Quantcast
Jump to content

2005 Polaris Sportsman 500 Fan Replacement


PolarisRich

Recommended Posts

Well another broken part on this bike. (2005 SP 500.H.O.) I went for a little ride the other day and the "HOT" light on the dash started to flash. I quickly turned off the machine and realized that the fan wasn't working. I tried to spin it by hand and it was seized solid. What a PITFA! I now have the bike at home and I took the fan off to try to rebuild the SPAL motor. It's not a tough job but when I took the motor apart it was full of mud and water. The front bearing had failed. I cleaned it up the best I could and got it running again but it is now noisy as hell and I don't trust it.

Has anyone here had to change the fan on there machine?

Is there a good aftermarket fan I can order instead a OEM?

The stealer over here wants $350! Not a chance in hell will I pay that for a fan.

Does any one have any part #'s?

On the back of my fan it says....

VA55/CWP-54A

Thanks for any help. I need to get this bike up and running soon!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Part # is 2410383 Babbits online parts has a new fan for $197.94. I know that is still expensive, but here is a link to their site. I would be willing to bet that you could use just about any 12 volt fan, that you can get to fit and doesn't draw too much current. As far as aftermarket for your machine goes, I have no idea, check ebay. I would willing to bet that you could replace the bearings in the fan though. There should be some #'s stamped into the bearing indicating its size, one number indicates outer diameter, the next inner diameter and the other width. Just make sure you get sealed bearings.

Polaris ATV Parts - BabbittsOnline - Muskegon, Michigan

Edited by DirtDemon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have checked Babbits and Ronnies an I still think I can get a better price.

Has anyone ever bought off the The-Fan-Man ? I talked to him yesterday and he's calling me back today with a price. I guess the part # I gave him is not a # that he stocks, so he has to call Spal to get a price. I checked out the Spal website and cross reference the fan #'s and from what I can find it's going to run me about $80 +tax+shipping.

As for replacing the bearing, I don't think it's an option due to the bearing being stamped into the housing and locked in place. The housing is actually overtop of the bearing on both sides so pressing it out would destroy the housing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replace my AC stock fan with a $50 part from autozone. They are not as well built compared to the factory ones for deep water riding but for the trails they work just fine. (I rode my autozone fan in deep water for about a year before it gave out, then just got a new one, still around $100) Just measure the diameter of your fan and then check out what they have in stock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I talked to "the fan man" a few minutes ago and I ordered a direct replacement (Spal) fan for $56+tax and shipping. Funny, when I called Spal directly they quoted me $79. I guess it pays to call around.

So for around $100 I get a new fan. Thats much better than $350 from the dealer.

Now I just have to sit here and wait for the package while all my buddies are out ripping up and down the river behind my place. This sucks!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey I got a question i got a 2009 polaris 550 EFI and im looking at getting a snorkel kit but i can't find one that fits my bike i found them for 850 and 500 will the same snorkel kit work for my bike. Im also looking for a radiator relocation kit but im running into the same problem. If you have any information it would help.

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really cant find much info on the radiator relocation kits for the 550. From what I read is that the cooling systems on the XP's work exrtemely well due to the stock rad location. I have also read that people who do add a radiator relocation kit use a genaric kit (one size fits all). Also some sites are saying that there is going to be a model specific kit for the 550 and 850 xp's comming soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
The fan came in today along with a damn brokerage fee from UPS.

I tore the fan apart and had to change the connector. The one on the bike is different than the one that came with the fan. I installed the motor on the old fan and it works great!

Thanks guys.

Rich: What was the part # for the fan motor from The Fan Man, I talked to them yesterday and they wanted the part #, was it SPAL 30100411???

Thanks Trev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rich: What was the part # for the fan motor from The Fan Man, I talked to them yesterday and they wanted the part #, was it SPAL 30100411???

Thanks Trev

Hey Trev

I did talk to Jack III at the Fan Man for ya and this is what you need...

The part # on the new fan is...

VA09-AP12/C-54A

Spal part # 30100411

All I did was swap the new motor that comes with the new fan into the original Polaris fan housing. You'll have to solder on the end plug of the original bad motor onto the new motor from Spal.

Spec's

Puller

Total draw 9 Amps

950 CFM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Trev

I did talk to Jack III at the Fan Man for ya and this is what you need...

The part # on the new fan is...

VA09-AP12/C-54A

Spal part # 30100411

All I did was swap the new motor that comes with the new fan into the original Polaris fan housing. You'll have to solder on the end plug of the original bad motor onto the new motor from Spal.

Spec's

Puller

Total draw 9 Amps

950 CFM

Great Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By BruceG
      Hi guys. I have a problem where the quad will start and run well for about 5 minutes and then it dies. On inspection the airbox has oil in it (quite a lot). The oil is pumping through the cylinder head breather hose. This problem first happened suddenly. I have since done the top end including, piston, gaskets, rings and valves. I have also done the carb (not that I thought that this was the problem). The compression seems normal. The only thing that I can think of, is that I did not grind the valves well enough. Anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it? Any other thoughts?
    • By Its-always-something
      Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
       
      Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
       
       
      Any help and information greatly appreciated.
    • By kiriyaaoi
      Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves.  From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
       
      1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match.  I have no idea what this would cost.
      2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
       
      #1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option.  However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number,  11100-19B10, instead of  11100-19B01 like for all earlier models.  What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years.  Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical.  Would those work as well possibly?  I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on.  Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
       
      Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
         
       
    • By Tuzz
      Bucking started about a month ago and works ok after 1/2 hour warmup.  Today while working on it i discovered that if i put the ignition switch in LIGHT position it runs fine right from the start.
      I'm stumped!  Any idea why this could be?  

    • By kantrud97
      Hello i have a 2005 Bombardier Outlander max xt 400, i recently split the case to fix a oil leak. while in there i took out the oil pump and i cant find the torque specs for the oil pump to go back in, i tend to over tighten everything so im trying to go be the torque specs so i dont break anything.
       
      Thank you in advance
×
×
  • Create New...