Quantcast
Jump to content


1996 Kawasaki Mojave KSF250 No Spark


Chris2018

Recommended Posts

Double check that the exhaust is not backed up.  Even if you have to pull the silencer off and run it. The silencer could be clogged and causing this. Make sure you have the proper spark plug in the machine and not a hot plug.   

What did you set the air fuel screw at ? Spec says it’s 1-3/4 I went to 2 in mine and it ran good. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You put the gauge in tighten the adjustment until it takes a slight pull  for it to come out. Not tight where you have to yank the gauge out but enough where you need to pull it out out and it slides right out.  
 

If your 2 turns out go back a quarter to 1-3/4 and  see if it runs better. If not go 2-1/4 out and see how that goes.  Trial and error my friend.   How about that exhaust,any luck? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I wasn't able to get back out lastnight. Getting around to check things out now. I'm going to recheck my valve settings timing ect. I forgot to mention that the couple times I did test ride it not long after riding it would just quit shut off. I would have to wait and clean the plug. Could I just nock the insides out of the muffler rather then run it without one 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was able to get out today and pole the silencer off. It didn't seem to get as read. The top-end has a soft light ticking since I've adjusted the valves. I read this is normal is this correct. But for some reason it seems to run the best when I have the air fuel mixture screw all the way in, I have already bought a rebuild kit. The only thing I didn't get was the air/fuel screw but it came with a new rubber seal and washer for it. And the other thing the spark plug wire gets so hot it feels like it may melt. When I have the air fuel screw turned 13/4 out it spits and sputters when i put it in gear and let the clutch out

Edited by Chris2018
Miss type
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The air fuel screw is an important item on a rebuild kit. The tip of the screw gets worn down and that’s why your not getting an adjustment. Quick question, your coolant is full in the engine ? Thermostat and water pump are working including the fan ? It sounds like it’s got no coolant. If that exhaust silencer is not backed up then it’s running extremely hot for some reason.   Check your oil and make sure no discoloring as if coolant is mixed in with the oil as well.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A grey color, usually means water or coolant in the oil.  You didn’t have to drain it just take a bit out but if it’s black it could use a change anyway.   So that’s a good thing then if it’s a dark color. Moving on ! How about the thermostat housing? FYI you can take the thermostat out and use high heat silicone if the gasket gets torn or messed up as a temporary seal to test weather the water is circulating through the system.  Me personally I would put a new thermostat in because it’s open but you can test it the way I explained for now to see if the engine runs cool without the thermostat.  
If there is no circulation then the water pump is not spinning but that’s the next step. 
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After i checked the oil I put new oil in it. Then I tested it with just the radiator cap off not real sure what looki for but I believe the water actually moves in a circular motion. I didn't notice it moving but she when I pressed the throttle it pushed sone of it out. I then tried it with the thermostat out. I really didn't get to try it long bc of my nabiours bitching. So I will run that test a second time in an. Is there a test that can be done on the pump it's self?

 

 

 

But I was able to turn the fuel mixture screw out 2 turns with it out and it ran ok. It didn't feel like it wanted to die when put in gear and given gas

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not really a test on he pump I can think of other then the ones I mentioned.  What your looking for is coolant pushing out of the ports inside the radiator.  Drain a little coolant out if you have to maybe an inch or two so you can look down into the radiator. When the engine runs the pump spins and your coolant circulation happens.  That’s without the thermostat, when the thermostats installed the engine needs to reach temperature for it to open and then circulation begins.  Some engines have a small bypass hose to allow minor circulation to happen I don’t think that’s on the Mojave.  
I’m assuming you put the silencer back on since it was clear ? 
Here is a pic of the name of the carb rebuild kit I use. 
I know you said you pulled the screw out to 2 turns and it works but if you decide to change that screw at least you have a kit with the air fuel screw. 
I piss my neighbors off all the time until they need something lol. Snow blowers don’t start, pressure washers car problems etc.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I finally went out last night and litterly started from scratch. All the way down to piston and rings just to see if there is a chance I fu**** something up.. I got it all tore down, then back together looking over everything and doing everything I could to be certain. Started it up and the same thing starts to get hot. I then took the fan off and put it on the other side of the radiator so it would help blow the cool air at the motor rather then help direct it away from the motor likeit normally does I guess, it helped a little but not much. Finally I downloaded the manual and just looked and stared until finally it clicked I had the coolent hoses switched

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/5/2019 at 11:55 AM, Frank Angerano said:

Ok well maybe it truly is your cdi. Here  my crazy trick in mentioned earlier It works! If your cdi is damp inside this truck will fix it temporarily but allows you to see if this is the problem.   I did it before and it worked. Don’t laugh.  Do exactly what is shown here then go install it and give it a shot. 

 

So is the CDI box basically a "coil" like you have on a modern automotive engine?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I apologise for not getting back sooner things are hectic to say the least. I was going to just sell the old Mojave but my son likes it and enjoys being in the garage tinkering too. But to answer your question we were buying small parts as we could to fix it up since we are now keeping it. We were going to change out the valves and one of the bolts that hold the rocker arsm down broke off 

So now he is bummed out. Bc even with doing our small repairs he was able to ride it a little bit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By Mhatayas
      My uncle bought a Baja 250, 2006. Knew there was no spark since the get go. He don't know anything about quads so is getting me to help him try to get it running...
       
      battery is bad so I connected battery charger to it to crank it over , cranks over well , but no spark .... 
      Lights and everything work fine , but with each crank over using the e start switch , the display reads 999 888 777 666 ... Right down to 000 and repeats itself . 
       
      He managed to get a parts bike , I changed over the CDI and the coil and the stator from the parts bike and there was another black box by the voltage regulator I changed over ... I used my multimeter to confirm as much as I could works , it's hard without knowing which wires are which , and I cannot find any diagrams online for this bike ? 
       
      Do you think it could be the Killswitch? There's so many wires coming from there I don't know where to start . Also I should mention it appears the fan on the front of the bike has been taken off (the wires have been cut too ) 
       
      If this bike sparked it would run . The previous owner said he parked it one day and it just wouldn't start after.
    • By McG75
      Hello I’m new here and was wondering is anyone knew of good replacement part numbers for front struts and rear shocks for this atv? I think I’ve found a new rear shock, that looks like the original but there is no dimensions or anything and was wondering if there are any afterMarket new front struts available. I know it’s a long shot but any help would be appreciated. 
    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
      .
       
       
    • By Uglyside38
      I have a 1988 Quadrunner 250 2wd. My brother in law sold it to my son for $20...had been sitting outside for several years. Got it home and had it running in about 30 mins. Ran it a bit and then went to looking at the carb as it was having trouble idling. Was getting it pretty close, then started losing spark...Also, it wouldn't start up every time...only about 1 in 5 tries. Anyway...now, it has what I can only describe as "intermittent" spark. I can get 1 light spark right when the start button is pressed and sometimes one when it's released...but none while cranking. 🤷‍♂️

      I have replaced the spark plug, ignition coil/wire, and traced wires best I can. I noticed a couple frayed wires at the pickup coil where it enters the case. So, now I have the cover off, stator and pickup coil out and trying to test the coil. I do have about 114 ohms resistance for pickup best I can tell. And I can read minute voltage when I drag a magnet across it. Could it still be bad? Can a bad ignition switch/button cause this? (I did have the switch off to oil the choke cable)...pulling rope makes no difference though...any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!!! It's the intermittent part that's throwing me off! 

×
×
  • Create New...