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Posted

That looks like a pretty good set.   The manufacturer has it listed that it’s as good as oem.  Best part is it’s amazon and they always back up there sh** so I would give em a shot.   

Make sure you have extra cotter pins and grease etc. prob going to feel real tight like a new suspension when your done too. 

  What are you going to do about the axle? It would be crazy to have it all torn down and not throw an axle in.  

Posted

I dont know...  I'm really at the end of my budget on this bike- I mean I really want to, but nada guide says its only worth 2000 and I have 1900 in it :swoon:

as for grease, what kind do you use?  I was using I spray on WD-40+lithium grease for grease and then just plain WD-40 for stuck or rusty stuff....

Posted

I would finish it off the right way now due to what you have into it.   That axle will eventually break loose.  As far as grease Just the usual upper and lower control arm grease points etc.  Are there grease nipples on the bike ? 

Posted

grease nipples?  (need enlightening there haha)  Ig I will pull everything off (to replace the bushings), and then I will check the rear axles and see if one is noticeably slipping.  If I peg the throttle from a stop, both back tires spin, so I know it isnt too bad yet...

haha I said 'replace' the bushings-  cant replace them if there arnt any there.  So I should say 'add' bushings.

and the reared chatter I was hearing could have been a-arms banging around...  I'm just not gonna order a axle till I know one is bad.  I already made that mistake with the stater-  now I have a $100 stater in my shop and the bike doesnt need one.  I guess I might use it one day....

Posted

Well worst case is you have a member here with the same bike that will need it and maybe they will pay you for it plus shipping.  

As far as a grease nipple it’s the fitting that you attach a grease gun too to pump into a part on the bike.   

Posted

You will get there. The trick is to buy low (obviously) and sell at a fair profit.  That means not buying someone else’s problems. Finding barn bikes, bikes that have been sitting but in tact is key.  I’m very selective in what I pick up. And know the value of a resale even before I buy it.   Example. I seen a racer on let go. Father was selling sons old bike he went away to collage and that was that.  Bike didn’t run. But it was nice. $400 bucks! I knew I was going to clean the carb fresh gas and plug and sell it for $950.  I got right in my truck and flew! Before anyone else got there. 

Went as per plan except I sold it for $900 three days later. Put that money in my stash can and picked up another and another etc. Wound up with enough cash to hit my 2012 rancher without touching a cent of my own money. All upgrade money.  The  bottom line is I buy bikes that need very little parts and more labor then anything.  Cosmetic work can be done at home. Seat covers, new grips etc. All inexpensive but effective when reselling. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

yeah thats another hiccup-  I cant drive and have to wait for my dad to take me to see these bikes.  usually on weekends.  I kinda have to find a overpriced bike and talk the guy down...  Looking at a 99 sportsman 335 that doesnt idle and needs a starter...  he wants $1600...  the bike is worth in very good cond $1200...  Its tires are also bald so I'd want to replace those...  I'm thinking if I could talk him down to $800...?  maybe I could get the bike looking nice and resale for at least $1200

Posted

So a starter would be $40 maybe $50. Carb rebuild $50 then some miscellaneous stuff another $80. That’s $170 invested plus your time to an $800 purchase. $970 total.  Then to sell it for $1200 where the buyer will knock you down $100. So $130 profit? Is it worth all the effort ? You would have to have get that bike for $500 or $600 to be worth your while.  Or pick it up for the $800 and do the repairs and get $1500 back.  

Posted

yeah..  I'm seeing ya.  I just dont see many good deals out there on CL..  

Btw, having a starting issue on the sportsman today-  three times I turned the key, I heard a click and then a wine, then the starter fired up, but the engine didnt turn.  Thinking its a bendix...

Posted

The noise you heard was prob the fuel pump priming up.  

As far as deals, there are some out there.  You just have to learn how to look better.  It took me a long time to figure out where and how.  And I also constantly tell everyone I know that hey if you hear of a quad for sale or anything woth a motor let me know.  So I get a call once or twice a week.  It’s better to leave a bike that’s not worth the time or effort or money.  

Posted

there are no hoses hooked to the fuel pump.  its a vacuum pump so its completely disconnected.  The noise was coming from the starter (it wouldnt turn, but wined).  I think the bendix just broke lose and then the starter turned freely.  maybe the bendix got jammed- I wouldnt know until I open it up.

Posted

I'm  glad I searched on your starter  before I  commented   LOL..   Most quad starters work through a gear train  and spragg clutch. I see  the Polaris does in fact  use a  Bendix system.  Most likely the bendix is  gummed up  and stuck in the retracted position. Normally the torque of the  starter spinning up  sends the bendix gear into engagement with the ring gear on the flywheel.  One thing to  check before you tear into the bendix----  Is the battery  fully charged?.. If the  voltage is low the starter may  not spin up  quick enough to  extend the bendix gear  into  the  ring  gear to start the motor. The motor  will  spin over too slow and whine  but not actually  engage  to turn the motor  over.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

battery was warm.  I took it apart and as I was taking it apart, I saw a handy notice sticker that said dont let water get into the flywheel box (or something like that)  well when I was in AL, my friend and I were going to pull the flywheel to replace the stater.  didnt reseal the cover or tighten the flywheel nut when put back on.  yesterday, I took the cover off and found an inch of ice in the bottom of the chamber- also the flywheel nut wasn't tightened and had come off (we were doing most of the work on the quad in AL at 3 in the morning😎).  So the water got into the recoil- locked up that spring, rusted the flywheel, locked up the bendix...  (I'm kinda glad this happened tho cause I can only imagine what might happen if the flywheel had come off.........😨)

waiting for warmer weather to make sure all moisture gets out and then gonna spray everything down with WD-40/lithium grease and then seal the cover with gasket material...

Hoping that and the bushings come in in time so I can get the bike up and running before the weekend

Posted

I love polaris for their performance-  and also 90% of the issues I've had out of this bike, I caused:  Hooked the battery up wrong and blew the ecm, pod and speedo, didnt reseal the flywheel cover and locked up all components in there, blew the axle by dropping out the strut when I put in the lift....  broke the float on the stock carb and had to order a new one......  the only thing I didnt cause was the bushings and the battery, but this bike was ridden by youngsters its previous life, flipped, and left outside.  If anything, this bike has sold me on polaris because its taken the abuse sooo well.  also what got me going on polaris was to watch my friend beat the crap out of his 500 and it didnt give him a hiccup...  (of course parts went out on it here and there like any other older bike)

Posted (edited)

ok so it seems it might have have a bad head gasket??  Its smoking white smoke when cold (starts a minute after initial(cold) startup, then quits after about 3 minutes).  I smelled it as it was coming out and its smelless.  Maybe just condensation?  It sure gushes tho..when cold.  Thing that got me thinking it was antifreeze was the level in the viewing window was low.  But I also didnt check it until I noticed the smoke or condensation or whatever it is...  Also what should I put in for antifreeze?

Edited by JacobSlabach
Posted

Usually the white smoke would continue and not clear up. Also the smell would be there. It’s a sweet kinda odor.  What you could do its run the bike for a few min and let it warm up.   Once you have it warmed up good if possible then shut it down.  Take the spark plug WIRE off and crank the engine for a few seconds.  Then remove the spark plug and bring the piston to the top.   Stick a Q tip inside the spark plug hole and swab the head.  You should see moisture or the color of anti freeze on the Q tip.  As far as anti freeze I like to use prestone and keep it clean.  Nothing stands out like bright green! 

Also check the color of your oil.  Make sure you don’t see anti freeze or any discoloring in the oil.   

Take a sharpie marker and mark the level of anti freeze on the reservoir so you can monitor it.  

Posted

ok.  my friend had some 50-50 antifreeze.  Also he filled my gas tank up when we were at a gas station and topped it off.  result:  flooded out the airbox twice and hydro-locked twice.  lol  a day of one-and-off riding and it just now is getting to lower than a full tank.  I smelled the exhaust when it was smoking and it does smell sweet.  It also overheated once, but I was riding through the woods in low gear(high rpm) and only about say 5mph.  Let it sit and it was fine.  It wont overheat period when I'm going faster than a crawl.  What I'm wondering is if I switched back to the fuel pump, would that help with flooding?  and should I fix the head gasket or just sell as is?

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