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Found 8 results

  1. 2005 / 06 Honda 680 Rincons are pretty much bullet proof but the 2005 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 has more features like locking front differential, hi & lo range, more power, better brakes but they have issues like water easily getting into the air box, leaking oil seals, electrical issues ect... I know later year BF 750"s are more reliable but I cant afford a newer model. Any owners willing to tell me their experiences with these models will very much help me to decide which to get. Please don't tell me to buy something else as I prefer independent rear suspension and don't like Polaris models.
  2. Check this out: I have been working on these and trying to get the word out on the forums. http://www.kawieriders.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1314451#post1314451
  3. what is the difference in a 2007 650and 2007 750 crank and can the be interchanged
  4. Ok guys Ive got a few more for ya. TIRES: Ive thought about getting new rubber for the wheeler it has some half worn down 25" Kenda executioners on it and Id like to get something that maybe rides a little better and does as good or better in the mud if thats an option. Any tire model suggestions? Also I would like to go to a 27" or mayb e even a 28" are there any disadvantages to doing this would I have to change anything on the wheeler to make up for the larger tires? Ive had a couple people tell me that they would be hard on the clutch. WHEELS: Ive seen some really nice looking aluminums but not sure they are tough enough to handle trail riding...Are they??? If so what would you reccommend, id like a little off set to give it a slightly wider stance and better stability but a buddy has a set of ITP wheels and the rear is offset a lot compared to the frnt and it looks great but hes constantly getting the back wheels hung up on trails SNORKEL: I see that the airbox on the brute is where a normal wheelers gas cap would be, so that being said am I good to go with water as long as it doesnt go over that point os is it not sealed up to the box? Also how about the belt and it staying dry, do I need to do anything to ensure that it doesnt get soaked and leave me stranded. Oh by the way I love this thing the more I ride it the more Im glad I went with the powerhouse, Ive run with a couple polaris 500s 700s a grizzly 660, and 700 and a couple rincon 680s that were built and they cant touch my stock 750, although she likes her gas thats for sure i got about 50miles and Im needing a refill
  5. Somebody suggested that we start a thread for Brute Force related topics, so here it is. I'll Feel free to talk about whatever you want, as long as it relates to your Brute. Done a great mod? Outran a competitor? Smoked a sport quad lately? Let's hear it! I'll start: I love my Brute Force!!!!!
  6. Found this courtesy of ATVFrontier dot com, if it helps someone great if not sorry. K-TECH NEWS Vol #18 Issue 1 2005 KVF750 Connector Corrosion Creates Electrical Havoc Do you have a KVF750 exhibiting strange electrical problems? There have been reports of some very strange electrical symptoms that can be difficult to diagnose. Typical symptoms are listed below in the order from most common to the least common: 1. Fan does not activate and the engine overheats 2. Meter stays on and the battery goes dead 3. Fuse keeps blowing 4. Engine stalls when 4wd is engaged and does not restart, but it restarts in 2wd. 5. Engine starts without ignition key (when just green button is pressed). 6. Check belt light is flashing. The cause for these symptoms can be often traced to corrosion forming inside one of the two white plastic 1"x1-1/4"x3/8" joint (BUS) connectors that are taped to the main wiring harness. There is one under the front fender between the front shock towers and another one under the rear fender near the fuel tank. So far the problem has ocurred only on the rear connector. More specifically, the rear connector/harness is attached to the tube frame just to the right side of igniter/control unit area. If you pry open the cap of the connector, you may find greenish corrosion (electrolysis) formed inside between the bare metal contacts. The electrolysis occurs within the connector because there are positive and negative wire terminals joined together without any barrier to seperate them. On the rear connector the white wires are always on (+), the brown wires are ignition on (+) and the black/yellow wires are ground (-). If your customers ride in deep water or somehow cause water intrusion into this connector, a special prevention is required because the problem could repeat. After cleaning up the corrosion or the main harness is replaced (because the connector itself is not available seperate), some dialectric grease should be applied inside the connecter and it should be well sealed to prevent further moisture intrusion. The ultimate repair is to remove all of the black/yellow ground wires, solder them together and seal them seperately from the connector.

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