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Chris2018

1996 Kawasaki Mojave KSF250 No Spark

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I have a 1996 Kawasaki Mojave KSF250. I have no manual on it and it has a no spark issue. If anyone could give me a hand with this or would possibly have a manual would appreciate it. 

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Hey Chris welcome to Quadcrazy. I’m working one a Mojave myself in the middle of a minor restoration process.  I’m assuming electrical pages ? 

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On 8/29/2019 at 10:46 PM, Frank Angerano said:

Hey Chris welcome to Quadcrazy. I’m working one a Mojave myself in the middle of a minor restoration process.  I’m assuming electrical pages ? 

Yes it is. And I can't seem to find much online and what I do find they want you to pay for. And normal life is playing havoc on funds at the moment lol

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Lol only thing I hear is where is it. I just look at her and point. God knows it's useless to ever try and argue with her, lol. Thanks would greatly appreciate it

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Here is what you should need. The wiring diagram covers from 1987 to 2002.  Like I said I’m tearing into my own Mojave so any questions you have ask away. 

Click on each pic to see it clearly. 

Let us know if you need a hand with troubleshooting. Good luck.  

 

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On 8/29/2019 at 10:46 PM, Frank Angerano said:

Hey Chris welcome to Quadcrazy. I’m working one a Mojave myself in the middle of a minor restoration process.  I’m assuming electrical pages 

Thanks. Now the only thing I can think of is when I use my multimeter to test the cdi and the coil I get no result at all for either. That does imply that I need to replace both correct.  I've tested the stator also and I get reading. Mind you I've done all this with the bike not  started due to the no spark issue

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Ok for so the cdi you really can’t test.  All other components you can. The stator test is pretty easy and I’m sure you did it the right way but can you explain the tests you did and how you did it ? 

As far as the secondary coil goes that too. My money would be on the cdi but a stator is a usual suspect also. 

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Once you rule out all the other parts which you can test that would qualify the cdi as pretty much your culprit. In addition to all of that testing we spoke about the additional items would be an ohms/continuity test on the kill switch, wiring is all in tact and inspected for damage or a worn out piece of wire insulation that is allowing the copper conductor to touch the frame and the ignition switch is properly working. 

Lastly it could be as simple as a corroded plug. But some dielectric grease and open all plugs and connectors one at a time and clean and add the geese.  It’s an older bike and corrosion happens after a while.  

It sounds like a lot but this is all about two hours worth of work that will rule out all other parts. 

Then we can try one more thing with the cdi that will sound outlandish but it’s worth a crack.   

Let me know!  

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I took all the tape and insulation off the wire harness and inspected each wire and the plugs on the wire harness. For the stator test I tested the BK/R @ BK/W, it was 93.5 if I remember correctly. Then BK @ BK/Y, then BK/Y @ ground and lastly BR @ BR. Now when I did these ohm tests it says to do it at ×1 or ×10. My tester's lowest setting is 200 so that's where I ran all of the tests. I haven't tested the on/off switch yet, I will do that tomorrow. The coil test I did I tested the 2 plug leads and got nothing, then I tested the one plug lead against the spark pug side of the coil and got nothing then I tested the other plug side against sparkplug side and also got nothing. All these tests I ran on ohm's with the meter set at 200 because that's my lowest setting. I appreciate your help and any input you may have. And one last thing. Is there supposed to be a battery in this bike or no. When I got it there wasn't one and didn't think anything of it because it's Kickstart  

 

Edited by Chris2018

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The stator test has to be as follows. Three wires coming from the stator. Test each of the three wires one  at a time going from one of the wires to ground on ohms.   You should NOT get a reading.  Next test each of the three wires from one to another. You should get a reading from one wire to another.  They should be close in readings.  The manual should tell you the range of numbers that are acceptable.  

 

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The tests I ran on the stator are from parts of the manual I was able to find on the net, (I believe they are the same test you described.) When I ran the tests they all fell within the range. I believe I wrote the results down i can get them from the garage in the morning.  I will retest the stator as you described tomorrow morning also and let you know what I get. I do appreciate all your help and in put.

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No problem on the help, that’s what Quadcrazy is here for. 

Definitely test each of the stator wires one at a time to ground, you should not get anything on the tester.  If so then it’s bad.  

As far as the other two wires coming from the stator they go to the pick up coil.  There is an ohms test acceptable range in the spec as well.  But focus on the stator for now.   

Kill switch is a must check because it could be something as simple as that.   

 

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I jus ran the tests on the stator. You say three wires but I have 5 wires on the 6 plug and 2 wires on the 2 plug. I'm taking that the BK/Y wire is grown because when I ran the test with the wires to ground the only wire I got a reading from what is the BK/Y and that was 1.5 . The other wire colors are BK/R , BK/W, BR , BR, 

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The other test I ran was each wire to the other the results are, BK/R- BR=0 , BR= 0 BK/W=92.7 Next BR- BR= 1.3, BK/W=0, BK/R=0, same for the other brown wire. And last BK/W- BK/R= 92.7, BR=0, BR=0

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I also checked the on off switch and I got a  reading when it was in the run position and no reading when it was in the off position. I also ran the 3 plug coming out of the stator and I got 121.6, the wires were black and yellow and solid black. And as I said my meter doesn't go low enough on settings so they were all done on ohm's set at the 200 spot 

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Sorry I was working on my own bike. Just wrapped up paint  looks sick!

Anyway that’s good testing. Just check one more thing. The two brown wires. Test each one on ohms from ground to each brown and see what you have.  Then test both brown wires on ohms. 

 

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I got 1.3 when I tested the 2 brown wires I believe, but I can double check tomorrow and make sure. And I believe I got no reading when I tested brown to ground but again I will double check tomorrow to make sure but I'm almost certain thats what it was. And your bike looks nice. I was looking at pictures today and what you have done to it. I had to take topend off today to replace a gasket that was leaking from before. I can say whoever had it didn take good care of it but little by little getting it back, I hope. Just hope im not goin to have to sink a ton of money in it. Did you pick yours up in the condition it's in, or have you done more previously

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I did pick mine up in good condition.  I have a check list and a few tools I bring with me whenever I buy a bike.  I actually posted a topic on buying a used bike here on Quadcrazy. God only knows where that post is but it’s helpful. I like to go through the basic fundamentals on an engine and check for spark, compression and bolts that have been wrenched to death.  None of which would be deal breakers but will significantly lower the value from my standpoint as far as paying. 

As far as tearing them down that’s going to happen whenever I buy one. Paint etc is standard for me to clean it up and plastics off so I can really see what the machine looks like mechanically and the wiring.   

My oldest loves to take them apart so that makes my life a little easier. 

On another note I did find a guy on letgo with a Mojave that wants very little money for. So if you wind up needing anything major or a cdi etc this machine looks to have everything on it except the front plastic. I can put you two in touch  if need be.

 

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I actually went against my own rule when I got this. I was telling my girl as long as there is spark and compression it's good it will run. Had great compression but no spark. But it didn't have the key switch so I figured it could be the reason and actually ended up paying 150 for it in the end because of the no spark. I figured hell at that price no reason not to. It's all here the plastics aren't broken to shit just needs to be cleaned up for the most part. If I can get this figured out 

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