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Wrye Pipeworks

2000 Kawasaki Prairie 300 4x4 Rear Seal Leak

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Picked up a 2000 prairie 300 4x4. It is leaking out of the rear output seal where the driveshaft contacts to the engine. I'm havi g a really hard time finding out how to remove the driveshaft online, finding a service manual, and finding the seal on a parts diagram. Anyone know how to remove the driveshaft or know where a service manual is for it?


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Welcome to Quadcrazy @Wrye Pipeworks  

That rear drive should come off exactly like the bayous come off.  It’s pretty simple actually. Spray the bolts down that you will be removing before you start with some WD 40.   You have to have something under the bike so the rear wheels are off the ground.  Remove the rear wheels.   Then disconnect the brake line and the vent hoses at the rear drum.   There are four bolts that hold the drive shaft to the engine housing (bevel gear housing). Remove the four bolts. You need an open end wrench and a swivel socket with a long extension to get the four bolts off. I think they are 12mm.  

Then you unbolt the rear shocks and the entire rear and axle will slide out of the engine.  

The only thing that may be different on the prairie is a swing arm support that may need to be unbolted. 

There is a thin metal plate washer and an O-ring in place where the engine and axle separate.   My guess is the O-ring is bad and that’s why you have the leak.   

HAVE A DRAIN PAN UNDERNEATH!! Oil will come out of the engine. Even if you drain the bike there will be some more. 

You can pick up a gasket kit from Amazon. It’s worth getting the entire kit for $38 bucks. It comes with every possable gasket you will need down the road. 

Putting it back together goes the same way just add grease to the splines and around the new O-ring and send it back in. You may have to spin the rear axle a little to line the splines up when sending it back into the engine. When you tighten up the axle connection at the engine use a cris cross pattern when tightening the four 12mm bolts.  Top right, bottom left etc you get that right ? 

If you can post a few pics of the rear assembly: shocks connection points etc prior to starting and if anything stands out we will let you know. 

Good luck.  

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Got to the seal today. Yes you do need to remove the swingarm to access it. Unfortunately the kit didnt have the oil seal or the o ring but j found them.

Anyway, next question. My rear break drum is completely froze. I had to tap the levers back just so it wasnt engaged. I'll open it up tomorrow but any hints at what to look at first that could cause it to not move at all with the cables attached? 

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That sucks about the gasket kit.   I thought it had everything in it.   As far as the break drum goes it’s common for the moving parts to seize up after sitting.  Take the wheels off and the drum if you can.  Spray some penetration oil or WD 40 spray the parts down. Try not to get anything on the brake shoes.  Pick up some lithium grease or graphite grease.  Graphite grease does not collect dust and use it on the reassembly putting it on all the moving parts.  Just a bit though.   You don’t want globs of this all over in the brake drums.   Double check all the springs are good and not broken or on the verge of breaking.  If the pads are good sand them down a little bit with a 150 grit piece of sand paper just to rough them up a little bit.   

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the same thing happened on my bayou- rear end seized, I thought my diff went but it was the brakes seized up (it wasnt after sitting or anything- just started it up one day rode it around and parked it and then tried to roll it and it wouldnt budge.  I opened up the drums and the pads had come off the shoes and jammed.  I had to get new brake shoes.  I would open it up before you do anything else such as buying new brake shoes tho

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