O-ring there, not sure on the engine side. From what Ive read these boots are notorious for these problems. Leaking, cracking, breaking.
  11. Backfiring out of the carb is a typical symptom of a lean condition. Vacuum leak (sucking air from places OTHER than air filter), or your pilot screw is set wrong, or both. Or somethings changed and it needs re-jetting, or someones monkeyd in the carb and changed the jets. Mine does this as well, or well did, like I said I leave my choke partly on. I know for sure I have a leak at the boot between the carb and engine. Take a can of carb or brake clean and spray it around your carb while its running, if the rpms increase, you have a vacuum leak. If I had to venture a guess
  12. Mine does that a bit too, I have an 89, I just ordered a carb rebuild kit. Theres really not much you can accomplish by sprays and what not, it really needs to be taken apart and cleaned. If you have never done a carb rebuild before dont be intimidated, take your time, take pics if needed, its pretty easy. Does your model carb have the single cable? Not sure when it switched as Im new to these, mine has two cables, one for the butterfly and one for the needle. Possibly a vacuum leak, sucking in air form somewhere, thats one of the reasons Im rebuilding mine, I cant run mine w/o the choke part on. Or maybe your pilot jet improperly adjusted. If this quad is new to you, buy the book for it, Im sure it could use a valve adjustment as well. Thats my next plan when I find a way of getting my fuel tank off thats messed up.
  13. Hey all, just signed up. New to ATVs as well, just bought my first quad last week. 89 Yamaha Big Bear 350. Spent the last week or so ordering and installing some parts. Barely ran when I got it and now it does pretty well, still have some lean problems but Ill get to those. Waiting for my Clymer manual to come in so I can learn a bit more. Just downloaded a service manual from here so Im currently going through that till mine comes in. Took apart the carb and cleaned and adjusted it a bit, runs waaaaay better now, just got back from a test drive. I can take off and idle now w/o feathering the throttle to keep going Always a plus.

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