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Damn, it took 30 years of driving to cause my first accident, and on Friday the damn 13th. Did a low speed rear end into the back of a lifted truck and got into it's trailer receiver. The only place it made contact with was at the very front center of the hood close to where it latches. Unfortunately the impact was enough that there's a longitudinal hump in the middle of the hood now, bowed 6 inches on each side above the quarter panels, which weren't involved at all thank God. Both my headlights are cracked at the top, but not because they got hit; I think it was because the hood and it's latch was pushed back during the collision possibly deforming the support structure, causing the to separate. The hood is lifted up about 3 inches above each headlight and when looking in at the support material just behind each headlight, one side shows cracks and the other cracks and about a 1/2 gap in the material. Can't tell but it may resemble fiberglass, not really sure? My best guess is that the whole front bumper is gonna have to come off and that entire front support piece be replaced. Any advice on how hard this can be? I do a lot of my own work but I really don't want to be getting into this especially with the weather getting so bad now.
When I go junkyard shopping for parts, what year Tauruses are compatible with my '02?
Unfortunately I didn't notice some of the rust hitting the undercarriage of my 2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660, but saw it the other day when I was doing some maintenance, oil change, air filter, spark plug, etc. The left side footrest broke and that's causing the plastic to hit the front wheel. It broke right at the welds from too much rust. Looks to me like what I need is (looked this up on yamahapartshouse.com):
YAMAHA FOOTREST BOARD 5KM-27481-10 Left side (broken)
YAMAHA FOOTREST BOARD 5KM-27488-10-00 Right side (rusted and will probably break eventually)
Does anyone have a less expensive source? I did see on ebay a couple of listings but it still comes out to @ $50 each,
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
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I picked up a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 2X4 a week or so back in non running condition, apparently they said it needed a new carburetor or a battery, I cleaned the carburetor thoroughly and got it running on idle and without choke now and it shifts into all the gears even into reverse. Aside from making me bounce a little when trying to start out with a bit of throttle the shock suffice to say needs work. Anyways I made a video of it running and would like your opinions on it, as to how it sounds while running. It seems like it has a little whine I'm not sure why that is maybe someone can tell me what it is. Anyways here is the video.
By Gary Ferguson
My old Big Bear nearly left me stranded but I managed to limp back to my garage just before it died. Now No Spark. I’ve changed the obvious, inexpensive and easy parts- spark plug & coil without any luck.
Ive stripped it down and traced all of the related wiring, checking as many connections as I can but no luck again.
Next I pulled the cover and accessed the stator housing to inspect and do some resistance testing to ID a possible short.
Here are my readings:
Source coil- 325 ohms
Pickup coil- 225
Can anyone tell me if these are good numbers, and if good, where to go next?
I assume my next purchase will either be a new stator or CDI, but since neither of these tend to be returnable items I want to be as sure as I can I’m gonna get a resolution to the problem!!
Gary in SC
By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
By Wolf Studios
Hi guys so I'm looking for any help or advice with a yamaha big bear 350 1997 (i think) it's fairly dirty and just been say for many years, boss says it's a non runner and I've tried and it will not start, ideally would love to do it up and get it running but have been told the engine has gone, cannot find a new engine anywhere. Anything I should check first before just taking the entire thing apart?
Working on my oldest son's buddy's 2000 Big Bear. He was having some power loss at WOT so i thought it worth while to clean the carb and put at kit in it...or at least clean the OEM jets and use the new orings that come in the kit. It starts and idles like a champ, but dies and wants to backfire with any throttle at all. I assume lean because it will run decent with the choke on. Air screw adjusted fine, nice crisp idle. This one has fuel/air screw, low speed jet, mid jet, and main jet. I was assuming just trash in the low speed circuit so pulled it and cleaned again, still does the same.
Two questions I guess:
1. Does it sound most likely trash in the off idle circuit? This one has a few more passages and jets than I'm used to...and a darn diaphragm.
2. It now really wants to leak at the bowl drain screw. It doesn't seem to tighten enough to completely stop the flow. Seat looks good, screw was dirty but cleaned up fine with a touch of 2000 grit paper. First for me. Any idea here?
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