Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

quinnkaeb

yamaha kodiak 400 !help needed!

Recommended Posts

i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I had one of these Yamaha Kodiaks but a 450 and after it sat for a while, the float pin in the carb became corroded causing the float to be stuck up. It would startand run out of fuel in the bowl. I would check your carb.

When it's just cranking, spray some starter fluid into the air intake. If it starts, it's fuel starved.

* Topic moved to Yamaha ATV forum.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put in a brand new carb and the new carb came with extra jets. Should I check jets? Could it be the starter?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like ajmboy is right on point with this. Question why did you change cdi, stator etc? No spark issue? Reason why I'm asking I went through the same problem with my electrical system "Yamaha" and replaced the same components. Thanks to the help of this forum. However after I Installed the new stator the bike started right up but seemed to run really weird, starting not starting etc so I put the old cdi back in and the bike fired and ran perfectly. Turns out the new cdi did not work correctly with that bike even though it was for that bike but not an oem part. And did you change the coil going to the plug? Shot in the dark but I found mine cracked. Just a few points to check out. 

 Having said all of that I'm going to agree on the carberator problem.  I recently took mine apart twice and found the first time I missed a few spots while cleaning. Def take that float needle out and clean it good and a trick I use is taking an old bicycle brake cable and separating the strands cutting one strand off about 6 inches long and use that to get inside the small orafaces of the carb and use the small cans of compressed air that you buy at any local stationary store to blow out he small ports it comes with the small tube to attach to the nozzle.

Hope this helps. Good luck. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I replaced the Cdi because of spark issues. The ignition coil is good. The carb is brand new, could it still have problems? The stator was replaced by the last owner. I checked it and it was good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


3 minutes ago, quinnkaeb said:

I replaced the Cdi because of spark issues. The ignition coil is good. The carb is brand new, could it still have problems? The stator was replaced by the last owner. I checked it and it was good.

Did you try the starter fluid test just to make sure its not fuel starving? You had mentioned that it would start and then die out, that's usually lack of fuel

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How did you check it? Has to be ohms test not voltage. If you go back and look at some of my old posts I asked the same questions about the stator testing. If someone jumped started that bike or welded on the bike as I learned here on the forum can damage the stator. It will still make voltage! Don't be fooled. But simplify this entire spark issue by checking for spark. Pull the plug put it on the ignition wire and test for spark while cranking the engine. If spark is there that's a huge relief! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have not tried the starter fluid yet. I did test ohms and it was good. And yes I do have spark. By the way, thanks for all you guys input.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since it is a new  carb it should be  ok, but check to be sure fuel is getting to  it. Tank  valve  could be  blocked or partially  blocked.. crap  could be in the  line , if you  have a fuel filter  on it ,  check it is not plugged .

For those  working on  cleaning  carbs and jets :  instead  of  using  a piece of copper wire  or a strand  from  cable ,  go to  a  welding supply  store  and  buy  a set  of "tip cleaners"  they  will  have various  sized  cleaner  wires  that  fit  pretty  much every  size orifice  you'll  find  in the  carbs.  They're  much  more convenient  and better  for the  job.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its getting good fuel to the carb because when I pull of the fuel line fuel runs out good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Wow well it's narrowed down to the carb and intake. Having spark is a huge battle relief. Try the spray if it fires then clearly a fuel delivery issue. Quick question new carb oem or aftermarket ? Does it have a brand name? Sometimes the aftermarket ones are garbage. 

If the carb turns out to be ok then maybe look at the manifold that the carb is mounted to. Maybe a blockage ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is not oem, the oem carb was $500 so I got one on amazon. I forget the brand name. Thanks. I will try the starter fluid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I feel your pain $500 is a lot for a carb. $29.00 you get a complete rebuild kit comes with the set screws, seals, jets etc. just saying but I'm a little Leary of the aftermarket carbs. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely a carb issue. The setting are not set right. Almost sounds like it is running lean. Check the float setting first to see if it is getting the fuel into the bowl. Also, is there a rubber boot from carb to motor? If so look for a tear or hole. That will make it run lean also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By JacobSlabach
      got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price.  one of which is a yamaha warrior.  anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike?  Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet.  The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work.  he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears.  things I see:  clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box.  I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first.  also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts.  Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last).  any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
      the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like.  lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris 
    • By Sonders
      Hey guys.  New guy here with my first Yamaha quad.  Traded for an 01' Kodiak 400 that needs some tlc.  It was running but idle is off, missing some hardware here and there, none of the lights work on instrument panel and front brakes didn't work were the main things that jumped out at me.  I drug it home and have started tearing into it.  Started with fresh oil change and flushed the dirty brown coolant and replaced with fresh coolant.  The carburetor is missing the side cover for the throttle cable and I don't see where I can buy just that cover without buying a complete carb, so went ahead and ordered a new one (hasn't arrived yet).  the Starter relay solenoid was crap and had to mess with it to get it to start half the time so replaced it.  I have a few questions as I'm going through this quad that I'll list below.
       
      1. It has a cut plug on wiring harness under the instrument panel.  Can anyone tell me what this plug goes to?  There currently is not a plug running to the 4wd indicator light on instrument cluster so I'm wondering if 2 of the wires are for that possibly??
       
      2.  Also in the front, there is a air duct under the rack and black plastic panel that runs down to the engine case.  Is there supposed to be some sort of cover or anything over it?  I looked online at parts diagrams and couldn't even find this duct or the duct that runs up by taillight in any of the diagrams.
       
      3. this fuel line on top left side of carburetor; is this what goes to the gas tank cap or is it just a vent line for carb?  Follow up question, where does the line that comes off of the gas tank cap go to?
       
      I'm sure I'll have many more questions as I work through this thing.  Thanks in advance for any replies.
       



    • By Asen_77
      Hi All,
      My name is Asen and I am from Eastern Europe, Bulgaria. Riding a Yamaha Raptor 700R and this is my first Quad wanted for a vey long time :)

       
    • By uzejo
      My lakota has a new carb and just had a top end redone by a professional, but it will not start. The electric start turns it over great, there seems to be compression. It seems like its trying to start, getting right there and just doesnt catch. It does start occasionally, but wont run for more than a couple of minutes and smells rich. Im assuming the carb needs to be tuned, but im just wondering if anyone else has any ideas before i get a chance to work on it.
       
      Thanks
    • By Ed Zeppeli
      Hi all,

      I picked up this quad after the previous owner couldn't get it going.

      The issue is that I can't get it to fire at idle or at all.

      I've...

      - replaced plug. Decent blue spark. Also tested with spark tester inline.
      - rebuilt the carb. PO had already bypassed vacuum lines from petcock. There's fuel at the cylinder
      - Checked compression with new gauge. reads 190 psi
      - cleaned all contacts I could access.
      - am currently jumping with car battery. Solenoid jumpered.
      - checked cam timing at TDC and adjusted valve lash
      - put gas directly into cylinder to see if it will fire at least momentarily

      Motor turns over well. Plug gets wet. 

      Motor may fire once or twice but smokes through exhaust a bit as if it's trying to fire or combusting.

      This leads me to suspect timing. As mentioned I checked the flywheel mark versus cam marks. Perhaps someone has been in there before because I can't find a 'T' on the flywheel but there is a very visible paint mark which aligns with TDC position on piston. Possibly a slipped flywheel/woodruff?

      Is it possible that if it had seen previous repairs, that the timing could still be off? I'm reluctant to dig into the flywheel/stator area if there's something else I could have missed but all signs point me to that area. Would a bad CDI cause spark timing to be off?

      Anywhere else to diagnose incorrect spark timing?


      I've scoured these forums and elsewhere but I'm posting just in case there's something I've overlooked up until now.

      Thanks very much for reading!


      Warren
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Dee Wilson
      Hey there,
      The short of it: I'm getting a single click when I hit the start, and nothing else.
      The long: I'm a new owner to a 94 Timberwolf. I inherited it with the understanding that it needed a battery. It started without the battery when jumped, so I know it does work. I got the appropriate battery, charged it, and its reading 12.7V. Installed it, and all I'm getting is that click. Cleaned the carburetor today and reinstalled under someones advice, but still nothing. I'm gonna take the battery in to autozone to get it checked, and I was going to head to the spark plug next. But like I say, I'm new to this. Thanks for any and all advice.
    • By Don Colburn
      i bought a set of rims and tires off a 450 kodiak IRS its a 2013 factory rims and front rims are striking the calipers on my 2017 kodiak 450 anyone have any insight ,i thought they would just bolt on
    • By Zacharia Maisonneuve
      i have a 1993 timberwolf yamaha and the compression is good and lights work but for some reason the electricity is not going to the spark plug(s)! i got a friend to check it out and they said its no use but im not giving up! please help with this!
    • By chuckufarlie
      I have a 2018 Kodiak 450 EPS that just this past Sunday I ran through a bit of water.
      After the puddle the belt was slipping, so I pulled over and drained the ultramatic housing and the slipping problem went away. This was all in L and everything seemed to work fine. Later when I got on a road, I put it in H, but it still rode like it was in low... i.e. I had to rev it up a lot just to get to 30mph.
      When at home I pulled the ultramatic cover off to inspect, and it looked okay in there. Not much dirt, belt and everything are clean, but when I rev up the engine (with cage in place, of course), the belt doesn't get to the top of the clutch (maxes out about an inch or 1.5" from top of clutch, so maybe it is normal).. I put it back together but same thing... H seems like L still.
      Do you think the clutch needs to be further dissected for cleaning, or could this be an issue with the gear selector?
       
    • By YamahaGrizzly
      Yamaha Grizzly 700 gets STUCK in Pond Huge thanks for https://myneighbourhoodnl.com/ for the rags we mentioned in the start of the video! we will definitely put them to good use! A few close calls in this video thats for sure! thought I sunk the ol grizzly for a split second... Gotta love Yamaha with their single cylinders. I really think its time for them to come out with a twin now! But gotta stay true to the Yamaha grizzly 700s! This was a really cool run that we happen to go on. no route for the yamaha grizzlys 700. Just picked away finding spots we never went before really. Make sure to follow the yamaha grizzly 700 on instagram! instagram.com/offroad.dan instagram.com/muddymillz
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...